No Crust Racing

When I bought mine it had a bad earth to the CAS and needed an Oxygen sensor. My approach to buying cars is pump the seller with questions, if he/she doesn't give up the info - why not? If after pumping them for as much info as possible you still like the sound of the car - go inspect it yourself. Take a pen and paper, write down EVERYTHING you notice is wrong. If you were told it's in good condition and it's not then walk. If the car passes your personal inspection (in which you analysed the car like crazy and test drove it extensively) Then it's time for a professional inspection comp/leak down test - as to who pays you can work that out with the seller. Once you hav ethe results of the pre-purchase inspection comp/leakdown tests you can negotiate a price. Never be afraid to walk away, there's a lot of Skylines for sale and heaps of crap ones. Be picky! Good luck and let us know if you buy one =D

U'r lucky this is SAU and I'm not an admin here I meant that people have replaced seals and then the car has done a Turbo shortly after.

I'm having trouble finding a good pic of the bonnet.

Kushil - My Series II only had POD (enclosed, cold air feed and heat shielding foam) Turbo back exhaust and the factory dual stage boost bypassed so it would run 7psi all the time. At a guess, the car would've made 140-145rwkw's? It had Bilstien Shocks, King Springs, 265 rubber (rears 235 front) and a strut brace so it was fun to drive having come from an NA FWD Celica. The R makes my Series II feel like a stock NA silvia. The power and handling is not comparable. I friend of mine who drives a fairly modded 185awkw WRX explained that he didn't want to race me on the strip or track after going for a ride in it. I was under the impression that moving into a GTR would just be a heavier, slightly better handling and more powerful Skyline but the difference between the two cars is much bigger than that. Drive one and you'll understand better, good luck on your purchase! NB: To be fair, the R has more mods than my last car by the way.

Mmmm, The target would be 280-300rwkw's and have it be as streetable as possible. I'm keen on an oil relocation kit as well, a vented bonnet would be nice for engine bay temps (not rice). Some 18's would be nice too but I kind of like the Volk LE37's it has on it, shame they're 17's though. For now just enjoy it =D

Ahh, OK yeah it is hot as =D I'm just looking for some subtle venting to get rid of heat without attracting too much attention or trying to look like a wannabe.

The search engine on this forum is easily good enough to dig up answers to your questions (which hvae been covered many many times before) I tend to use the search field at the bottom of a specific forum and construct search terms like so +r33 +common +fault* (the star covers fault, faults and faulty) If you can afford series II (96 onwards) I'd go for that. Remember that as with any car (especially turbo or just performance) a professional inspection, compression test and leak down test are recommended. Good luck!

Hah, yeah I'm a bit intrigued myself actually but at the same time don't really wanna play around for risk of damaging them - have read about people changing a turbo seal and then having one let go 0_0 Side Bar: WTF is with your avatar... is that f#$king Power Rangers? Yes I bloody watched it as a kid =D

Ronin: Got pics? Was it hard to do? Rockabilly: That's a bit more serious than I was thinking but thanks for the pics (looks great by the way). Trying not to attract too much attention from the local PD

They couldn't look any better in my opinion, they're direct bolt in's nothing has been modified that I can see around the lights. AFAIK all GTR's have the same bonnet/light shapes. Just need some blue parkers to match, the standard ones clash horribly with the Xenons

After having fixed a dry solder joint in my AFM tonight(Most likely from the heat I'm about to talk about) I noted that the engine bay gets damn hot and stays hot for a long time (Series II R33 GTR). With this in mind I'm wondering if anyone has endevoured to vent the bonnet or purchase a vented bonnet with the aim of reducing engine bay temps and hopefully prolong component life. I'm not looking for huge rice vents, just options on something practical. What are peopls thoughts on this idea, do you run the risk of allowing rain/debris/dust/dirt etc into the engine bay in larger than normal amounts, is there a real temp drop as a result, what have people done if they've pursued this idea (pics would be great too). Thanks all

I still stand by my call to get it into a reputable mechanic and then let us all know what the story is

I was told that you could option them on Series II, they're genuine Nissan items is all I can tell you and they look sexy ^_^

Just thought I'd make a quick post about my new baby, been talking about it on here but haven't posted pics. These aren't great, will get some nice sunshine ones soon but this gives you an idea. Allow me to introduce my 1996 Series II R33 GTR V-Spec in Midnight Purple! It's got various mods but the specifics will remain undisclosed as I'm not into blurting it all out on a public forum. I've come from a Series II GTS25T with a Turbo back exhaust to this so it's a fair step up. Only had the last one, some of you may remember it - Bright Red with Deep Dish Impuls, for a bit over a year but this was up for sale and I couldn't say no. Hope you all like!

After spending some time finding a faulty AFM I'm not back to fluids (put some new IRITOP's in it so plugs are done). I've got some Fuch's SuperSyn 5w-40 to go in this weekend but would also like to do both the diff's, how much do they take and what are people using? Cheers

Pulled the AFM tonight and sure enough, dry solder on the AFM plug pins, followed the tutorial on repairing the AFM, car drives like new again. After I was happy that it was fixed we also put in some new IRITOP's, so all running sweet. Thanks everyone for all your help!

Let us know how you go =)

The issue of safe boost level on stock ceramic GTR turbo's is a contentious one. Many people have safely run about a bar with no issues, many others have reported turbo failures and in some cases engine damage from ceramic dust being ingested. The decision is yours but be warned that pushing the ceramic turbo's WILL reduce their life and increase the risk of failure as does pushing any component harder.

I'd be getting a second opinion before you start ripping it apart. Try to find a reputable tuner/mechanic with Import/GTR experience. Explain the situation to him so he can inspect the wastegates and go from there. Good luck, let us know how you go

Did you install the PowerFC? Are you sure there's not a boost control module for the PFC installed somewhere? It does sound like he's doing something wrong though, you should be able to vary boost by 'some' amount if it's on the right line. I've not fitted a controller to my GTR (only had it a week) but on my Series II GTS25T it was installed on the vacuum line between the Intercooler pipe work and the Wastegate actuator. Make sure it's installed the right way too, if it's not it will boost all over the place and you'll be picking up RB26 pieces =\

Just got the call then and the AutoElec is confident the AFM is at fault as it's giving error codes which confirms my suspicions. I've having him give the wiring into the AFM a once over but otherwise will be trying the AFM repair tutorial listed on here tonight and seeing how we go (also sourcing another AFM just incase it can't be repaired) Received my IRITOP's today also so they can go in as well. Let you all know how I go later.

New Igniters are worth crazy dollars, check the for sale section, pay attention to cars being wrecked. I'd advise trying one from a mates car if possible first. I thought I had a bad one and tested another module it to find it was not the issue. Good luck.

A stuck wastegate will stop you running higher boost for sure but if your mechanic/tuner can't ascertain the nature of the fault then you might want to consider taking it somewhere else. A good mechanic/tuner is worth his/her weight in gold, especially when talking boost. Have you ever been able to run more than 9? Does it have a stock computer (My 33 GTR has the stock boost restrictor in place but was running 13psi - found it had an aftermarket computer). 2nd opinion can never hurt, try to find someone who knows Imports and particularly GTR's.

Certainly sounds like the stock clutch is slipping under load. There's a group buy on here from C & B who does Exedy HD kits, I bought one but never fitted it before I sold the car but the price and service was excellent and would suit your application. It's important to confirm that this is the case though before you go throwing money at it, when it's revving away is it actually moving any faster or is it simply revving a lot but not making much more forward momentum? So if you're doing say 50 in second and plant it does it simply rev up but not add much speed? This would indicate a failing clutch. Good luck.

LoL, you guys are nuts, *unsubscribe* =D