No Crust Racing

I'm most likely about to purchase a 96 V-Spec and was considering custom plates with BCNR33 but have also seen BNR33 used in reference to 33 GTR's, which one is actually right? for the money I don't wanna stuff fit up =D I read in another thread that 96's Series II's didn't have Xenons but this car clearly has them... Anyone confirm or deny Xenon's in Series II V-Spec's? Cheers

I'm currently looking at a 96 model 33 GTR V-spec and it has Xenons (listed as factory in the sale info), am I to believe that these are not genuine? The pictures certainly show Xenons. Back to the topic, My understanding of main V-Spec differences were, ATTESA E-TS PRO 10mm lower and firmer suspension Active LSD LSD and ATTESA Pro combine to allow torque split left and right as well as front to back ike a standard GTR. It seems to be a big debate about it's merit.

That's not what I wanted to hear! Surely someone knows or has the instructions for it. I fudged it last time but have spent at least 2hrs stuffing around with it this time with no success.

I've managed to shut the start up tune off by holding down the Power button for a few seconds, but when I hold down the Select button and go to the Snd menu I can't work out how to stop it playing the end tune. I get n 1 (through to n x depending on how many tunes I lock in) PLY which plays the tunes you've locked in and Ent which I have nfi =D You'd think SND = Off would be it but that only changes the startup tune.

Thanks for the PDF, I've already had a read of that and it doesn't apply to my model.

C'mon guys help me out

I've had this timer for a while, bought it second hand so don't have and can't find complete instructions. I can stop it playing sounds when it starts up but can't stop it playing sounds when it counts down (recently had battery disconnected for a while to do some other work so the TT got reset). If someone has this time and knows how to stop it playing music on countdown please let me know before I put a screwdriver through it. Cheers

Interested to hear more on this 're-bedding business....

I'm with Shannons and highly recommend them. I've also had my contact get in touch with my mates and help them out too. Bottom line, get in touch with them and speak with them but bare in mind 18yr olds are going to have high premiums no matter what. Good luck.

*Drool*

Is this device like an SAFC or is it a cut down version with far less range of tuning? The Field AFC that is sorry Cheers

I'm after the factory Skyline rear strut brace that's visible in the boot, got it? Mine doesn't have it for some reason 0_0

DR 33 GT: As not to jack the thread I've PM'd you the pics instead as they're not rim related

That is DEAD sexy

Contact Tempe Tyres and ask them, too easy. As a set they're about 1800 new with skinny tyres but deep dish. Good luck.

In that case I might just buy one and if I don't use it I'll sell it off - then again, I might as well just fit it if I have it and make sure that it all gets done on the weekend and that everything has been replaced, ideally It shouldn't take more than a day I don't think but yeah as I said being a daily I need it mobile ASAP. Plus I don't really want to pull it apart more than once. Are there any special instructions with bedding the new clutch in or any special adjustments that need to be made anywhere, like the pedal box for example? The clutch is an Exedy HD Organic.

Thanks heaps for the info, greatly appreciated. I've heard that people replace the pivot ball which if I understand correctly operates against the selector fork? Cheers

I've had a bit of a search but with no success (is it just me or does the does the SAU search need some love?) Anyway, I'm in the process of acquiring a new clutch, mine slips if I try and pull a burnout after a 1/4 or two and I'd just like to replace it and know that it's done for safety. My car only has a cat back at the moment but the plan is to eventually aim for around basic 180-200rwkw mark that most people go for with standard bolt on bits. With this in mind I'm looking at the Exedy Kit on in the group buy section which is apparently good for 240rwkw's. That's all well and good but what else do I need to do when replacing the clutch as I'll be doing this myself (with professional assistance of course) I know I'll need to machine the fly wheel, what's that cost? I know I'll need a spriggot bush (sourced that from UAS for $25) but what else do I need and does someone have a tutorial on the process? I'm trying to get as much info now as my car is a daily and I need it for work so ideally this would be all done over a weekend and right to go on Monday. So my questions are.. -What parts do I require beyond a clutch kit (kit includes clutch plate, pressure plate and thrust bearing as I understand), spriggot bush and having the flywheel machine? -Does someone have a tutorial for this process (As mentioned for a Series 2 33) -Any other useful information much appreciated - like anything special I should know about what clutch fluid to use etc etc -When replacing a clutch do I have to replace my box fluid? (it's only 3mths old and it's redline lightweight shock proof so cost me a few bucks). For reference the car will sometimes grin a bit going into gear at high revs under full load, I'm hoping this is the clutch slipping a little but I know it could also be the synchro's wearing out and a clutch is a much cheaper option than rebuilding a box Cheers Guys ***Quick Edit*** We already have a clutch aligning tool

Here ya go =) Starcorp Racing Impuls, Deep Dish Pack - Not bad for a very cheap set of rims. Fronts: 18x8.5" - 235's Rears: 18x 9.5" - 265's <-- Just! Car now has Cat Back too so the twins are gone and were replaced by a nice fat angled Cannon =D

Tried cleaning the TPS plugs and contacts, no change. I'm leaning toiwards thinking it may be a vacuum issue, easiest way to tell? Go to hose joins and spray with brake cleaner?

I'll try cleaning the TPS contacts, I have some cleaner handy - Cheers for the tip, interested to here more info on the vacuum leak idea.

Ok, well here's a pic showing the clutch fluid reservoir, doesn't appear to be a booster in the same way that the brakes have one. Or am I looking in the wrong spot?

I've had the ECU out before and it 'seemed' normal but I couldn't honestly say if it was right or not, the problem is intermittent thoguh so if it was ECU I doubt it would be behaving this way. As for the clutch booster, how di I tell.

No idea sorry =\

It's been intermittent since I've had the car and I've tried the things above that I mentioned and haven't really gotten far besides when I cleaned the AAC valve which seemed to stop the hunt issue. The hunt comes and goes but the idle jump on engaging the clutch and putting it into gear when approaching an interesection is pretty consistent.