Trooper

Not at idle, 58 max so about 40 + 18psi boost.

Just spoke to my tuner and he said there were no issues with the fuel pressure, it was 58psi when it was tuned. Took the car on a longer trip and it does 11L/100km highway driving and 15L/100km for longish city driving. The 270rwkw has been confirmed on two different dynos and I have reasonable knock figures (highest I have seen is 40 when really pushing it in 3rd). Anymore comments?

just the PFC. I have many people that can verify that its making the power I said and I know that injectors and FPR are standard, only fuel upgrade has been a bigger fuel pump.

I told you what dyno. PAC racings dynapack hub dyno and also a dynodynamics roller dyno. Have you heard of the PAC boys before? Well done if you have 500 rwkw, nice power.. I know its making 270rwkw, I am sure that the three tuners and two dynos I have used would not be out.

Stock injectors and same figures on two different dynos (one being the PAC racing dyno)... FPR may be busted? Would this be giving me bad fuel economy?

I am making 270 rwkw with stock injectors and stock fuel pressure (and reg.) with no knock issues at all. I do have very bad fuel economy though, could the stock injectors be contributing to this at all? Cheers

I am having similar issues to you at the moment, < 250 kms per tank and driving me nuts. I put a new fuel pump in recently and my tuner said that the first start is really rough, starved for fuel because the fuel pump is losing pressure overnight. It is meant to hold pressure so the fuel is there to start the car. Mine is a slow leak and he only found it because i left the car there for a few weeks so he could properly tune my cold start. I need to sort my fuel issues out, not sure if this would contribute much to the fuel consumption.

Second that (but I want injectors) Thanks

Thanks mate, good suggestions Fuel pump, flywheel and suspension, new tyres are already done. .. New paintjob I am considering - but I want white again Brakes are a good idea, will look into that as well - something a lot of people including myself seem to put off. I would love new rims but only want genuine jap ones if i upgrade so that is an expensive exercise.

Thanks for the post. Yeh new headlights are $1000, 2nd hand series II ones are very hard to find in perfect (or near perfect) condition. Not keen on a 2nd hand box, never know the condition and it might end up coming back to cost more in the long run. Im moving back home for a bit next year and i have been told the car isnt going in the garage if its leaking oil so diff leak is definately on the list. Cheers

I have put aside $5k to spend on the car and obviosuly I have more than $5k worth of work i would like to do, i have listed my ideas and approx costs what are your ideas on what should be next. Current mods: Garrett turbo Full exhaust PFC AVC-R Blitz FMIC GReddy radiator Pioneer splits Engine bay detailed Alarm fitted Windows tinted makes 270 rwkw with 1.1 bar I have 2 rockford amps, soundstream capacitor and rockford 10" sub and heaps of sound deadening sitting at home waiting to be installed. Current Issues Side skirts cracked Diff leaking Synchros on their way out Gutter rash on rims, and need a good polish Headlights crazed and yellowed Injectors maxed out My Plan 1. Fix side skirts (weld, reinforce and repaint) - they are aftermarket plastic ones which I quite like OR Buy new skirts and fit/paint $600 allowed for this 2. Get FHRX to do a custom install, 2nd battery, false floor with clear lid housing the amps etc and a flush fitting sub box so I can still use the boot, allowed $2200 for this 3. Fix diff leak $300 for this 4. POD heat shield (alloy or plastic) $200-300 I am not sure whether to a) buy new headlights ($1000), b) rebuild gearbox ($1700), c) buy injectors ($900+retune), d) Set some money aside for a respray or just have the paint detailed (a few chips here and swirl marks) OR e) if i should save the cash towards a rebuild $12000 f) buy some nice LED brake lights $500 g) buy a new windscreen - the one i have now is not cracked but has all of these tiny tiny chips that make it hard to see when the sun hits it. I would like around 320rwkw, the reason for this figure is because I am happy with the turbo I have now and do not want to upgrade for more power and increase lag so I will stop when I reach the limit of this turbo (550hp at fly)- the car is a street car and I enjoy the response, not chasing huge figures but as always would like a bit more than I have now with the 270. I also do not want to drive a pig of a car around and at the moment it looks a little worse for wear, with ordinary paint, no skirts, few chips, yellow headlights etc. Cheers - thanks for reading my book.

Nevermind - found mine it was hiding under the passenger seat

What sort of cost is involved in replacing synchros? I need to re-do mine. My diff is also leaking, any idea on $$? Cheers

PFC shat itself so after getting that fixed and retune the updated dyno sheet is posted. Performance specific mods ate Nismo fuel pump Full exhaust Custom Garrett turbo z32 AFM Blitz FMIC AVC-R Power FC Hard intake pipe Radiator upgrade Stock internals Stock injectors Stock cams Next on list: Injectors Splitfires FPR and then a rebuild.

No worries mate... understood. I was just really keen to see it, the more ideas I can get the better.

I am still trying to find one that suits what I want. I am thinking about a Plazmaman alloy one Why don't you want people copying the style? Isnt that the idea of the forum to help each other out?

For an alarm (can incl. built in timer) call Leon at Security In Motion. End of story

Hmmm interesting - I was going to buy this spare engine off you... however on second thought... I might not!!!! Not cool dude !! At least I read this before wasting my time and my mates time coming to check the condition.

So this is a fairly small component of the unit? Any chance damage to this would cause an unusually high battery draw? Usually my battery goes flat in 2-3 days, but since I took the PFC out to send it away the battery hasn't gone flat (the doors still open with the alarm remote after a week - they dont usually last that long)

But don't drag cars get rebuilt on a regular basis

Is there any risk of "over-tuning" Well not over tuning but isn't dyno time the most stress that will be put on the engine etc? I have put my car on the dyno to be tuned 3 times this year (twice for upgrades and once to try and fix some problems). Is it best to try and stock pile as many mods as possible and put as many on as you can then have it tuned until the next pile of goodies is ready to go? A mate of mine said if I keep putting my car on the dyno it will go bang soon and I need to make up my mind exactly what I want and then stop. A rebuild enigne is on my "to do" list but I want to do this in my time, not because I have to. Cheers

G'day Adrian I think soon all the specs will be 'lost' no one will remember what was put in - I dont really mind what is in there, as long as it works, its more responsive than the stock one and very streetable which is what I was after, still a shame they are not going ahead with the project. I fried my PFC so just got that repaired at access I am starting to get misfire problems, hoping its just a matter of gapping the plugs down. Ready to upgrade injectors I think (again), I really want to change them but my tuner doesnt and he is the one with the knowledge. Making 260rwkw on stock injectors, stock FPR etc on 1.1 bar Not sure what to change next. Injectors, Cams, Splitfires come to mind - but I just spent a lot of time having things tuned for economy so I dont really want to touch things for a while.

My power FC crapped itself and needed to be repaired. It kept on reverting to the base map and was not saving certain settings after a tune. I had a loose HC port and apparently the chip was fried. $400 later and I am waiting for the unit back from Access with a new chip, and hopefully all problems solved. Unfortunately the tune was lost (bit disappointed they didnt save the tune before replacing the chip), however I expected this and asked my tuner to save the last tune before I took it in - maybe a good point for anyone that has to send theirs off for repair. Can anyone confirm what this $400 would have replaced? I could not get a definate answer whether it was a major component of the unit (i am not very electronically minded) or if all I got was a small chip. The reason I ask is that I am just curious whether i essentially have a 'new' unit, or if most of it was retained and I have just a small bit replaced. Cheers

Adrian Do you think this is similar to what I have in my R33 (i was the one that sold you the injectors). I have still been to busy to get the actual specs on the turbo I got. All i know is that it runs nicely and I dont get any boost spiking.

Has anyone squeezed one (or two) of these behind the trim in the boot on the right hand side of the car ? (as in where the jack sits but on the other side of the car) in an R33 Gts-t I have seen people move the battery from under the rear parcel shelf into here, and I was wanting to put a second battery in as well in the gap and move the trim out a bit. Cheers Heath