battery

if you had your car tuned without VCT would you need a remap to get the full benefit after adding one of these controllers?

well consult works fine when i have the r32 ecu in but won't connect with the r33 ecu so im fairly sure i have a dud ECU. anyone in MELB got one?

hey im after an r33 ECU its going on a turbo manual S1 but S2 will work. preferably somewhere in melb cheers! PM ME

my 15 year old cousin came over and is like why don't you try the rb20 ECU and i said naa won't do shit but i did it anyway and it works no stalling, timing is way out of course and i won't drive it with the rb20 ecu. meh i think i might just go get the rb20 ecu remapped and look at some other way of controlling VCT later.... or maybe its possible the r33 ecu i have is stuffed.... don't have access to another one to test though. i did trace back those wires , 2 of them are for the knock sensors and 3 are ground the last one i can't seem to find.

yeh i used the r32 starter loom, i checked the 33 one for the other end of that plug but its not there, this could be because this side of the loom was modified. so it defiantly goes into the r33 starter motor loom? hmm

been mucking around with it abit more noticed i don't have the socket end of 6 pin plug circled here i have the 8 pin but only one half of the 6 pin which seems to run back into the main loom... anyone know what its for, ill trace it but im short on time at the moment. not my car it will never be so clean!! tried to get consult working, the thing power's up but cant connect to ecu. i have a sucking noise coming from the pod on idle i think this is normal but i didn't get it with the rb20. i get a bit of smoke on idle whiteish blue very fuel-ish smell. i also fitted up the r33 throttle cable and didn't need any modding like some have described.

yeh but it will stall even after revving it to 1500rpm and then backing off, there is no boost at 1500rpm. i do think it could have something to do with the vacuum/cooler pipe system though. as for boost control i have welded a nipple into the cooler pipe that comes off the turbo which runs to the boost controller then to the actuator this is correct? has anyone got a diagram or something of all the piping? i have a consult display but i haven't got consult wired yet, ill do this and then i can check for errors. i also have a spare afm i will try, im using an rb20 afm which im told works fine with a S1 r33.

hey guys im in the process of doing an rb25 conversion. basically i have got to the stage where i can start the car and with a few throttle pumps it will idle fine but as soon as the engine goes over 1500rpm and the pedal is let off it will stall, it revs up to 4k rpm fine(haven't tried to go higher but it most likely would) but will stall once you back off. im also getting a little bit of flutter which is strange cause im running the stock BOV, i am using the rb20 crossover pipe and BOV because the rb25 didn't come with one. i have adjusted the timing with a timing light to 15 degrees. i have done the majority of the wiring except engine light, water temp, wipers.... the engine was rebuilt 15000ks ago and has been sitting around on a stand for around a year. i have an exhaust leak between the dump and front pipe due to not having a gasket but i wouldn't expect this to cause the problem i am having im not %100 on the alignment of the timing belt as i didn't do it. is there wiring or something i could have missed that would cause this stalling?

hey guys need an r33 throttle/accelerator cable. preferably in Melbourne cheers. PM ME

thats a resistor and i think its for the fuel pump?

i need both front door trims and the center console thing with lid

mechanic's work way too hard for not enough money. be a plumber, electrician or carpenter.

got a front bar?

i got one of the tube ones with fake CF razo i think, junk anyway. i want a stock one can you buy them new anywhere?

sI or sII ECU or are they interchangeable?

what do u want for the engine package?

pics man

after an rb20 engine to replace the blown one i have in my 32. ill consider long motors or complete setups. must be in VIC. PM MEEEEEE

yeh i can do it no probs i have replaced engines before and i have seen engines go for $200 before but theres nothing out there right now!!! i gotta get it on the road soonish as its my daily and the bus sucks ass!! basically my preference is to swap the engine but since i can't find one cheap i wanna know how much it will cost to fix mine...

so im driving along full boost top of third lift off then heaps of smoke and no power, tow the thing home and found a milkshake had been made in my donk! the car is pretty ruff and im not really interested in spending bucket loads on it. its a stock rb20 pushing about 150kw no plans for anymore, its got 175000ks but could have 50000 more for all i know. ill have to do the timing belt and possibly the water pump, it blows smoke on startup so valve stem seals will need doing too? my question is what will all this cost? i can do the work myself but i got no idea what parts i will be needing. im thinking its gonna end up over 1k i had a quick look around for a replacement engine but they seem a little hard to find at the moment cheapest i can find is $1200ish any suggestions

so i have an r32 with an rb20 pushing about 150kw's i killed 3 rb20 boxes, the bearings in the center carrier plate failed in each one.... i decided to wack in an rb25 box, $1500 and alot of cursing later it was done and life was good but then i decided to take it for a longer drive and after 45 mins i get this clicking noise coming from somewhere under the car!!!!! the noise will only appear after a good 30-40mins of driving and it sounds nothing like the bearing noises i had with my rb20 boxes, it only appears when i have my foot on the go pedal its silent if im in gear and coasting. what takes 40 minutes to warm up surely the box would be warm after 10 mins of 100kmph?? i was thinking maybe a tailshaft issue either the center bearing or the uni's? the shaft was modified by a workshop and also balanced... i also got the shockproof shit in there which i think is all wank, the box is smooth as when its cold but slightly notchy when warm lol

depends on the year of the rb20 some use different size banjo bolts on the fluid lines

hahaha its amazing how you come to these conclusions!

sick life.

sold mate