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Everything posted by No Crust Racing
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Man am I gonna hve to rip the dash out AGAIN! >.<
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Howdy R33 owners, I've noticed that my hazard light switch and rear demister are not lit in the same way that other buttons are at night, can someone please confirm that there buttons are lit? Cheers
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Bits N Peices
No Crust Racing replied to thizzle's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Cheers for the quick replies. Free Bump -
Hey all, Thought I’d share my Saturday’s work with you all. Task: Replace rear wheel bearing – get rid of that annoying hum. Time Required: With correct tools, a few hours, without, 8 painful hours. Skill Level: If all goes well, intermediate, if it doesn’t - advanced. Specific Tools required: • 36mm socket • 17mm socket or spanner • 3 pronged pulley style puller • Breaker bar • Bearing press (do not even attempt this without ready access to one) • Jack and stands • Leadlight Notes: • If you’re unsure if you have a bad bearing, pay Nissan for an hour of their time and have them diagnose it like I did. • This guide can be applied to both rear bearings, in my case it was a passenger side for those who are curious. • A cheap pair of thin gloves can minimise skin lose and make it easier to clean up later. • Nissan claimed I’d need a new grease seal which is located on the drive shaft side of the wheel bearing. The seal is metal and is quite hearty, as such I chose not to replace mine. This decision can be made at your own discretion. Plus the seal is worth $70 so I’m taking it back! To get started, crack the wheel nuts the jack the car up from the diff and get some stands under it (safety first people, you will need to get under the car and you should never do this without stands, they’re cheap as). Ok, you now see something like… OK, now you’re going to need to remove the caliper so we can take the rotor off, you’ll need a 17mm socket to remove the two bolts at the back that hold it on. You may need to use a open ended or ring spanner to get at one of them as it’s a bit more confined, shown below. You can now move the caliper out of the way, be sure not to excessively bend the hoses. This is also a good chance to check hose and pad condition. Yep, plenty of meat on those babies... Ok, now remove the split pin and the metal cover which hides the behemoth 36mm nut. We didn’t have one that big on hand but know a few people in the industry and were able to borrow one, precious time lost. Oh yeah, remove that big ass nut and then you can remove the rotor, this may require some love taps from a trusty hammer. You should now be looking at something like this. At this point you can remove the washer shown in the above pic and take a second to work out where to go from here, I harassed the local Nissan dealer and got the diagram shown below which shows our offending wheel bearing buried away behind the stud assembly. We gave the stud assembly some healthy taps to try and loosen it, with absolutely no success. Even PJ didn’t know what to do and this pooch has seen her share of mechanical work. It became obvious that we were going to need a pulley remover to get this sucker out and given that we didn’t have one it was off to local auto shop to buy a product that would suit our needs. $27.50 worth of pure quality… OK, more time wasted but we’re getting there. Use the awesome power of the Ferrari puller like so. Here’s when things started turning south.. The damn stud assembly simply would not budge and we realised that we’d pushed the drive shaft out rather than pulled the assembly forward. The following shows the back of the assembly. Woops, we forgot to remove the wheel bearing hub bolts, you can see two of them in the above pic. After removing all 4 of these (woops can’t remember the socket size, but they are a bitch to get at) have another crack with the Ferrari puller and the whole assembly will come out in one piece. In my pic we’ve also removed the parking brake components to get a good look at what’s going on. Play very close attention to where the components go, especially the springs, as you've gotta put it all back together later. At this point it becomes obvious that we’re dealing with a pressed fit bearing and will require a bearing press to separate the components. Luckily for me I know a mate who has one so we headed to his house to use it. I forgot the digital camera but can only describe the next three hours as a living nightmare. We pressed the bearing out of the stud assembly and found that one of the bearing cups had separated from the bearing housing and had stayed attached to the stud assembly shaft, not good. At first we tried a hammer and a sharp chisel to try and move the cup forward enough to get some thick plates underneath the cup edge and press it off but we bent the plates and realised how tight the cup was on there. We then tried heating it with an Oxy to have it slip off with no success. We then welded some bolts to the edges(with a MIG) of the cup to get the leverage we needed to use the press, we broke one of the welds off! By this stage I was starting to stress, I mean it was getting on in the day, Mark Webber had lost his 2nd place position on the grid and we’d run out of options… Bar one.. We’ll grind the bastard! Well, we actually ground some deep marks in the cup wall and then heated it again with the Oxy and were able to use those deep gouges to get leverage with a chisel and hammer to belt the thing off. We did mark the stud assembly shaft in one spot and performed some clean and tidy work to make it all smooth and like new again. Here’s what was left of the cup. Here's two showing the old wheel bearing assembly and the other side where the cup let go. You’ll need that bearing press again to press the stub assembly into the new wheel bearing. We headed back home after stopping off to pickup my mate a 1L bottle of Southern for his troubles, You should always reward acts of heroism =D. Now it’s time to put it all back together. Installation is more or less the reverse of removal. We’re not done yet but we’ve earned a drink and a hard earned thirst needs a big cold… Tasty orange drink! The hard part of putting it all back together is the hand brake assembly as the springs are a real pain to work with. We used some needle nose pliers and two sets of hands to put it all back together. We also put the adjuster in last as it’s next to impossible to get it all to stay still while you put springs in. Half way there on the hand brake.. Don't forget this! The rest is pretty straight forward and shouldn’t cause any hassles. Remember to adjust both sides when doing hand brake adjustments, adjustments are made by rotating the tabs which lengthens or shortens the adjuster. There’s a removable grommet in the rotor hub that allows you to get at it with a flat head screw driver. Don’t forget to put this back on! Now get the jack back in there and remove the stands, be sure to remove all tools before lowering the car! Woops, almost crushed the leadlight! Be sure to tighten all your wheel nuts with the wheel on the ground. Go for a test drive and see if the hum has gone, YES IT HAS! Take it easy for the first kilometer or so just to make sure all is right. Check your wheel nuts again when you return. Congratulations you’re done! Hopefully your replacement didn’t take 8 hours because of this guide =D Cheers
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It's actually a 36mm. I'll have a detailed Tutorial on changing the wheel bearing up soon complete with pics =)
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R33 Skyline Parts 4sale
No Crust Racing replied to HEDAKE's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Emails traded last night, very fast responses, free bump -
Well so long as it works =D Good luck and I'll let you know how I go with mine.
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Mint: This is a lighting issue. As the rears are so much deeper, they tend to look darker. (The apssenger side is exactley the same. In the right like they look even. I also bought these 2nd hand so won;t be able to have tempe o any swaps. Jim: That looks like a hack job! I Hope someone is gonna edge that properly so it dosn't rust or slice open ya tyres! Cheers
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I'm fitting Bilstiens and king super lows in the next few weeks when I get around to it but I'd suggest you will be pushing shit uphill personally. The inner lip of the guard eats into available space considerably on the rear. Depends on rubber size too, 235's seem to be almost the limit up front, 265's squeeze in on the back (9.5inch wide out back). Hope that helps.
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Hey all, Just got some Bilstiens and King Super Lows and will be installing them soon but thought I should ask if I'm going to need any camber adjustment due to the change in ride height. I've got 18's all round if that's relevant. Cheers
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Yeah i know it's a'round' 24 but I'd love to know exactly what size as I have a few big sockets but nothing that fitted. Already got the breaker bar ready =)
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Hey, I've gotta replace a rear passenger wheel bearing and to do so need the get the hub assembly off. To do THAT I need to remove the bolt circled in the diagram which sits behind a dust cover that is removed after taking the pin out. If anyone has done this and knows the size that'd be great! Cheers Dan
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Hah, agreed!
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Here ya go, very quick chop, excuse the untidy lines and bad lighting but no-one had replied so thought I'd do a quicky for you.
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Hey, The above was pretty poor (no offense) so I had a quick crack =)
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Attn: Series 2 Owners
No Crust Racing replied to No Crust Racing's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Aight, I'll book it in to get checked and get all the measurements but will ask them not to adjust anything. Thanks =D Dan -
Attn: Series 2 Owners
No Crust Racing replied to No Crust Racing's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Great, thanks =D I got 2720mm on the right side and 2710mm on the left so I'll go with 2720 being correct. SydneyKid: is adjusting castor on the left going to affect this measurement? I might go get all the measurements for an alignment done but have them call me first. -
Yeah I'm looking at suspension and zorst now, suspension first though as 18's bumped up the ride height a little. I wont need FMIC, I only intend on 10psi and that'll be handled easily by a R34 GT-T Side Mount. Keep me posted =D
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Yeah I love the 37's and LM GT4's as well. I also really like the BBS LM's but they're all out of my price range and I wa sso over the stock 16's.
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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...T&f=59&t=106087
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Dezz, they're in that Impuls thread =) Car needs to be lowered but is looking better by the day =D Just got my wheel bearing too, woo woo.
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Err.. I'll try to refrain from any form of humour in the future...
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C'mon Nate.... You could easily make a few more bucks if you got some more of these =D
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Dude you so missed the boat..
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Attn: Series 2 Owners
No Crust Racing replied to No Crust Racing's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
SK: nfi, tell me how to measure them and I'll tell you what they are. As I stated in my blurb, the k-frame appears mis-aligned and that a simple adjustment there will put everything back to where it should be. Unless adjusting castor is going to move the k-krame as well which I can't see how that would occur (but I'm no expert). I can see from the pressure on the sway bar bush that the k-frame needs to come forward and everything would be then be where it should be. Cheers