No Crust Racing

Yer, we've all had our moments =D

Thought as much ^-^ Now I wonder what the H and M buttons do near the CLOCK?!?!?

Yeah... umm.... sorry but you're on your own =\ Although, I still don't know what the blank key on my factory remote is supposed to do if that makes you feel better. I also have no idea what the rubber hose running up to the small vent near the electric aerial controll switch does =D There's some kind of wire/sensor their so I'll hazard a guess and say climate control but Reset button? C'mon How bout that?

I've got the key fob with remote entry and accidentally set the alarm off the other day (didn't know it had one...) My fob has a spare button that seems to do nothing? Any ideas? I have a lock, unlock, turn interior light on/off button and a blank spare which I thought might be a panic button but does nothing... Was there ever a remote boot release option?

Installed head unit tonight, no adapter for Antenna needed. Damaged a speaker though so will be replacing those very soon =D Look out eBay! P.S. Rear's are indeed circular and appear to have required adapter plates =)

I just installed a Pioneer head unit tonight and noticed that I now struggle to get good reception with my aerial in half height mode (SII 33), but of course it's fine in full height mode. Not too stressed as the main reason for installing was to play CD's. Will whip it out and make sure that the plug is all they way in! Oh and the backlighting is bright as a mofo ut that's another story =D (There doesn't seem to be a wire for dimming either before someone mentions it)

Pics? Mandrel Bent?

http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm HICAS and ECU Diagnostic process. =)

Actually.. A picture I grabbed from another post on this forum shows that at low speeds HICAS does nothing at all... It's Honda's and so forth that use 4 wheel steer for parking duties (because the owners can't drive). Heck was surprised how easy it was to reverse park my 33 and that's with a GTR wing, some people just gotz no skillz. Back to the HICAS.. I did recently check my pressures (as I do weekly) and they were fine... *shrug* While it keeps driving straight and no HICAS light I guess it's OK =\

Randy (we meet again, you are always full of useful info for me ) The drive to work this morning felt fine, gave it a bit of a push around some corners at mid to higher speeds and felt some stuff going on back there. I'm confident that you're right and that it's nothing, still nice to have someone else confirm it for me =) Cheers

So the pics I showed where there appears to be a screw missing and a black window for LED's doesn't meant anything?

If I recall correctly, the Nissan Manual explains that pressing down the reset button while chanting the fabled RB26DETT poem of power should make the car return to it's factory configuration in every conceivable way (So will be brand new again!) This is confirmed by the clock being reset to it's original time setting.... But if you get it wrong the car implodes and rips a hole in the fabric of space and time... or something... 0_o Make sure you press it really hard! If it doesn't go in at least 1 inch behind the dash, push it harder! If it breaks.. it needed replacing anyway... P.S. People attempting the above do so at their own risk =)

Sounds like he didn't remove the cover. He used boiling water and condensation to do the internal work for him. =) I might try this tirick on my rear driver side indicator that has a very small crack =(

Just in response to the parkers removal query if it wasn't solved, passenger side is easy access for aussie hands, driver side required me to loosen and move the fuse box, wiper fluid reservoir and the overflow bottle to get my hand in there 0_o. They may appeard hard to get at, but just pull back the rubber flaps covered them and twist 1/4quarter to get them out, remember not to touch the bulb surface =)

I've searched through 4 pages of results and not found what I'm after =\ I'd like to do a diag on my ECU as part of my upcoming maintenance and have read through this page, http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm After removing the kick panel and then the ECU to spin it around, I turned on the ignition and looked all around the ECU, no lights lit on the ECU anywhere. Tried turning off then back on again, nothing. The car runs fine apart from smelling a bit rich and obviously not getting great fuel economy ($50 gets 35L which gets 250 or so K's of complete town driving, it's a Series II 33, 5 SPD with POD and CAI) I've included some pics to show what I was looking at. Note the lack of a screw in that hole that’s next to where I think the LED's should be flashing? Can anyone post pics or comment on my ECU so I know if I'm missing a screw or doing something wrong. Cheers Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3

I've already made sweet love to the search button OK! On the way home this evening my car's steering seemed to get a reasonable amount lighter than per usual (Series II R33). I wiggled the steering wheel back and forth for a while and changed speeds (ranging from 40-110) still doing my little back and forth left right wiggle. It felt much lighter across the range of speeds completely whereas it used to feel like it was quite heavy over 100 (which felt nice). No HICAS light has come on (other than with the rest of the lights during the ignition sequence) and a quick look under the rear doesn't yield any clues (nothing leaking nothing obviously busted etc). Just wondering if anyone else has experience this before. I'm wondering if something is busted or if HICAS has just started working or what, or if I'm being overly sensitive. I'll of course monitor it over the next few days and see how it feels but just wondered if anyone has experienced this before. It doesn't help that I've got a set of 18's with much wider rubber on the way either they will stay off until I'm comfortable that all is well. Side note, 265's should fit on the rear right? Cheers P.S. Is there some form of HICAS diagnostic I can do without Consult?

Another mystery solved! Consequently, I had to remove the overflow bottle to change my parker bulb... Gotta love jap cars made for tiny jap hands =D

The black sealant on the inside is meant to be there =) I have a similar problem on my SII 33, due to a small crack in the indicator lens assembly. It seems quite common and if left un-resolved for long enough will eventually result in fading, mould, discolouration etc. It's a matter of personal opinion as to when you deal with it. I'll be leaving mine for a while yet *lazy* =)

Here Here! Though my performance aspirations for my GTST are nothing more than a reliable 180-190kw's or so as I don't wanna tune for higher than 10psi, purely to reduce the risk of component failure. Maybe I'm just overly safe =\

*nods* Fair enough =) I'm sure that information is valuable to those researching their options. It saddens me to see any car, let alone a GTR, being completely abused. I mean sure, enjoy your car but know the limits of your cars components!

That really means very little wihout knowing the condition of the car, it's service history, or why it died.... Not trying to incite violence or anything, just pointing out that perhaps more detail would be handy for the initial thread started. Cheers

I did the above for a 33 and got fault codes 22 and 25 How do I replace inside air sensor and sunload sensor? Also, in mode five, I only got two readings 31 and -30 (obviously a problem). Also, when I went back to step 2, the sensor check, and held the fan switch(like explained to get to calibration) all I got was 22, 25 and then -26. I could access Calibration when in mode 5 (pressing the defrost windscreen button). I wasn't sure how this worked as I could only move the temp from -3 through to +3. Wasn't sure what effect this would have. The air con itself works fine. My only real world problem is that when I move from 18 to 19 degrees it goes full blast heat. I imagine fixing these sensors will rectify that. Where do I start! Cheers

Actually, My boss told me that I can use our freight company (sometimes we ship large servers that weigh around 50-60kg's) and the freight company said that due to our contract with them etc it shouldn't be more than $40-$60 for the lot. *stoked* Cheers for all ya help. P.S TNT said they wouldn't do personal consignments =\

Stud pattern is the same for my GTS25T as I understand, it's offset that makes them unsuitable for my car, what is the offset? Oh and pics please =D

Will give them a call.