Nathan_G1

there you go, a front pic as well

(Use this as a guide for new threads. Delete and/or copy the fields as needed - dont forget to add your location in the description field above. Delete this message) Item: Location: Item Condition: Reason for Selling: Price and Payment Conditions: Extra Info: Contact Details: Item: 1993 R32 GTST Location:Adelaide, Sth Australia Item Condition:Perfect condition Reason for Selling:Wanting something cheaper for drift Price and Payment Conditions:$16000 Extra Info: Engine: RB20DET VG30 turbo 180rwkw HYBRID GT SPEC intercooler 650x300x100 NGK Platinum plugs Serviced and tuned TILBROOK AUTO AND DYNO Suspension: TEIN HR coilovers Front and Rear adjustable camber arms Front adjustble castor arms Whiteline rear adjustable satbilizer bar (custom) (already setup for drift) Others: Hicas lock kit New diff (unfortunately viscous) Serviced Momo steering wheel Immaculate interior RAZO turbo timer Great car, handles and drives very well, minimal to no lag and great power Contact Details:0404873163 or pm me or email me

How are ya mate - il give ya 1300 for the turbo, coz i gota source the water line and things like that, are you sure theres no problem with the turbo??? Gimme a call on 0404873163, im from adelaide, sth australia il take it, no worries

How are ya guys, just wondering if anyone would have any ideas on how a TD06-19C would perform on an RB20 engine, bearing in mind the engine is going to be built for drift, what other things could i add to make it a little less laggy and perform better? Engines got VG30 now, HYBRID intercooler, bosch 040 fuel pump and basically standard internals and injectors as well as standard ECU. Let me know what you guys think? should i get it or go for something else? want atleast 250rwkw

My HICAS light basically stays on all the time now, but ive removed the hicas at the rear for a lock kit, my steerings all the same no lack of, although i understeer heaps (skyline trait) ive just moved on i think my hicas rear unit was screwed anyways.....all in all man, put alock bar on it and remove the hicas rear steering all together its better that way i can tell u the proper way to do it if u buy one without instructions.

s**t dude, thats messed up.......if you catch those guys in the act i rekn i know what ul be doing to em, no doubt id do the same

The hose attatched to my Fuel pump was pretty much melted and gone so ive replaced that, and my fuel tank seal was broken so now im no longer leaking fuel and no longer smelling fuel - other then the fuel that spilt on too me when i replaced my rear hoses again (fuel doesnt help inte eyes)....but yeh im hoping shes fixed and hoping that my submergable fuel line stays sealed and doesnt melt to a gel again.

im booking my car in this week, hopefuly they help me out and set my car up sick ways....the more i add the better it will be, im thinking bout going all out, but ive still got my RB26 to buy in about 2 months - c wat happens, il keep ya's updated

Hope you solve your problem man, ive gota re-think my problem with my 32. I was out in the rain drifting around regency and all of a sudden im smelling fuel badly, so i start driving home thinking maybe one of my lines is coming loose and just for the fun of it i take off hard in second and no wheels are spinning - nice problems there. I got some crap to fix when it stops raining........il let ya's know whats wrong, if i find it, any ideas???

no doubt about that

he charged me $70 to get all the studs out and an extra $40 or so for all new studs........meanwhile one snapped b4 i started my car and another ones snapped because i think my manifolds a little warped. Most likely why 2 have already gone.

when mine snapped i got a guy called captain thread out, hes a mobile mechanic, got my snapped ones out but i had to put the new ones in. and i had to take the turbo and manifod off. But im from adelaide, maybe theres a guy like that there........not sure.

spose.....but sumtimes i dont rely on figures nor my multimeter for that example and im a sparky. I prefer seeing it work so i definately know for sure

sorry didnt see u write melbourne.....my bad

where you from buddy

"I took all the wires off the AFM and resoldered them all but go the ground and signal mixed up and possibly cooked the AFM" You probly did cook your AFM, but its to my impression that with the greddy e-manage ultimate you dont need to run an airflow meter?? This is what i was told by a doofus at Cartoys. Whether hes right or not is another story. But yeh, try replace your AFM with a Z32. To check your fuel pump, disconnect the feed hose at the fuel filter get a bottle or bucket and put your car on accessories to see if it still pumps fuel if it does, pull your filter off and replace it, could b blocked will cost around $15. Should replace em every 10,000ks

u cant take the headlight out?? should only be attatched to your rad support panel by a couple screws. Coz thats generally the easiest way otherwise you gota get your hands in awkard places and cramp em up just to try get the bulb out. Make sure you find all the screws to the lights....and do it that way dude

make sure your careful taking your fuel pump out....try not to damage it, let me know how it goes

Ive got a similar problem...open your boot, lift your carpet up and ul see where your fuel pump is located....undo the four screws that hold the lid on, and disconnect the plug (wont do anything harmful) and then check your feed and return lines for wear....if there fine and not cracked, undo your lines....and undo the screws that hold the fuel pump lid in place and check your seal around the top of the fuel tank.......mines broken and leaks. Might be ur problem.....check it out

Everyones near castle plaza lol........thanks heaps brother, il look em up and see what they can do for me. The better my sus set-up the better il be. Thanks heaps

AVS?? i was recommended to the guys from stables, they set up a few as well, including Denzo's car. But yeh maybe il go there and see what they think.....can you hook me up with there address?

You can either remove the indicator itself, it clicks into the headlight and has one scew to the rad support panel.....that way u can undo the plug and pull the bulb out with open space rather then full cramped room. Or you can try getting behind the light while still attatched to the rad support panel and struggle a little

il find out how it goes for now when i hit the track monday - if its still playing around and understeering il hit the posts straight away. They never gave me an explanation for the toe in for the rear - as for the castor rods, im pretty sure mine are standard, but they do have thread and a nut where u can play around with the setting. They dont look upgraded and i noticed the same on my mates R32. Il upgrade my front ones and probly get some adjustable sway bars as well, the greater and faster my steering the better

My skylines running hell rich under full boost, cant remember the exact air/fuel ratio but it was hell high, they told me to get a Power FC or something similar so they could lean the mixture a little, under full boost and the richness made 179rwkw with VG30, got told the PFC would get me to 200+ no worries. Cars generally backfire after high revs during a down shift or going off acceleration, shouldnt be too much to worry about

Yeh sorry for late reply, but the HICAS is crap man, i found a huge difference im my rear handling as soon as i got rid of it, mind you my left toe arm was broken as well so i was crabbing all the way to the suspension guy..........ALL FIXED however. I mite get better ones soon, but just now i was at the suspension specialist, my standard castor rods at front are as far as they can go out, they wont adjust my rear toe outwards, theyve kept it in, and only suggested lowering the car at the front 20mm to perhaps settle it down for more oversteer.....they said try that at pt.gawler monday night and let us know, if it still does it, we'l try something new