No Crust Racing

Tacho just starts dropping as if the engine has stalled then fires a few more times so if I was at say 3k rpm I'd get nothing from the engine for another 2k rpm then it would fire a few more times etc. If I clutch in and let it try and idle it'll bounce between like 20 and 1100rpm lik it only just fires in time to keep the engine running. It's not a hunt though like the famous AAC Valve issue on GTS25T's it simply just doesn't fire. Any idea what an ignition module is worth?

The Impul unit does not have diagnostic LED's on it at all =\ I took it apart completely and took some photos of the EPROM if that's of any use.

Just found the document I had on ECU diag mode but I have an Impul Chipped ECU, I'll try it and see what happens 0_0

I've done that on my old 33 but not sure how to do it on this car.

Well the plot thickens with this car... Driving today and it started misfiring and losing mass power, not just misfiring on one cylinder but totally dropping 1-2k rpm before giving me a few more splutters then dropping power again. Nursed it home (problems seem related to heat/load). At this point I was thinking bad plugs/coil pack(s) or fuel pump perhaps. Got home let it cool down and and removed the coil cover and found that the car has Split Fire coils and NGK Iriway plugs, plugs seemed in good condition, no carbon build up, nothing cracked/broken etc etc. So Im thinking, could it be the ignition module (Took this out of the car and cooled it down and drove again with no issues til everything was hot again) Or something timing related? (whatever it is related to heat/load for sure) or as mentioned, a fuel pump issue? Here's some pics to help.

I've opened another thread specifically related to the boost issue. Any assistance re the LSD fluid choice and capacity would be great though. Cheers

I've gotta find out where the closest 4wd dyno is and go from there. It's definitely reading 7 on the stock gauge, I wanted a pillar mounted gauge anyway so I'll get onto that as well. I'm waiting on some info back regarding my options with the Impul stuff. It might be valid to note that the car has an after market core, not sure what it is until I get under and have a look but hopefully it's keeping the turbo's cooler.

Big round of applause, top job guys =D

The restrictor is definitely in the line, I've checked it myself. 700mmHg = ~13.5psi that's up around what people claim is the max safe limit for the car, with this in mind and the fact it has that Impul thing in it, I doubt it's stock. Can anyone tell me anything about the computer? Also, could it be controlling the boost? Surely there'd be a module or something somewhere? I think I'll put the car on a dyno and get some more info on what it's doing too but next weekend, this weekend/week is all about servicing and fluids etc.

OK the plot thickens, I just thought to myself, I'll reset the ECU and see if that helps, in doing so thought I'd check it to make sure it was stock... guess what... It Reads Impul HI_POWER CONTROL UNIT then SGTR-1133 Wonder if that is controlling my boost?

This question is not getting answered in another thread and I'm not able to find definitive answers. I just recently bought a 33GTR and noted that on full boost it's sitting on 7 on the stock gauge, which as far as I know is around 13.4-13.6psi. I thought stock GTR's were supposed to run 9psi? Which would be about 3/4's on the gauge? Here's a pic showing the boost solenoid, note that the stock restrictor is still in place inside that hose with the yellow mark on it. The only other thing I could find of note was the earthing cable shown which leads up into the back of the spark plug cover so presumably doing something for the coils. I note that the silver box beneath the boost solenoid has JECS written on it, is this stock? It's connected to the solenoid and into the fuse box. Ideas would be greatly appreciated as I'm not comfortable with that level of boost on Ceramic turbo's especially in this hot weather. Cheers

Cheers mate will do once I've got some good ones this weekend. Still keen to hear back about my boost and LSD oil questions...

LoL, OK OK here's two of the originals, not taken at my place and not cleaned by me (There's not even any tyre shine on it!!) I'll have pics this weekend after I give it some ActionDan car wash love and take some nice pics in the sun. Still waiting on responses to boost and LSD fluid questions plz! Cheers

Any info on LSD oil guys? I've noticed, that on full boost the stock boost guage gets pretty close to 7, if not actually on 7, I was under the impression that would be about 13.5psi... but I also though stock was 9psi.. I took a quick look at the hose going into the boost solenoid and it still feels like it has the restrictor where the yellow line is. So firstly, 7 seems high right? Secondly, stock is 9psi? Thoughts?

I was using Fuchs SuperSyn in my last Skyline, it's 5-40w full synthetic I think but it's not cheap at around $75 for 5L Atm all I have are the classified pics and they don't do the car justice so I'll take some this weekend =D

I've posed these questions to UAS also, this is the response. -Are standard NGK copper plugs fine if I’m planning on changing them with the oil every 5,000k’s? - Yes OK although Nissan Platinum and NGK Iridium are better. -Is the standard 7.5-30w Nissan Oil fine for a car with an air filter and turbo back exhaust? Odometer reads 35xxx - 10w 40 or 50 weight for bigger hp and for racing. -Same goes for the fuel filter, is the standard Nissan one a good enough choice? - We use Bosch fuel filter. -What fluid is best to use in the LSD’s? The gearbox already has Redline Lightweight Shockproof in it, mine is a V-Spec model so has the Active LSD in the rear. -Redline synthetic cant’ remember the exact type off hand need to check with our mechs. - Since I don't have big HP is a 50w oil a bit over the top and how much is the mobile 1 stuff mentioned? - At almost $20 a plug for the nissan platinums and similar value for the NGK iridiums they don't seem to represent great value, my previous skyline had them and after 13,000k's they showed fairly standard signs of deterioration - what should expect to get from them? - Any object to using a bosch/ryco fuel filter? - Anyone have further info regarding the diff oils?

Got a few maintenance style questions now... -Is the Nissan 7.5-30w oil sufficient for a car that's basically stock other than a turbo back exhaust and an air filter? - Does anyone have a problem with the standard Nissan Fuel Filter? - What fluid are people using in the Diff's (mine is a V-Spec so Active LSD if that matters) Box has just had redline put in it so not worried about that ATM. - Are standard copper NGK's (as listed on the website) sufficient if I'm happy to change them with the oil every 5,000k's? I read that some people gap them to .8 regardless of mods level. Anything else I should be thinking of doin in my first fluid flush/inspection etc beyond (odometer reads 35xxxk's) - Air, Oil and Fuel Filter - Engine, Diff, Brake/Clutch/Power Steer Fluid/Oil Check Replacement? Cheers Quick Edit: What is used in the transfer case?

Well the banks are a pack of useless.... you get me... I finally collected the car and had no issues bringing it home from Melbourne (bout 3.5hrs from me). Will get some pics up soon!

This Fri/Sat is the pickup day depending on how quick the banks move with cheques (gotta cash the one for my car then get the other cheque for the R) I'll put up pics n so forth when I get it. 3 cars worth of mates are coming down road trip style to get it, lol.

WOW so with these I could safely run 14-16psi quite happily with the right support systems. 300 would be the most I'd ever go for, the bottom end is good for that right?

No idea why, you'd have to ask them What power are these turbo's good for?

I thought wet was only done if there was reason for concern? If not then I'd say they;'re slack. I'm buying the car so we'll know soon enough how healthy it is =D What does he rebuild them to? steel wheel, ball bearing? what power are they good for etc. for $1400 I couldn't see them being ballbearing?

2nd comp test was done this morning at another mechanic, car rated between 145 and 148 across all six standard dry test. Mechanic rates the car as being in excellent condition all round. I'm gonna buy it =D Any more info on those rebuilt turbo's from Slide?

Spoke with the tester and explained what figures the car should have got and so forth, he's convinced his tester is busted and he noted 'If that's what a worn RB26DETT feels like then a new one must be like a boeing 747, it's simply too smooth and too strong to be a worn out engine. I'll calibrate my tester" etc etc. That sounds like what I was thinking myself.

I've spoken to a few mechanics now regarding this and everyone says that if it was making those figures it would not even run properly let alone make the power I felt when I drove it. I think we can safely say the tester/equipment is not 100%. What's a leakdown test cost and where's a good place to get one near Mt Waverly?