LTHLRB

a friday night at calder is always cold man.. ill be running mine in jan.. with my radiator and oil cooler in.. but i need a set of front runners if im gona use propper slicks..

received my radiator cheers fatz.. my god they are light!

all good then

u'd rather let trents missus drive it haha jk jk

fastest MANUAL rb25 r33 is the creatd motorsports one set a few years back with a full rb25det setup, standard box and diff setup. ran something like 10.6 their new 4door is worth keeping an eye out for 11.5 @ 130mph

minors dont even need a rwc cert.. my brothers one had a minor for a parker globe and height.. so i jacked it up n put a globe.. right as rain

get yourself a set of new tyres.. also do you have coil overs? and how low was your car? just jack it up and put new tyres on ull pass no worries.. i did

bump... still for sale

are we limited to what tyres we can use?

slowly but surely.. robs finishing up on the turbo side, and i just baught the plenum.. hopefully around 300kw

goodluck with the sale trent this engine is a machine, same with athids engine. im sure your rb26 will be a monster aswell

plenum sold

you can buy a rebuild kit from racespec or horsepowerinabox.com for 3 - 4500 for a full bottem end.. id say a good rebuild will set you back 6 - 7 grand for a "bulletproof bottem end" but im talking forged or billet rods.. forged pistons.. or even steel rods.. machined crank, machined block etc so its a full race motor.. a standard build could be just pistons 1100 approx and bearings which are a few hundred, then just hone the block depending on how much thou over you need to go. so you have your options depending on how full your pockets are..

no, it will cost a fortune.. 450 pickup!!!!

sms sent

was mine in that batch?

hey fatz hows things going with the radiators?

snapping an easy out is a pretty big problem, as they are made of cobalt (stronger than high speed steel) so very hard to drill out.. i suggest ringing a pro

has everything gone thru fatz? how are they coming along, i dun hav the net so i cant pm or anything, sms me if you can bud

where do you live?

why not just run a pipe from ur front bar to ur air filter like i did with mine (old setup) its not about electricity its about the coolant corroding the metal, happens alot with fords that are old, split cores and rotted cores.

looks scattered haha.. Tony.. GT35R or a 3040R is the way to go

copper doesnt corrode, thats why ur pipes under ur house are made of copper.. these rads are alloy, they can corrode after a while as electrons pass through the rad having a bad reaction with the coolant.. so earth it, and it will last longer

works for me.. love the all out race look

also mines for a r33 gtst