No Crust Racing

Well it seems we have some divided opinion, which is great to see. My point here was to share 'my' experience with the product in the hopes of helping others make a more informed decision. Others can feel free to note their own experiences with the redline products or indeed any other gearbox product as it can only server to give people more info to use in makig up their own minds. Cheers

Give Redline a call, I spoke with John, they'll ask you about your box and then you can go from there.

Ahh, yes, agreed. John did state that given my apparent gearbox wear that this would be suitable. However, most people tend to leane towards changing there oil when they have picked up a crunch, grind or clunk. So something to bare in mind everyone, cheers DG.

I spoke with redline directly, John, who gave me this part number and specification of oil after telling what car and transmission I had.

I've done a LOT of reading about what box oil to use in my 33. Castrol VMX80, Syntran and Redline Lightweight Shockproof were the 3 tops selections (Royal Purple was also mentioned a few times). Well today I bit the bullet as I wanted to change the oil to ensure it was new and in doing so hopefully smooth out or eliminate a clunky feel from 1st-2nd and an occasional grind from 3rd-4th when changing at high revs. I opted for the Redline option as 99% of people who use it SWEAR buy it, and that's in light of the rather high price. The 2nd problem I had was how much oil would I need. I made many calls and received a WIDE range of responses. The actual truth of the matter is very simple. In my Series II R33 5 speed manual transmission, I did NOT use all of the US Gallon (3.785L's). There's still 3-400ml in the bottle indicating a capacity of ~3.3-3.5L's and this was when the oil started coming back out of the filler hole. We also filled the car on even jack stands front and back to be sure it was filling evenly. I also purchased a 1L suck and blow as I call it, shown in the pics, which made putting the oil in a total breeze. Some pics are attached and are captioned accordingly. Now, the important stuff. After going for a drive, there is a noticeable improvement in smoothness through gear changes under normal driving conditions. Under hard driving conditions the improvement is even more noticeable, the box made the dreaded grind noise only once from 3rd to 4th and I'm told that with a few hundred K's the improvements should be greater still, this could also easily be due to a worn clutch. Bottom line, the oil DID make an improvement. It is up to you if you feel that the improvement is worth the $130 or so (if you can get it cheaper awesome but I'm in a regional area and this was available on the shelf today when I needed it). I'm of the frame of mind that given how long this oil can stay in the box, you might as well spend extra $50-$70 and do it right with a proven oil rather than trying to save that money and not getting as much an improvement from another brand. Having said that, I have not used any other brand and can only give you my impression of this oil. So the important stuff... The oil DID make an improvement. The gearbox takes around 3.3-3.5L. One US Gallon, WILL be enough to fill the box with some left over. I now have 3-400ml left over that if someone needs to top up there box, they can contact me and we can work something out. Now for some pics!(There's a tutorial on these forums about how to change the oil, it's very simple and quite accurate, read that if you're unsure on how to do this). You will need.... Now get under the car... Drain all the oil out and be sure not to lose the plug into the oil as it has a magnetic seal which should pick up all the worn case hardening. Give it a clean, here's some before and after. I imagine this oil was the original stuff 0_0 Before After cleaning When you put the drain and filler plugs back in use some loctite, it's your friend and will ensure your precious fluid stays in. We filled the 1L bottle a few times and pumped it back into the box. Fill it til it starts to come back out the hole then put the filler plug back in and you're done. Now go for a drive and see what you think! I hope this helps someone and saves them doing all the bs I did to find out what was what =) Cheers

Awesome, feels like it's got more push through the mid range but just wanted to be sure. I also just put some redline box oil in today too. I'll post about that the appropriate forum =) Looks like my tap into black wire works too =D

LoL, I posted the wrong pic, here's the right one! The red line shows where it sits. Someone please confirm if it needs to be cut completely or tapped into is fine and if my neddle position is fine. shown by the RED LINE. Cheers

Ok I did it today, I've attached pics to show my wiring. The car to me feels like it's got more urgency through the rev range now. I've also attached a pic showing where my stock needle goes to, it does this straight away and holds there. Can anyone confirm that this is the right place for the high 7-8psi factory setting as it's been a while since I booted it and could just be mistaking the feeling of power for standard 4-5psi. Cheers PICS! We soldered this and then taped it up. Then we rubbed some paint off and bolted our earth to the chassis. Here you can see how it all looks, pretty tidy. And this is where my needle sits now... Hope that helps someone, now can anyone confirm that this is the right place for the needle to be sitting.

Spook33 RB25DET 2WD Colour: QM1 - White 5SP Manual Was there something specific you wanted?

It comes up, what did you wanna know?

LoL WTF? Can I use FAST to look up part numbers and so forth or is it just a database of cars which is almost useless to me? Cheers

Well good to know that my car was always Super Clear red II =D I'll check the model codes.. Just checked and got some insights, wtf is an active LSD, as apparently I have the letter that denotes this option coupled with ABS which I already knew I had... I knew it had 'an' LSD but wtf is Active all about or just some naming shizzle?

Cheers Dezz, now I got a whole lot of jap stuff that amkes no sense =D How am I supposed to translate this? Like what is the colour AR1 for example?

Ok my VIN is 18 digits but FAST will only let me enter 17, what gives? Spook33: That's an engine number I think. I tried both my VIN and Engine number (one 18 one 17 digits) with no success. I also tried to one that BBGTR did above and got no results either. I've copied all 5 CD's to the right directories and poined the setup program at them as per the instructions. Those CD's are listed in the bottom right hand corner of the program but still nothing works! What gives =\

Those sounds do describe how mine was, be sure to try and locate thesound though. We put mine up on stands and drove it to help locate the sound to be sure. Even still, I went to Nissan to get it confirmed. Mind you they misdiagnosed another problem for me recently so they are not all knowing. Good luck.

No idea sorry, you'd best ask a 32 owner who's done it or call your local Nissan =)

Nope sorry but your local Nissan dealer will have. Give them a try, don't call them, go in!

A pic would be good, you may need a pully remover as shown in my guide to get the plate off the hub assembly first? Pics would assist a lot =D

Parts required for this job (Nissan Part Numbers): 43210AA100 - Wheel bearing hub (this comes as a whole hub and not just a bearing. I sourced this part from a local supplier for much less than the 230ex GST Nissan wanted. 3925235F03 - Metal Grease Seal (Goes behind the hub assembly between it and the drive shaft - I did not end up requiring this. R33S2: Having Never replaced a wheel bearing before, this was a baptism of fire and I was lucky I had access to skilled people and tools =D One mate scored himself a 1L bottle of Southern for his efforts which were most appreciated. JCMarshall_Law: LoL< I'd hope would realise they need to disengage the hand brake but your point is taken =) I was not aware that the backing plate was a heat issue, especially given the natural brake bias of most cars but I'll take it on board when/if I do any track work. Cheers for the feedback guys,

Hmm, high pitched whining doesn't describe the sound I had, mine was a low pitched hum. As stated in the guide, one of the first steps it get Nissan to diagnose it properly. Then, if it,s wrong, you can blame them =D

You, my friend, are a legend

It's all good, I took some detailed measurements and have since fixed the issue. The measurements did NOT add up so the only way to fix the issue was to die grind new holes for the stabilizer bar, which required us to weld on new metal washer and tidy it all up. I've attached a pic showing the end result (just took the pic, the repair a few days old now). I know this sounds very dodgy BUT I had a suspension/alignment specialist on hand to assist and he agreed that this was the best fix without putting the car on a rack and risking bending other components. For the record the measurements are now PERFECT each side at 2730mm wheel centre to wheel centre. I'll be getting a full balance and alignment after easter as we're putting in my shocks and springs (Bilstiens with King Super Low's for that phat look ) Just to clarify, we die grinded the original holes back towards the front of the car then welded new metal washers in place (we also sprayed the welds with WD-40 which makes them high tensile apparently). We then touched it up with some primer and a quick hit of black.

Craved: which one? As people are saying the rear demister lights up.

Yeah could be a stuffed exhaust gasket, all engines sound crap when one goes..

I'd avoid turning over the running gear at all until you're at a mechanic. If it is, as suggested, a bearing. You want to minimise damage to otrher components. See if you can get a tow to a nearby mechanic and good luck.