Drift Motorsport

Meh, they should get their shit together. Multi Billion dollar tollway - and a $2 Indian IT system? Please.

Can be used for RB30/26 setups with an RB26 engine loom.

Going up on eBay as a buy it now. I will honor this price at $1199 delivered unless someone buys it on eBay.

I've owned and driven a few BMWs and Jap cars. E36 M3 - little rocket but the SMG box is a gimmick E46 330Ci - Great overall package - Nice 6 cylinder note and luxury Z4 3.0 - Zippy car, good for pulling looks / girls (if you into car broad minded persons) and its great with the top down. Performance wise its fun to drive but still slow. 530 E39 - One of the best BMWs Ive driven. Performance with luxury. A new M5 would just make my day! Jag TypeS - 6spd auto, boaty, no performance but a very very smooth ride. Jag make the best leather interiors out of Europe model cars! 180sx/S13 - absolute pov pack import. Good bang for buck - but certainly not that good to drive on the street if you deck it out with hard suspension R32 - Big setup up from the S13 range in terms of driver comfort and has a more refined feel R33 - Another step up on the R32 for comfort and drivability, but feels like a barge around corners R34 - Nimble as the R32 - but more refined than the R33 JZZ30 Soarer - Best compromise between Speed and Luxury. They are a bit boaty even in coil over form, but they hold the road really well and are just built so much better in every way than skylines are. I've cut skylines and soarers in half and the soarers just take so much longer because of their double boxed chassis rails and thicker pillers. The sound deadening combined with carpet is nearly 25mm thick. Soarer build quality in my opinion is greater than that of skylines, and rightfully so considering that they were worth as much as an R32 GTR when new. Disclaimer: I own 2x S13s, 1x R32 Skyline and 2x Soarers at the moment so im talking from experience. I would rather have a worked Soarer/Supra as a street car with heaps of go, than a rattly S13 that makes you get back cramps from driving it. On the track, Ide rather have a sklyine due to their unqiue suspension and 6 cylinder power. Each car as their purpose. Prestige is good for driving under the radar and being stuck in traffic. Imports are great to go fast, but really need to be streetable to be driven every day. I've driven track cars as dailys and it's not really worth it in the end. You cant drive the car to its potential and you're always scouting out for cops etc to avoid fines/defects. Buying a car to turn heads is a wank. Buy a car to enjoy / drive etc. The novelty of "looking cool" wears off as soon as you notice that no one really gives a shit! I have not driven an R35 yet - but I would suggest that this car has been built witih performance and prestige in mind - especially given they are asking M3 / Boxster S money for the car.

Thinking about it! hopefully the skyline will be done by then!

I'm keen on the practice day if the conversion is done in time!

I might be able to show up - depending on dinner reservations

The prototype is cool - however I like the actual car better. Much more smoother and flowing and 10.2s 1/4 mile factory! 9.95s on the 1/4 mile with some tweaks. 1001 PS engine (976 HP) - Not bad for an overgown beatle!

Eastlink should fix thier car database. I cant register online because I own imports. Last time I checked, there was no provision for a Soarer 91-00, Supra and Skylines. I cant even register the GSXR 1000 online either and you have to pay for bike usage (which is BS).

Can be cool or necessary depending on what you are doing it for. Drift, Track or just to tuck them in ever so slightly is OK in my opinion. It can also look pretty ghey..... Stretch the Canvas! FAIL EPIC FAIL Nice Vids: Strech a space saver on a rim using flames

Spend the money and use forged pistons that are suited to the deck height and compression requirements. Many mainstream piston manufactures have a rb30/26/25 piston off the shelf.

blitz.......... less crap talk and more pics and info on the setup and oil related issues. Trent, here's a picture to confirm the oil flow:

Thanks for your order buddy - Once payment has cleared your goods will be dispatched. They will fit with Stock Bushes no problem - Leaking, broken or otherwise. The increase in road noise is a bit of a myth. We have installed them and noticed no real difference road noise on various cars and setups. I will also email you some instructions for DIY install - It will take approx 20 mins on a hoist with a rattle gun and around 1hr at home on jack stands with hand tools and some patience.

GT Suspension near the City. Sounds like you may have aftermarket coil overs with stiff springs for the street OR stuffed standard shocks.

All PMs replied to, must go to pay for the new clutch

Engine life and power handling is all about tolerances - built it once, build it right.

rockabilly - can you post a dyno graph? very intersted in these larger turbos for an RB26/30 drag build.

I definatey want to run the MAP sensor as the primary load vs inj/ign on the motec. How are the D-Jetro MAP sensors setup and where are they located? If two map sensors are required, would one be running on the plenum and the other running after the turbo and then you would take an average value? A single throttle will solve this tuning issue, but im sure that there is a viable option to keep the multi throttle whilst running map sensors. The cams I would be running at the moment are around 264 duration or there about apexi units.

I'll be using a motec so tuning and 4d maps isnt an issue - however the easier it is to tune (ie: map as primary load vs fuel and ignition) the better the result and less dyno costs. What if I was to run a Map sensor in the factory GTR plenum with the 6 throttle bodies? Obviously this will be less than ideal - but it should be easier/better to tune than using TPS as a primary load. The problem with a TPS primary load on a turbo car is that the pressure will vary at every RPM and throttle opening. TPS is great for N/A engines because the air flow is roughly proportional to the throttle opening. TPS vs Boost vs RPM would be required and it would be very messy to tune and sort out. How do you guys run aftermarket management, with the stock throttle setup, using a MAP Sensor (ie: No AFM)?

Thanks for the input. What are the reasons behind the big single plenum and throttle body setups commonly found on modified GTRs?

What is your experience with individual GTR throttle bodies vs a big single / plenum setup such as hypertune 90mm setup? Engine is a RB26/30. The engine is mainly for drift/circuit so response is important. Two turbos will be used for different things. Big T51R turbo for drags and a smaller GT30/GT35 setup for circuit/drift. Cheers

When developing a high flow system for a soarer - EGT and Ex. Pressure were very important given the limitation of the turbos and the manifolds. We found that for every PSI we lost in the exhaust pressure - we could increase the boost by the same amount with no detonation and with a power increase. It was also noted that due to the system that we had on there, an increase in boost above 19.5psi (ie: 22psi) did not increase the power level. The exhaust manifold pressure and EGT were above acceptable limits. I have yet to power port the manifolds but I would suggest that a good level of porting should see the power increase when running 21spi. In addition, Exhaust Pressure and EGT is a good way to measure the engine health and condition during racing and dyno. If you have leaned it off too much and/or retarded the ignition - the EGT increase is the first parameter to increase. So - how can you measure the Pressure in your exhaust? - Simply tap into the collector or turbo area a flared fitting with 3-4mm copper tubing and run it into a boost gauge. I recommend winding a spring like coil of around 5 loops about 10-20cm away from the fitting to shed the heat from the exhaust gases that feed in the boost gauge. On an ECU such as a MoTeC, you can compensate for the exhaust pressure and temp by including it as another parameter in the maps. Short of knock control/compensation from MoTeC - this is a great way to monitor and prevent failure in demanding times on track / dyno.

Get a new short motor if you are looking to make big power out of it. Great place for cracks to start under High RPM and shear that counter weight off!

Will be on ebay at $1250 if it does not sell by the end of this week. I would prefer to sell it to a fellow SAU member

GTR-PWR - RWC period is 30 days. After this has expired - the RWC tester has no liability what so ever. If you got pulled over within the 30 days of the RWC - then you could claim that the car was not RWCed. Keep in mind that if it was a stealth type cat (looks like a cat, but no ceramic monolith inside) - the owner may have not known that it was a de-cat pipe. In addition, 99% of the RWC places do not remove a cat to see if it is real/working. Ensure that all emissions hoses, systems, tools etc are working and correctly fitted and you will pass. If you have aftemarket management such as a PowerFC, injectors, non-standard turbo etc - this will all be required to be returned to standard. Hiflow turbos can get away with testing because they lookthe same from the outside. The emissions test is done at idle and at a specific RPM / rev-range using an exhaust gas analyser. It takes about 30 mins. The guys will try to con you into saying that you had mods previous etc to get you in a trap to say that the car was modified. Stick to your guns and says that this is how I bought the vehicle and so forth.