Nathan_G1

OK cars back from AVS and straight away i noticed a huge difference in handling, they did my sh*t perfect i rekn....but pt.gawler will tell me otherwise.........ive still got my rear stabilizer bar coming and to put on, and i mite order a fully adjustable front sway bar........Scott from AVS is a champ and knows his shizzit....if your from adelaide i rken hes the guy to see for a perfect set-up, he wont let u know the full extent of wat he did (how would he get repeated business) but so far so good, without a 2-way locker it handles like a dream under slide, pm me or just reply to this for a good idea of how to set ur car up

My car i rekn will b fully sick next practice - im booked in the next 2 weeks dude, il try my hardest to do good, get avs to set it up wen u get ur castor arms, il install em for ya properly if ya want

Ok heres the story.....got my car back and soo far im impressed with AVS's work. Scott knows his sh*t and is a really top bloke. He isnt telling me the exact adjsutments he did so he keeps getting business (smart i thought). But i gota rough idea and its the following. Rear: Toe in, quite substantial according to him, coz the other guys put it out(BIG NO NO) Camber out just a degree in the rear only slight Front: 2 degree front camber +9 castor and let me tell u its quite noticeable All up full drift wheel allignment and settings for an attacking stance. The car handles like a dream although it pulls to the left (following the roads camber) and likes to follow all the humps and bumps, but drifting around corners its sooo much more controllable Next up sway bars and my rear stabilizer bar which il get them to set and put on.......plus some more power

If the oil isnt black and its still gold, dont worry about it, the oil that the japanese use in diffs as such is much thicker and better........but if its black yeh change it with what u think is necessary, aussie oil isnt as good.......but its easier to find then HKS diff oil or something like that

1400R's thread is all about that, but its cool, for a R32 castor it up to +8 maybe +9......but on the safer side of you can go +7, the more the better is the theory and plenty of people here will vouch for that.....as for camber, mines running 2 degree's up front and should have none on the rear, but my setup got f***kd up so its got like the same at the rear. I want more camber at the front but thats coz im an idiot, only another degree or 2, just like the look (but dont want the tyre wear lol). Il let u know wat my new settings are 2moro just pm me if im not on by 6ish, and il give u some fully sick specs

STEAL MY CAR MWAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!! its at AVS ya putz.....gettin me some work done to slide sick ways. Maybe next week monday u can steal my car........who knows il probly just let u drive it if u ask nicely

Thats pretty damn good, 6 months for a welded diff and weekly drifting. Impressive, usually they dont hold to long, but whoever welded it did a good job obviously.....give me a holler if you ever want the cusco diffs, problem is its cash up front and 4-5 weeks, but its 1250 instead of a shit load more and there great diffs. Oh yeh, my car is now at AVS and the work starts 2moro, il let ya's know how she goes.......but i think my turbo is on its way out, its soo much louder then it used to be (could be a manifold leak where the snappd stud is...coz it does sound like is leaking exhaust) but meh....il sort something out

Castor it up brother, its fully sick....but yeh ul only get i think +3 max on standard arms, so go for more, tie rod ends will help with greater turn circle.......my next adventure perhaps

Take your car to a suspension specialist or someone who deals with wheel allignments.....however, when u removed the hicas at the rear and replaced it with the bar, all u needed to do was remove the pmubling back to the rear pump, put 2 spacers in and rebolt it. The rear pump still lets the power fluid go through and return without causing power steering problems or failure worst case scenario.

Dont do it man, if its one thing ive learnt sometimes u just cant interchange parts.....did it once wont do it again. Get an RB20DET thermostat, or u could get hell troubles one being the fact that the RB30 could open up later and give a mis reading at ur temp gauge saying ur over heating wen ur not. Try get a higher flowing thermostat that opens at lower temps to keep your car cooler. But make sure its an RB20DET thermostat

Got my R32 upgraded with DBA rotors on the front and machined rears with endless super street m's on front and 8500's rear. But the DBA's are pretty good, got the 4000 series just slotted rotors, didnt want the drilled and slotted coz im iffy on quality, most drilled rotors get stress fractures and crack. But yeh made a bit of a difference especially stopping out on the track

Im all about drift, so il b grabbing a 2-way....one thing i really need to get, and yeh i agree 1250 is a good price, but i gota use my abn and business name to get that price otherwise there around 1500-1600, but gota pay all upfront and wait 3-5 weeks.......dam japan freighting

so far its a viscous.......(my bad i know i shouldnt b using it coz there shite) im most likely ordering a cusco 2 way mz type 2moro unless i can get it cheaper from someone else....my price was 1250 deliverd to my door brand new.

Yeh thats true......i now have the suspension, hicas lock kit, pineapples(set to drift), adjustable front and rear camber arms and front adjustable castor arms and a rear stabilizer bar coming. Tuesdays getting everything re-set-up.....and then il go from there, might get some adjustable tie rod ends sooner or later, but a 2way diff hasnt been put on and that would help me a lot as well as some strut braces

Skylines have a trait of understeering its what they do.....im trying to set it up so that it over steers so i can basically flick it and the rear will come out...thats my aim thats what i want. A drift set-up for me is what im after, as for normal road use yeh u dont really have to worry about camber, but a degree in the front wouldnt hurt to give a little extra steering while cornering quicker.......il keep you guys posted on this topic coz its going for a proper setup on tuesday and monday week il b back on the track.....so il send my settings and let u know how it all goes

Had major issues with my car.....ended up being the fuel pump and the top seal for the fuel pump housing in the top of the boot under then carpet.......i replaced all my hosing and the fuel filter. spent heaps for just a bloody seal. check your boot and fuel pump area and also check the seal where you fill ur tank and hose to the tank, you might have a crack

Depends where you live....i paid 350 for my vertex front bar to be sprayed, they cleaned it up made the lines flow, put to layers of undercoat on the fibreglass so that the actual paint would stick, then they sprayed it in the skyline burgandy (wine) colour and clear coated it.......looks better then my cars paint lol...and i thought 350 was a jip..CHAMPION CRASH REPAIRS ADELAIDE

What turbo are you running? if its hitting full boost around 5.5k sounds like a trust turbo or big garrett....

Merlins right as skylines do still need a little bit of height and body roll for good handling. if you can get up and out of ur driveway by hitting it at an angle its not soo bad but if u cant make it voer a speed hump without scraping then jack it up a little...take it to a sus specialist and get em to put it on a good street setting that wont get u in trouble but wont make ur car look jacked

Dam man, they are pretty sweet rims and for such a good price.....might look into bob jane myself for my next set, hopefuly they got something with dish. And thanks for the heads up about nankangs i wont forget that too fast.......although loosing traction round corners does have its fun

Dude, after i put my adjustable castor arms on yesterday (saturday) after leaving kansai, i took it for a test drive and yeh i agree with merlin, my steering got a hell of a lot lighter and way more responsive, wen it goes to avs on tuesday for a better drift setup, i rekn itl b sweet fully sick. il try and see how much castor i can get im going for +8, +9 atleast. You know me Ryan

Goes to AVS tuesday, but just now ive added adjustable castor arms to the front and sydneykid is sending me a whiteline rear stabilizer bar (not sure when itl get to me yet) but that should make a huge difference to the cars handling, however half my problem is drifting without a 2way mechanical diff, once ive ordered that i should be a little better, but once it gets back from avs it should be a sweet ride

U may as well get a Z32 meter coz it really wont hurt especially with a pfc, however running a HKS GT2530 u dont really need a pfc, if u upgrade your fuel pump and get a HKS FCD and maybe a fuel regulator to adjust fuel pressure you should be good to around 220-230kw at the rear with your standard injectors, u can get ur ecu remapped and your rev limiter changed to 8200rpm and u should have one sweet ride

Adding a supercharger u can put an intercooler on it, and you can put a bov on it, except it not quite the same, its more so a bypass valve, does similar work but different name and minimal noise. Perhaps capa performance could help you with sizes of supercharger for you RB, you may need to look at your compression ratios to run it better, they should give you a good understanding and a rough power figure

This car should really not go un-noticed, if your in adelaide, or basically anywhere its perfect for just normal road driving its got enough boost to ge tout of trouble and enough power and torque to slide it sideways and drift till your hearts content, perfect little package