BOOSTD

opps my bad, not sure either if it is flamble....

hehe, it's perfectly normal if it's happening under light -medium load. It's called closed loop operation. The ECU constanly monitors the Air fuel ratio through the oxygen sensor and varys the mixtures between rich-lean every second or so. It is not noticeable under light load and achieves much better fuel consumption and also keeps the cat converter at a operating temperature.

I think the idea of cooling the intercooler is fantastic. Is there a cheaper gas than NOS that works just as well and isn't flamable...?

Robo: On the Dyno the fuel supply was fine , however I found on on road testing if I kept my foot into it through the first three gears it was start running out of fuel. On the dyno the car is only ramped in fourth and so the issue wasn't apparent. 4th and 5th had a noticable difference. Have you noticed if you just sit in say third then dump it it feels faster than getting to third after thrashing 1st and 2nd.... (keeping in mind constant intercooler temps)

Cheers Benm, Thanks for the kind words guys Robo: I was on the same mental track as you. Pulled the turbo off to reviel a stock unit. Just goes to show what they can do. I found strangly enough installing a new fuel pump made the most difference power(044) .....may be the key. It was last dynoed @ 218rwkw@ 15psi before the run. I did however run octane booster and dial in an extra 2 degrees advance for the night. My 2.2 was due to severe axle tramp. I have since installed solid bushes and am now running 18" 255 Nitto Extreme ZR Tyres. Bigcarl: I was running 17" 255 @ 18psi Bridgestone Regano's (jap)

Big carl: I ran a 12.90 with a 2.2 60' with the standard turbo @15psi. FMIC, twin plate, power FC, octane booster, 044 pump,zorst and filter. =)

Fills the oil can in a week......hmmn sounds all to familiar. I found my can was filling up when the first ring lan went, then the upper and lower both went and it started blowing smoke. Also have had issues when the oil catch can filter gets blocked causing pressure in the Valve cover and sump. My can filled up alot quicker then aswell....with no engine problems evident at that stage.

Thanks sidewaymambo: some good info coming thick and fast Franks: I like to be kept in the loop to, after all it is your car.

Could you pm me his details pls franks, sounds good how long was spent tuning? In other words what do you get for $300

Kewl so we have UAS CRD anyone else?

I was a beleiver in "u get what you pay for " to ,but, myself and a dozen others from Adelaide have had issues with a certain shop who has charged for five hours work only to really spend an hour and a half. To make matters worse there have been issues with overly advanced mapping causing detonation and even cracked ring lans. I had my car tuned and rang back fifteen mintues later because it was detonating at 5000rpm. i was told not to come back in as they didn't have time to re-map. "Just turn the cam sensor back a little, it won't hurt any power they said" The best tuner I had didn't even work at a dyno equipped shop and charged half as much.(hired dyno time). I have seen countless people throw good money away from not knowing any better. Having rebuilt my own engine, nothing p's me off more to be feed :bs!: to part with ur hard earned cash. I have also heard CRD are very good.

Hey everyone, as most of you know I am new to Sydney. My car is in dire need of a tune as it is still running the base Apexi program since rebuild. I was interested in peoples experiences with the different tunning shops Sydney has to offer. I have booked in at UAS for a mixture check ,but, have been put back by the $80 fee(some $30) more than Adelaide, and more expensive doesn't always mean better. I previouly did most of my tuning my self with a wide band sensor and meter. I don't know if any of the shops here are as trusting in adelaide and would lend one out. Sure does save alot of money(6 hours of my own road time and half an hour on the dyno). I think the end result comes out alot better as part throttle mapping can only be done properly on the road.

free bump, haven't tried "irodium" plugs before are the enviromently friendly =)

so sweet. I am running 8.7 CR will be interesting to see how it goes on BP 98.

Go the Hybrid's ! Was that number made on BP98 matty? My last tune as was with a fair dose of octane booster and some aggressive tuning. Nice to make that much more power with a piece of mind to go along with it.

Hey Troy, Sydney is all good except when I get lost which is quite often atm. doh ! You know me....can't stop tinkerin =)

Hey Steve, sorry no dyno as yet. Soon I promise.

No probs at all b-man. sounds like every day will be a wet day for you to soon =)

Sorry, I mean increases time (slower). didn't realise the other post worked...doh

Very good point, something I also need to look at. Greenline do a intake kit from Apexi which looks awesome, but, includes the filter and cost around $500

sounds complicated :confused:

That over taking manouver was pretty crazy! Geoff and I just went....holy Crap. Looked pretty close from our perspective. We kept getting wheel spin in 4th if I kept my foot into it after 5500rpm....so I short shifted to avoid any side window driving...hehe

Just have a look at a stock R33 turbo, the groove is exactly the same. Maybe your boost drop is from your waste gate actuator. Mine also did that before I installed a HKS actuator.

The turbo has been re-installed with the groove in the inlet snout. Surge is absolutely non existant in any gear at any boost. The groove was copied from the standard R33 turbo. 3mm deep, 3mm past the compressor blade and 1cm wide.

Thanks B-man, Merli: Had a great night- will have to check out Palm Beach during the day next time. I didn't realise we were driving along the water front until we arrived at the "Summer Bay Car park" I'll be up for the show and shine.......have to get some elbow grease into the black paint. =)