silman

Reduced to $150

SOLD

Item: R33 Skyline RB25DET stock standard S1 Turbo ECU Location: Brisbane Reason for Selling: Running aftermarket now. Price and Payment Conditions: $175 Extra Info: From an Auto, but this should work on a manual?

On an R33 GTS-T 5speed manual, if the ecu is toast, can an auto ecu be used as a replacement?

SOLD

Price Reduction down to $250 for the pair! - Brand new.

Price reduction $175 - it's in perfect working condition. Cams - make an offer.

Item: Genuine 180SX Type X Indicators Location: Brisbane Item Condition: Brand new Price and Payment Conditions: $300 pickup, or will post with payment up front. Extra Info: I've got a pair of BRAND NEW Nissan 180SX Type-X genuine Indicators still in the factory boxes for sale with the genuine factory surrounds as pictured. These are pretty rare to find, especially when they're brand new. Perfect Condition - Never installed You can install this on either a genuine, or fibreglass bar. You could even install this on another type of car that does not incorporate indicator slots. Pictures: ..

Item: RB25DET AFM and Standard Cams Location: Brisbane Item Condition: These are in perfect working condition Reason for Selling: Just upgraded to a new Z32AFM and HKS Camshafts Price and Payment Conditions: AFM is $200 and Cams are $50 each. Can be bought seperately. Extra Info: Only removed due to upgrading to aftermarket parks, they work perfectly. I'm happy to send interstate with payment up front. Prices are Brisbane pickup only, shipping is whatever Australia post registered delivery with insurance charges. Pictures: ..

Some Cam Angle sensor's on RB's have the diamond star logo on them too. Not all of the parts in your engine bay are made by Nissan

What do you have your Defi BF Oil Pressure gauge set at for the warning siren? Is there a way to disable the warning siren going off when the key is set to the "on" position?. Since the oil pressure is reading 0, the siren of course goes off. It's not often that the key would be just left at that position, but it would be nice to disable it.

Try searching under hicas problems, but if that fails here's my suggestion for the pump itself. open up the pump and check the magnets inside, if you see any sign of wear inside the pump, then there is contamination somewhere in the entire power steering pump system. By changing pumps only you're actually causing the shavings to cycle through each pump you put on the car. You could have shavings, cycling from the steering rack, through to the pump. Whilst you are there, your pump may have some type of pressure switch setup, and it may not be working properly. From what I remember when i checked mine on an R33 and R34 pump, there was a spring and ball bearing type setup that you can get to, to see if that area is releasing freely.

I'd like to order a 180sx type x factory front bar lip extension, that only came on the 97-98 model. my local nissan dealer uses FAST to search for parts but state that it doesn't show past the 96 model. Is there a way you can get me the part number from FAST? All they could give me is RS13 960 section "air spoiler" and the 96 version of 9101-9608. Any help much appreciated.

As a comparison, RB25DET in my 180sx which still retains the air con condensor (no room for a clutch fan) Water Assistance = Nismo thermostat, twin SPAL 12" Thermo's, Koyo 53mm Radiator, Pivot Fan controller Oil Assistance = Greddy Oil Cooler. Retain the lower splash/air diversion plastic shielding - it works. Power FC water temp reading = 75 degrees Pivot Fan Controller water temp reading = 78 degrees (seperate sensor is within 5cm's of the factory water temp sensor) Defi Oil temp gauge shows 82 - 85 oil temp. Also you're in Brisbane like me, so half of the figures from members on this board are significantly different to ours due to the cooler conditions on average.

I've got the STR2CD 215mm plate twin plate clutch in my R33 gearbox. it is super noisy when you push the clutch pedal in to change gears. All the comments about it handling power and "you'll get use to it" are correct though. It's embarrasingly loud for a street setup :laughing-smiley-014: , easily audible over a loud'ish 3" exhaust system.

Why do people post such utter rubbish without knowing the laws? I have the QLD code of practice for light motor vehicles in front of me. It's as if you're posting what you think should be right, but "don't quote me as i haven't looked at the laws like, ever..." Considering this code of practice came into affect at least from 1993. Roll Cage = LH8 modification code You CAN have a 6 point roll cage that protects the front section of the car. It must be adjacent to the windscreen pillar - eg like safety21/cusco roll cages. (Section 1.1.1) You MUST have 19mm padded foaming around the entire roll cage (section 6.1) You CAN NOT have side intrusion bars incorporated into the roll cage. (Section 1.2.2) You DO NOT have to modify the seating capacity when a roll cage is installed and you ARE NOT required to remove the seats IF; (The roll cage does not obstruct or encroach upon the area that the passenger is seated - Section 1.2.1)

Yep I know, some seats have it as a lining too. Not surprised, with the grippy feel of it.

Looks like i've touched a nerve. It's not the look of the setup, it's the material I was referring too. The rubber you have seems to be one that is meant for a large sized hose, which has been cut down the middle, exposing the wire to parts of fuel I would suspect are not normally meant to. Not saying it's wrong, but it's not something I would want in my car. As for Neoprene, you should conduct a search in google under Neoprene and Fuel before you bag that "wetsuit material"

That's why everyone wants it right? p.s. you missed out the part where you'd like to close the valve when you are at the lights and the cops pull up behind/beside you Never mind so much though if you have a noisy twin plate

Whether you have a cat or not wouldn't make a difference, if you're wanting to know about positioning, you pretty much have to have it installed somewhere behind around the gear lever area, as the cable needs enough area to loop in a slow curved manner, instead of a sharp angle. If you drive with the valve closed then yes you have restriction, so no you can not build boost properly. With the foot flat to the floor with the gate closed, your acceleration speed is limited to about that of a 50cc scooter, even in 1st gear it is that slow. With the gate completely open, there is no difference to acceleration now, as to before having it installed.

Yeah I had a look at that picture, but that rubber looks a bit dodgy to me. I just went and purchased some rubber that will not break apart when it is in fuel, it's called Neoprene Rubber, and I purchased it from Clark's Rubber at Browns Plains, Brisbane. It costs $20 per meter x 15cm high by 4.5mm thick. It also comes in 3.9mm thickness for a bit cheaper. It feels similar to the silicon Intercooler pipe couplers, but it is not the same material. As a test, I put the tube of an old rubber tyre I had at home, in a small container of petrol to see what would happen to it. After 20 minutes the rubber expanded by about a 1/4 in size. I bent the rubber and it snapped in half. I also did a search on some other forums to find that people had tried whatever they could find around the house as a noise insulator for there in-tank pumps only to check it later and find it had all broken away I also placed the Neoprene Rubber in the petrol, and it did not expand, and it did not collapse when I bent it. More info on Neoprene's strength, noise and electrical isolation properties here - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Neoprene I only wanted 25cm's worth of the 4.9mm Neoprene rubber so it was only $5 *Edit* I have now installed the rubber around the in-tank pump, it is better done with 2 people. Make sure you sweep the entire area free of any dirt that might be in the boot. I also came to find that the o-ring wasn't seated properly hence why I could smell fuel vapour in the car at times. The prime is not as loud anymore, and I'd say sound has been reduced by about 25%. The pump is quieter inside, but still noisy outside. This is in a 180SX, it should be quieter again in a Skyline. I had to bend the pickup pipe slightly away as the 4.9mm rubber couldn't fit in between the backing plate and the pump otherwise.

Rubbish, I have one installed on my 3" exhaust with no boost issues whatsoever when set to fully open, they DO work and quieten up the exhaust a hell of a lot.

It won't be listed on there site, contact them via there email.

I got mine brand new through at www.perfectrun.com.au for $550 delivered in 3 working days. Nissan Brisbane wanted $880 and a 2 week turnaround time.

This is what my 276 Tomei pump looked like when I bought it last year, I had installed it in my RB25DET 180SX, and my mechanic rewired the power wire going to the pump from a boot mounted Optima D34 Yellow top battery reading 14volts. My setup goes from positive terminal of the battery in the boot through 12gauge wiring to an in line 20Amp fuse, to a 40amp horn relay as seen below. When turning the key from Accessories to the ON position, the pump makes a loud prime sound for a second, then goes quiet. That sound is loud enough for most people to turn around and wonder wtf that sound was :laughing-smiley-014: When the car is running I can hear the pump over the 3" exhaust easily, both inside and outside the car. Does anyone else with a Tomei pump experience this much noise? I've read of people saying they insulate the pump with rubber - but I assume this is just for external pumps. Is there something you can do with internal pumps to quieten the sound? .