Trooper

Do I need to take off plenum to get to Air reg ( cold start )?

Me too, and I know a lot of others that feel the same.

I am finally going to fix this problem over the weekend (hopefully tonight).. Can someone please confirm if I take the whole plenum off to get to the air regulator? I understand its a bit diff in the RB25, the tute i have been reading is for RB20. Do I just check the spring when I get it off, and give it a good cleanout with contact cleaner? or do I need to test it with a known working one? I will have a look at the TPS switch tonight, I have a multimeter somewhere which I will work out how to use tonight. Thanks again - sorry to keep repeating questions...I have never had to sort out an issue like this before.

I'll be buying one from PSI parts soon... Definitely need a vented bonnet, things are getting very warm.

I will be trying this tonight...Does anyone have any pics specific for R33? I had a look last night to see if I could find it based on this thread, with no luck. I might take the plenum off to make things easier.

Thanks for that mate, I actually read that tute and had a look for the air reg. on my RB25, couldnt see it and thought it must have been just an RB20 thing. I will take off throttle body tonight, and add it to the list of things to check (doesnt sound easy based on that tutorial...I think ill pull the plenum off to make things easier) Cheers - thanks heaps for the help. Is there a way to test throttle position SWITCH? I hope its the air regulator, or the throttle switch...its costing too much in fuel to keep driving how it is.

No I haven't, how do I do this? Is this different to the AAC valve? Because I cleaned the AAC valve and made sure the spring was free to move.

haven't touched AAC screw, it was working perfectly before and nothing was touched, thats why i think its some sensor issue. For the control sensor do I take off the intake plenum? Can they be fixed or should I buy a new one to try out? Thanks

TPS Idle : 0.52v to 0.54v Revving: around 1-2v Foot to floor: 4.25v AFM 0.43v when car turned off 1.3 when idling

I am having a lot of trouble sorting out this hunting problem on my R33. When cold the car idles at 2000rpm, when warm idles at about 1500rpm, but sometimes settles back to about 800-900rpm which is nice. We replaced AFM with a new one, didnt change anything. The car seems to be much more settled when warm. When cold the car jumps very quickly between about 700 to 2000rpm I have cleaned AAC valve. TPS sensor in PFC says 0.46V when car is turned off AFM is about the same I think. When driving AFM goes between 1.3V to 4V O2 sensor goes up to about 0.9V In the PFC menu I tried to adjust idle up and down in the settings, but it did not change at all...down to 200rpm up to 3000rpm and the revs stayed the same. If you have any other ideas that would be appreciated. On a side note my CAS has been wound right round to almost fully advanced (stock cam gear), is there any reason my tuner would have done this? Thanks

Is there somewhere that tells us the "normal" range for sensors? I have been looking through the FAQ and cant find anything. My car just started hunting badly all of a sudden and idles at 2000rpm when cold, 1500rpm when warm A/C on or thermo fans on seems to stabilise hunting a bit. I cleaned AFM, cleaned AAC valve out and then I checked sensors in the PFC hand controller AFM sensor goes from about 1.3V (idle) to 2.4V at about 3000rpm (stationary) Air Flow is about 1400mV if I turn that on with the monitor function. O2 sensor is at around the 1.0V mark too and when hunting ranges from 2.72V to 4V I replaced the fuel filter a few days before the problem started and it was really dirty would this be a possible problem? I also went through a big puddle of water and the car stuttered... Thanks

Haha serious rain... have you seen the news lately? Areas up here have been getting 400-700mm in a 24hr period. It has been absolutely pouring. I will check powerFC voltages... I forgot I could do that. Cheers

We have had a bucket load of rain up here in FNQ and I had to drive through some fairly deep water. After this under boost i think i sucked some water in as the car pulled back quite sharply and then went forwards again, like a big stutter. Since then the car has started hunting very badly on the way to work, and when cold revs very high - over 2300 rpm. Does this mean my AFM is probably buggered? I cant see any obvious vacuum leaks. Idle control valve was cleaned fairly recently too, so i dont think its that. Problem seems to get a lot better once car is warm. Is there anyway to fix a z32 AFM, this one is quite new and I dont want to buy another one already. Thanks

Legend...thanks

I have $90 + postage 0434625148 - dont call tonight, wait till morning im buggered

I will do this, sounds like a smart idea Anyone know the bulb # so I can get one before taking the assembly out? Thanks

After exhaust studs and head studs for a RB25 rebuild. And a full gasket kit for everything I will need Thanks

BUMP!!

BUMP!!

BUMP!!

Here is mine, nice and clean again (rain makes it look a bit dirty) Skirts are fixed and back on - finally - only took me 2 years to get around to doing. Any idea what side skirts I have? They are different to the stock ones I have seen as these wrap around underneath where the door closes.

Not a problem, I will arrange pick up. Thanks

Item: Stinger HPM SWKH0 1/0 GA WIRE KIT 3400 WATTS or 250 AMP Age: Brand New Condition: New, but I have opened the packet when looking at what was included. Price: $260 + Postage Location: Cairns QLD Contact: PM Comments: REASON FOR SALE: Bought 4Ga kit and 0Ga kit, battery is in the boot (r33) so I just ran two 4ga direct from battery instead of 0ga to distro block. PRICE: Paid $300 will sell for $260 For sale is a Brand NEW STINGER HPM SWKH0 1/0 GAUGE WIRING KIT. **NOTE** I have had this sitting at home for the last 2 years and I opened the packet to have a look at the fuse holders. The kit is UNUSED but has been opened, and the packaging damaged a bit (in case this bothers you for some reason). Kit for up to 3400 Watts or 250 amps. # 18 ft. of 1/0 ga. HPM Blue Power Wire # 3 ft.of 1/0 ga. HPM Clear Ground Wire # 1- Platinum Plated PRO-style ANL Fuse Holder with 250 Amp ANL fuse # 17 ft. of 18 ga. Amplifier Remote Turn-on Wire # 1- Platinum Plated Machined PRO Ring Terminal with Cover # 1- Platinum Plated Super Surface Contact Grounding Terminal # 10 - 7 in. wire ties # Full Assortment of Platinum Plated Terminals and Hardware # Protective, Snap-in Wire Grommet.

ADDED STINGER 0G WIRING KIT - SWKH0

I will buy, consider sold please...