TokyoTaxi

Sutherland.

Almost all Low beams in 32's are H3C and I "think" the High beams are H3's ( not sure ) so I don't think these would work. They fit fine in the Low beam's in my R34 so I know they fit them

Put these in the car, drove to work twice ( in the dark ) and decided I don't like them ( too blue ) so I've replaced them with something "less blue". Michael, I hope you don't mind if I use the same pics as yours to demonstrate ( if you do mind, please PM me ) H1 MTEC Xenon Cosmos Blue White SOLD

I bought these 1 November 06 in LA Airport and they have been worn for a total of 2 hours since I've owned em. I have a stigmatism in my right eye so I can only wear certain sunnies. I tried these on and they seemed fine but when I got home and wore them out in the sun my vision didn't agree with them so here they are up for sale They are Genuine Ray Ban Predator's ( Model RB3269 004/58 ) and have charcoal lenses and gunmetal frames. Do your homework & you'll see that these are going for around $200+ in Aus shops. SOLD !! NOTE: These will be advertised elsewhere so first in, best looking

No. This was made to fit 2 x 10" subs so it would fit perfectly into the recessed area of the boot in an R32 without modifying or removing anything. Couldn'nt have done the same thing with 12" subs.

New pics added.

Correctamundo !! And now days they are like $700 or less for a set which is great value IMO.

Looks like I'll be pulling the tyres off the wheels and selling it all as odds & ends since thats what people seem to want. Will re-post when everything is seperated.

For a local buyer, I'll do the GTS-T set ( the ones with tyres ) for just $1,200

Dimensions added to first post.

I now have new wheels & tyres and these have been given a bath and are ready for a new home !! Buy your baby some new shoes for xmas Here they are........... Fronts Rears

lol !! That's where I went to TAFE to become a mechanic. Used to be a great TAFE !! All the teachers were huge rev-heads

If it's between those 2 only, I'd choose Type 2. And your brakes would NEVER get hot

EXACTLY what I was after !!! Cheers

All true ( to some degree ), but lately I've seen a few Chinese made wheels that have either fallen apart, or the low grade chrome has come off, or the little plastic bolts have fallen out etc. Also, the copies are usually a LOT heavier than the originals. So, if the price difference is not "that" big, and I know the wheels are not going to fall apart, and in the event I had to put the car over the pits it would pass with no problems etc etc, I might be tempted to spend a little extra and buy the originals

Hi. Here's a question for all you wheels guru's out there Are there original and copy Starcorp wheels ? What I mean is, are the Starcorp wheels that like Tempe Tyres sell copies or originals ? I know they're made in China but is there like an "Original" Starcorp wheel made in like Germany or Japan or something ?? If there are genuine's, anyone got a linky ?? Only reason I ask is that I have seen Starcorp wheels for sale in America that look slightly different / better than the ones available in Aus. Cheers.

My 2 cents....... Get a really good job that pays really well and then find a good mechanic and pay him / her to do the work for you !!!!!!! Learning to "tinker" with cars is great fun and yes a GOOD tool set is essential. Changing a cat-back or sparkies or brake pads is fun, but when it comes to all the crap jobs, just hand over the keys the $'s and let someone else do all the ing. Do a car maintenance / familiarization course and just tinker This is the opinion of a person who's been a licensed mechanic since 1988

Still got it !! Anyone interested in making an offer ?

Cheers for that. Actually, all the wheels have the same ET 17 mark so I'm not sure what that means. The 8" ones have different makings from the 9" ones which I've updated in the first post.

Price drop. First post amended and PM's will be sent to those who were interested.

I should have some new wheels next week so throw some more offers my way These will be up for sale very soon.

I've got to say, I think you're getting screwed around !! I find it a bit hard to believe that Hi-Tech is doing this to you but it sure seems like it !! At a guess, the resonator they put in sounds like it is a "hot dog" which will do very little to quiet the system down. The better resonators are usually oval shaped. As for the 2.5 inch being too big on an N/A thing...... I don't agree. My car makes 80db at 4600rpm at the moment ( no drone ) with the factory system on a non-turbo. I have a Fujitsubo Legalis R cat back system on order and Fujitsubo states that the sound will increase from 80db to 84db and the main pipe section is mandrel bent stainless in 70mm diameter which is "2.7 inch" diameter. Now this is yet to be proven but being Fujitsubo, I believe that it will be close to that. Also, I used to have a 2.75 inch mild steels, press bent system on my Escort ( many years ago ) and the engine was wild but the exhaust note was tough and deep but very livable so I'm a firm believer that it can be done. And again, get a magnet and if it sticks to any part of the system, It's not stainless steel !! If any part of the system is NOT stainless ( and you were told it was a full stainless system ) go back and get them to build the system again, and properly or give you your money back. If you do get your money back ( unlikely ), save a bit more and get a proper Jap Cat back system to suit your car. If you don't, then you might have to get an engineers report on what you've got fitted and seek legal advice or just keep going back until you're happy. Oh, and shoving pipes inside pipes is only going to restrict the system and take you back to where you were. And I'd just like to say that I'm NOT the guru of exhausts !! "But" I've learned that with imports, its heaps better to save a bit longer and spending a bit more to get a proven, quality made Jap system. Considering that they do all the R & D, you know that you're going to get what you want / paid for. Anyway, good luck !

Just call them up and tell them that you're not happy at all with what's been done and you're getting a headache from it etc etc and you'd like it fixed !! ( not by shoving a silencer in the tip ). More than likely they'll put a big resonator in the pipe shortly after the cat to quiet it down. And no, yopu should not have to pay any more $'s for whatever is needed to fix the problem "properly". If you don't get any joy from that, PM me.

Hmmm..... That doesn't sound good. I guess you could give it a month or 2 and see if it's what you want or not. Usually an exhaust will change it's note a little bit ( but not much ) as it gets some carbon buildup inside. But if it's way too loud for you right now ( it's prol illegal too if it's that loud ), you should give it back and nicely say "Not Happy" and get it fixed. If their solution is to install a silencer in the tip, don't accept it as it might put you back to square one ( being restrictive ). Another "Hmmmmm" is the round stainless muffler........... I've only ever seen an "oval" stainless muffler come out of Hi-Tech ( but I could be wrong ). Anyway, go get a strong magnet and if it sticks to any part of your new system, it ain't stainless !! As for performance, you prol won't feel any major difference since your factory system should not have been that bad to start with. In an N/A car the improvement is much less than in a turbo ( IMO ). The proof would be in a dyno run before and after but you'd have to be pretty good to honestly pick the difference by the seat of your pants. Um, if you wanted your original exhaust back you prol should have told them before they started because they will often hack / gas axe it to bits on removal since it's quicker. If you say you want to keep it they'll remove it properly.

That's just sad huh ?!?! I bet ACA would like to get a hold of that story though Pitty the poor person who buys it !!