No Crust Racing

It was just at an Ultra Tune in Richmond - I'm in Wodonga bout 3hrs away. I had my GTS25T inspected at a different Ultra Tune (Coburg) and it didn't get more than 120 across any cylinder and has been an excellent car in the time I've owned it, no oil usage no blow by no smoke etc. Maybe Ultra Tune just suck or have crap gear =\ What's a leakdown test worth and where's a good place to get one done in or around Mt Waverly?

LoL - Wish I had your decision making prowess =D

Hah, we're talking some serious bucks for the car and I'd hate to buy it only to have it fail on me in some serious way in the near future, I know all engines will eventually wear out etc etc but it's hard when the main thing I wanted from today was some good compression figures and it doesn't seem like I got them, either because the engine is failing or because the tester/guage was stuffed. In my mind the figures do not match the performance given ~128psi is the lowest limit for RB26DETT compression, and that's for a worn/tired engine, this felt to be neither.

No he didn't do a wet test and I agree with you, a few other threads have said that if the compression is THAT low the car would be making sfa power and this car was an CRAP load faster than my car and felt tighter through the revs with smooth power all the way. I can only assume the guage/tested was stuffed/stupid but I think it's a reasonable sign that the figures are all pretty close. If the engine is anything ike the rest of the car, it shold be immaculate more or less. Now I have to decide if I want to take the risk =\

OK Just got the call. The guy explained that comp came out as 100, 90, 90, 100, 90 90 (Dry test). Which based on what you guys have said is CRAZY low. The mechanic explained that this sounds right to him given the car is a twin turbo and will run low compression but geez that seems low. He feels the K's are genuine, and that the car is in excellent condition all round making smooth power throughout the rev range and with nothing to report as far as mechanics go. He did note some small corrosion on the metal fuel tank shield underneath and also fingernail size spot in the gap between the front guard and the windscreen - so looking down the windscreen to where the front guard overlaps there, surface only though. He explained that the car does not appear to have been crashed/painted or had body panels removed and that in his opinion appears to be an excellent and genuine vehicle. The compression has me concerned, do Nissan have specs on this stuff? Another opinion would be good. Mechanic said test was done with an open throttle too if that helps. If it helps I could not detect any smoke under revs or load when testing the car myself, not while driving or stopped. I'm concerned with the numbers but at the same time the car felt so tight and smooth across the rev range.

So are you using the Apexi Pod's or Panels atm? I've had no issues with my oiled filter after 14mths of usage and cleaning it every 5,000k's. I've heard of slide's rebuild's, is it just a stock rebuild or an improvement over stock, as in does he make them ball bearing (I didn't think 33GTR turbo's were ball bearing?) Because $1400 sounds like good insurance and if they're capable of 300awkw's then that's more than I'll ever pursue on a daily driver. I'll have a look at the group buy you mentioned and should have some info on compression soon enough. I didn't realise compression had to be so close across all cylinders, I was under the iompression you could have say 5psi variance acros them and that's still a healthy engine. See what the figures say. Cheers Just had a look at the Oil relocater/cooler setup, looks the goods and double filtration and no mess plus a cooler for about $400 sounds good to me =D

I guess my 'goal' would be to have a nice balanced street car, I'm not out to win any dyno shoot outs or be the fastest car around, owning a V-Spec is cool enough for me. I won't really know if 250awkw's is enough until I get there but from what I read that's about the limit of the stock Turbo's. For now I'll simply get used to the power difference over my GTS25T and go from there. It's looking more and more like a turbo upgrade is not only good for power if I want more than 250kw's but also good for safety so that might have to be the first things I get saving for. Cheers for all the help guys. Car is due to be inspected in around 10mins, fingers crossed =D

Are 34 GTR turbo's a decent upgrade? If I'm never after more than say 250awkw's?

Yer I totally get what you're saying for sure, really depends on what I want from the car I guess, still 3K on turbo's is better than 6k+ or whatever it is for a rebuilt 26DETT. What are the stock GTR turbo's worth? I guess a few bucks can be had from those to offset the cost of the new ones.

The car has a Ganador titanium turbo back system and high flow cat as far as I could see under it so that's sorted. 3k for turbo's is a bit much straight off the bat 0_0 What are GTR Turbo's worth? I was told N1's are a good upgrade and that the GT-SS's are a bit more laggy? Either way, 3k straight up when I've just dropped a a fair few bucks on the car is a lot. Might get to saving and stay on stock boost for a while I think =D Should have comp figures tomorrow! I didn't think standard GTST turbo's were that sensitive at stock boost, are GTR turbo's more prone to failure in general or only at higher boost levels?

OK I'm happy with the info you guys have given me on induction, if you'd like to argue it more take it to PM =D How bout some info on GTR compression figures?

"wang extension" lol classic! Panels it is for me then =D Thanks for your info guys, much appreciated. I'll be sure to post up pics when I get the car (fingers crossed the inspection goes well but admittedly I think we're in the clear). Is there a range that the GTR compression should fall into? I know they should be as even as possible but is there a too low/too high set of values? Cheers

I'm still keen to know if anyone is running Dual Pods, not necessarily Apexi ones, and using a Cold Air Box using the stock snorkle. I have this setup atm and it works well and sounds excellent. Given the cost difference though, I think Panels might be the go.

Valid point, just throwing some ideas around. It's weird but for some reason I see the GTR as being so much more delicate than my GTS25T in how I will probably treat it but in reality, it's probably a crap load stronger.

Is there an official figure on what boost they run with the restrictor removed? I've read various texts but 14-15psi seems to be the norm, is this accurate as it would save buying an EBC or is there more control/more benefit of an EBC? I'm thinking would be good to be able to wind the boost down a bit on a hot day/track day if I'm gonna give it some stick.

I was contemplating going to the track a few times but not super hard sessions but still, cooler oil can't hurt. I've spilt enough oil on the cross member in my 33 to know it shits me to tears when it happens so a relocater might be the go. For the record, is anyone running Pod's with a cold air box using the stock snorkel?

LoL, OK point taken, 14 is OK. Is there much merit in an oil cooler? Cooler would have to be better but I'm thinking it might be overkill on a street car. I also like the ide aof an oil relocation kit as the filter location on an RB is a pain in the ass if you wanna do it without spilling oil everywhere >.<

So if I'm not in a position to be forking over 3k+ for N1's then I should probably leave the boost at stock levels, add some cam gears and get a safe tune for reliable power rather than more power but less safety. I've heard of people blowing turbo's on RB25's after 12ps which I thought were ceramic as well (mines a Series II) but never of the engine ingesting the blades, why is this such a problem on RB26's? If it's such a huge issue why do people even run 14 if the turbo's are so sensitive?

Cheers for the feedback. Looks like K & N Panel is the go, I'm currently using a K & N Pod and like the cleanable nature. With regards to boost on the stock turbos. Could the car be safely tuned for 14 or will this drastically reduce the life of the turbos? I get that you're saying don't exceed a bar but if the car is tuned for an even 14psi, will this cause issues? I understand it's a much of a muchness question in that all turbo's will eventually fail and that they could go at any time at any PSI etc. Just looking for a happy medium. The power figure mentioned, 300rwhp, which is around 225rwkw's, is that on stock boost or with boost added? I was under the impression that on around 14psi they make around 250rwkw's with a tune and cam gears. Cheers

I've done quite a bit of searching and have not found clear answers as yet. On the provision that the professional inspection/comp test goes well tomorrow I'll be taking ownership of a Series II 33 GTR V-Spec (Yay for me). It currently has a Turbo Back system and an aftermarket FMIC core but that's all, stock boost, no management, not even air filters. I'd like to do something intake wise and have come down to either Apexi Panel filters or the Apexi Power Intake Kit. If using the Intake Kit, have people been able to find a good cold air box that still uses the snorkel? If using the panel filters, is there much of a gain? I assume cleaning/servicing them is simply a matter of blowing them out with a compressor? How long do they last? In addition, can some GTR owners relay their experiences with boosting the stock turbo's as I've read plenty of horror stories of turbo's letting go and the engine inhaling ceramic dust - not pretty. Given I'm coming from a GTST with a turbo back exhaust and POD/CAI only, the GTR is certainly a step up power wise. Having said that, we all love to tinker and get more power and with this in mind I was contemplating going PowerFC and some Cam Gears and possibly some more boost at that stage, dependent on what people say about boosting the stock turbos. With this setup, and the above mentioned filters, what kind of power figure would I be looking at on stock boost and on say 12-14(I read 14 is the absolute max for stock turbo's?) All info appreciated but I'm particularly interested in hearing from other GTR owners who have done the above. Cheers

I've got FAST working but need assistance working out the letters in the model code. Here's the VIN BCNR33022549 I specifically want to know what options were fitted to this car. The model code is GGJPRWFR33ZDAA---A Cheers for the assistance =)

For those who have this same problem you can PM me for the complete instruction manual for this device. Problem is now solved. Cheers

So then this car has had them added? It clearly has them. I'll inspect for an aftermarket job when I look at the car this weekend. Is it possible/easy to do a transplant? Or is it more common to have people put in the cheapo kits?

For those playing at home, I just found this.. http://www.sumopower.com/vehicle_id.htm Still wouldn't mind clarification on Xenons and actually all V-Spec differences. I know of, Active LSD Attessa-ETS Pro Lower, Stiffer Suspension What else is there?

Crap, turns out BCNR33 is gone anyway, I must have been looking at BNCR33 today, woops.