R31 POWER

Any chance of pics of the Turbo? I know VLT's have the same wastegate in the dump stlye so tracking down a VLT dump pipe might be the go.Also I've seen a VG30det turbo and it had the same wastegate setup as normal RB's so maybe you even have a VLT???

Trent did mine last week and i'm very happy with his price,quality and service.I got the endurance tint in legal darkness,very happy with it.

Is it actaully getting hot or is just the dash gauge saying so?reason I ask is if you have kept the RB20det water temp sensor it might read wrong with the S14 dash.I did the same with the RB20det in my silo,I put the R31 water temp sensor in the RB20det. Hope it helps.

Maybe bleed the clutch?I noticed after i blew my gearbox up and put a RB30e one in (just for now) that the pedal feel is lighter???

When you say it fits R32/R33/S14/S13 does it come with a bigger nylon bit at the bottom of the stick to suit a RB25det box?

From memory the left box is a MX7 from a VLT but still looks the same really. I just weighed my R33 RB25det box with yoke and clutch fork and it came to 61kg's.If I had my RB20det box here I could of weighed that also.

Try this mod.When we were fitting the RB20 motor into the Silo the chain holding the motor was resting on the top of the bov wich crushed the side abit. Comparing with a mates other RB20 bov we found out that my bov had alot more spring tension and it was hard to push the piston.So maybe bash the top to give it more tension

I don't know how you can be that pataint Jeol I'd crack after hrs

No more power for me until I get a new G-box

Do tell us where you got it from

I drained the oil and there are 3 teeth and bits of metal so it's ****ed

Thanks fo the reply SteveL.I have a spare RB20det box so it may have to go in then.I will check the drain plug magnet tomorrow.

Ok long story Was driving normal (I know it's hard to beleive) down my street and went to put it into forth and the clutch went straight to the floor so I popped in into nuetral and rolled down my street and up my driveway. I jacked it up and noticed the rod coming from the slave cylinder was fully out and upon closer inspection i noited the pivoit ball that the clutch fork piviots on had sheared in half. SO we pulled the box out and put a new pivoit ball in,puit g-box in and the pedal was not as heavy as before.Mmmm but it still charred thru second and was fine except a crunch into second when i slammed it into gear hard.it had never crunched that bad before. Ok morning after I'm on my way to work and I romped it thru second and it started knocking/clunking from the gearbox bad.I stopped to look underneath but can't see fark all so I try and get it into second and it just keeps on crunching.I finally got it into first but it wont go into second but goes into third and forth. So i'm idling it along in forth home and it's knocking the whole way. I noticed today after work that with the clutch pushed in and in nuetral there is no noise but as soon as I take my foot off the clutch it knocking bad. What do you guys think it is?Input shaft

I got my hose for the BOV return at a truck place that sells air filters and crap.Just bring the bit into a shop and match it up.

Good way to as I have done the same except with a HKS GT2535. There is a thread with lots of info on how to install GTR injectors on the RB20det(will find thread after work) It would be best to get a decent clutch I drove around with the PFC,GTR injectors,Z32 AFM and the GT2535 for a week before it was tuned.I did'nt really get it on boost and took it easy.One thing you need to do is get into the INJ menu and put the injector % down.I will post more after I get home from work

Do you mean just the pedal and the bracket it bolts to? if so I have one also.

Since the R31 forums are down I will post here I installed Koni's into the rear the other week and it made the ride so stiff.Yesterday i put the fronts in and they are Z31 inserts(yellow not red) put in mport R31 struts with Oz r31 tops. These are adjustable from the top by turning the knob and make it go from stiff to rock hard stiff .It feels like a race car on the roads and goes around corners like a demon.

Yep I have the complete cable and lever,hows $10 sound? and you pay postage. The rack I guess is fine since the front cut had no front/side damage.It might cost alot to send it over east thou. I'll try and get pics tomorrow. *Edit pics* here's the bonnet cable http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/r31power/R...net%20cable.jpg

Geez mine is a fat beast then weighing in at a big 1440kg's with chromes and RB20det.I might get it checked agian!

Cooler piping and wiring is the hardest.We had the RB20det fitted in my Silo in under a few hours.It was just like taking the RB30e out and putting it back in minus some little bits.

What front end bits do you need ocean? I have a whole swag of front end bits from a R32 GTS-t that i'm willing to donate for your GTR.One problem is i'm over in W.A so there will be freight etc.PM me what you need and I'll see if I can help.

I don't normally post in threads that have turned into a shit fight in them but meh why not. What race cars are we talking about? I guess the ones that don't are taking the "Keep It Simple Stupid" approach,one less thing to go wrong. As stated before and is widely known that if you change gears very quick the BOV does'nt have time to open.So how quick do race car drivers change gears? I bet not slow so no need for one then. And emmisions you keep saying,surely uncombusted air has no danger to the atmosphere in anyway.I know the oil vapours would be mixed in that air but I don't see it being that bad and if there's to much oil well then you have a prob.I know what air I would rather breathe from a automobile and it would'nt be from the exhaust. And as for the Greddy BOV the thread on top allows you to limit the amount of travel of the valve inside the BOV.So screwing it right in stops the slide all together thus keeping it closed.

Same as Roy I to fully shut(Greddy type S can be closed shut by that thread on top)my BOV to see what the sound would be like.Yes it fluttered it's tit's off and when nailing it and reaching for another gear it felt doughy/jerks and did'nt feel right when in the start of the other gear on boost.So it might not give power but better driveabilty is what it does.

Bump

Check cooler pipe clamps and maybe the hoses themselves.