Nathan_G1

if ur in melbourne just go see em, and if u do.......say hey to michael and gavin for me, no idea if theyl remember me but i was sposed to be the S.A distributor for em but things screwed up and it never happend.....

im kinda glad ive never been fined for anything yet.....but i do sympathise man, but as r34 skyline said........u can apply for an expemption and appeal the loss of licence to a judge and they generally grant it........so good luck ey

usually 190 for a hicas lock kit bar and there easy as to install

looks pretty PHAT simo, good luck with everything.......

R33 GTsT RB27DET 1.0bar of boost got somewhere along the lines of 270-290rwkw 1.5bar 340rwkw and thats all safe levels with the tune of my car built drift tough

get a tune and see how u go

smaller rear exhaust housing will allow much faster spool up, being a relatively large turbo. My suggestion is to go with a IHI/Apexi AX6 turbo, im running one on my 33 RB27DET and its awesome, spools up early full boost easily by 4 or less and cranks till 9,000rpm or more its a fun turbo to have and u wouldnt regret it, but same thing applies, a smaller rear exhaust housing and itl b crazy..mines larger but i got heaps of engine work

i got rid of hicas on my 32, and now on my 33 and never looked back.....wen ur driving hard 9in my case trying to drift) theres nothing worse the unpredictable steering reponse.....my suggestions, get a lock bar and feel how good it feels to have almost complete control of ur cars handeling.......then ul know if ur a bad driver or not LOL

i ran super street s front and rear on my 32 and they were pretty bloody good, very good braking performance didnt fade away wen i was drifting. They do squeel a little tho, but harder compound brakes generally do........make sure u bed them in properly, maybe they'l squeel a little less

where r u from, if ur from adelaide.......scott from AVS suspension is probly the guy id choose

i cant insure mine LOL coz i cant drive it on the street......but most imports can only get insured through just cars insurance. and 33's are generally worth up near 15 so 10 is under-insuring it. but yeh, noone likes seeing another kid dead from a high powered car he couldnt handle....i say kid and im only 21. so take it easy and dont drive it hard in the rain

replace the fuel pump with a new one, install it the same way as how u took the old one out, to test the new fuel pump to make sure it works undo the fuel hose in the engine bay and put it in an empty bottle, turn the ignition on a few times and listn for the pumps buzzing noise, if fuel comes out the lines to the bottle its working. connect the line again and try start the car, if it still dont start u have other problems

sydney kid mite know, but i dont think they would be........they may look the same in photos but sizes could be different which im thinking they would be

congrats on the buy........now ur next task is to not become another road toll victim just another news report. treat ur car with respect and it will reward u with helping u pik up chicks. i do think (personally) that its got way too much power for a 17 year old to handle, but u gota learn sumwhere........just do it on a track.

u can mount them lower and sumtimes its beter to do so for better weight distribution. lower centre of gravity will provide better handling through corners etc. just b sure u have good clearance and that ur sump doesnt hang too low. other then that, set it lower and ul notice the difference

just make sure they clear the front and rear calipers........othere then that, make them balder LOL or blow em up

thank god im from S.A, coz u aint gonna blow this guys doors off mate........actually u probly will coz i most likely wont get traction till 5th

sand it back with fine sand paper so u dont get any deep scratches or gouges. make sure u atleast get the clear coat off, but the primer would bond better if u managed to get it as close to the original plastic or fibreglass. then prime it, and then spray it and then spray it again and then clear coat it

i was happy with my RB20, was cranking 180rwkw with great spool. but the bigger turbo u add the more mid-low torque u loose which isnt wat i wanted to do seeing that i wanted to drift it. i also didnt wanna crank out near 9g's or more for an RB24 overhaul. in the end its up to the owner if he wants to remain with his RB20 or if he bites the bullet and cranks an RB25 in it. coz with that light weight and a bigger engine itl b better

go on nissan silvia forums, hunt a guy named drift007 down, give him a pm and he'l most likely b able to hook u up. hes in japan, freight takes 10days

it all depends on wat ur doing with ur car........eg drifting, circuit or u just want a comfortable drive on the street. me i was happy with my R32 settings. Scott from AVS did a killa job, and that rear stabilizer bar u sent me was killa SK....car felt awesome out on the track

my 32 did the same thing, but that was due to a drift set-up. i had adjustable camber and castor rods front and rear. the reason y my car liked to pull to one side is because it was specifically wheel aligned for flat surfaces. due to our roads having camber to left or right depending on lane and direction my car would pull toward the camber and follow any dips and bumps in the road. perhaps u have more then u think, or it was wheel aligned differently, check ur front and rear left tyres for there camber to the other side....if they have more u have problems if there the same, u got a good wheel allignement

if ur pumps is fine dont worry about it.......my hicas light was on all the time in my 32 and nothing happened, then i got a hicas lock bar and it permanently stayed on...

it takes too long to explain, even tho its really simple to do

generally wheel spacers provide better turn in coz of the wider track stance....im not sure as to whether they could be responsible for ur wheel shacking at high speeds, that could be a totally new problem. Was it vibrating once they were installed or its just recent?