TokyoTaxi

SOLD !

$130.

At $300 ?? Anyone ?? bump

Thanks for the interest guys but as of this Saturday it should be sold. Should this purchase fall through I'll be contacting the others who have bidded.

Sale pending.

I can't help you with a HKS one but I do have a virtually new Blitz Super Sound DD Blow of Valve kit to suit an R34 GT-T if you're interested. Still in the box. Asking $350.

Cool. Just make sure it's done by February 04

Now that's what I call a great package deal ! That would make such a wicked track car.

The injectors I'm getting are from Perfectrun. The brand name they are sold under is "Power Enterprise" They are 550cc and are high impedance and I've been assured 100% that other than the ECU reprogram, they are a direct replacement for the stock ones. Now, the ouch point ! The price for these injectors is $1,300 ( plus freight ) for a set of 6. :freak:

EXPENSIVE ! ( But heaps of fun ).

Rezz, Once I figure out what I'm doing and who's going I'll drop you a line for sure and we'll catch up for a beer. Maybe, you can show me ( and any others ) some different sights. I know one thing I want to do when I get there is hit a couple of "Up Garage"s ( and Super Autobacs )

Steve, From what I've heard ( extensive nagging for info ) at around 1.2bar looking for 230ish rwkw's the injectors are restrictive and at their limits which "can" produce a "lean out" in the engine and cause damage so I think I'll lean to the side of caution and go ahead with the injectors. Thanks anyways for the suggestion

Shane, You can not go wrong with an intercooler upgrade ( so long as you're getting something good ). Because the FMIC will cool your engine's intake charge better than a stock cooler, you will get better fuel economy and more power for the fuel you use. The only possible down side I can think of is that the responsiveness of the turbo may deminish slightly. Just my 2cents

Well, I've bitten the bullet. I found out that there are injectors available ( ex Japan ) that will fit into an RB20DET without ANY modifications other than ECU resetting on the dyno so I've ordered a set. Thanks for everyone's help and I now know a lot more about nissan injectors.

I've never known a BOV to cause stalling problems unless it's actually faulty. From what I understand, the factory ECU depends on the recirculation of the blown-off air and meter's fuel accordingly. If you reamove the blown-off air, the fuel is too much and the engine will stall. Yes, some Apexi gear should fix this problem.

I think it might end up being a pointless exercise since it'll probably cost more than it's worth to send it to you. Thanks anyways

I went this year ( Feb 03 ) and I should be going again next Feb if all goes well. The year before I went to the Auto Salon in Tokyo but that's just too packed for me. You know, you probably did see me there. I think I was causing a bit of a disturbance by drawing the promo girls away from the hungry flocks of Japanese camera jockey's. He, he. Got some great pictures from that trip. I've got a mate who lives over there called Alan then another mate called Gary who also joined us. 2 Aussies and a Greek in Japan, way too funny !

CR34TION, The sound is actualy quite crisp sharp. Does not sound like a Turbosmart one ( eg. no big bawoosh noise ). As for stalling, the only way you can get around that is to plumb the blow-off gasses back into the inlet. You could do it with this BOV but you'd have to make a flange and pipe to suit ( would not be hard at all but then you don't get the noise ). Alternatively, if your ECU is programable, you can simply change the settings slightly for idle and away you go.

Rezz, I was talking to one guy at the Osaka Auto Messe who spoke english rather well and that's where I got most of my info from. Didn't really talk to any workshops etc. about this subject. ( Don't speak enough Japanese to hold a conversation ). I love the conversion from RB to SR it just makes so much sense and it looked awesome in his red drift R32 !!

I've got a Blow Off Valve for sale. It's a BLITZ Super Sound DD ( Dual Drive ) kit. It comes with 2 different outlets and all the bits required for fitment ( and the box it all came in ). The kit is for an R34 GT-T but will go on an R32 and probably an R33 without any hassels. The condition of everything is virtually new. Asking $350. ( This valve selling in most stores for $450 ).

I purchased this NEW fibreglass copy of a NISMO rear lip from JMS in SA a little while ago but I've decided I'm not going to fit it so make me an offer. I paid $195. I'm in NSW. Sorry no digi pics as I don't have a camera but check out JMS' website if you wany to see what it looks like.

I saw this conversion done in Japan while I was over there ( Osaka ) and it seems the main reason for doing this RB to SR swap is for race or drift purposes. The main thing is that when an SR is fitted, there's so much room between the radiator and the engine that you can bring the radiator and intercooler back into the engine bay for protection against front end damage. Most of the ones I saw then ducted the air path up through the bonnet which keeps the air heated air flow away from the engine itself but about 1/3 of the air hitting the front of the car actually goes into the engine bay. One of the guys I spoke to over there also swears by the reduction in front end weight and the great change in weight distribution. So if your RB is dead, go an SR instead !

Dr Drift, This is something I've been wanting to do for a while but nobody can tell me what happens to the residual hydraulic lines that normally connect to the rear rack ?

Tex, Believe me, once you've gotten over the race track fear factor and the belief that you car match a touring car's lap times you will be praying for rain. It's awesome fun ! Turn 9 at the creek in the wet is just too much fun ( not forgetting 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10, 11 & 12 !!!! ). Turn 1 in the wet is just a little scary unless your name is Pete ( Fatz ) who just seems to close his eyes and floor it. As for what benm said, it's well worth taking that advice to heart. The worst thing in the world would coming out of turn 1 and not having brakes cause the wall at turn 2 in REALLY hard

Tex & Grim, You'll have a blast at Eastern Creek so long as you remember, IT'S NOT A RACE. You go out with the slow group and cruise. Then you build up a bit of speed in your second or third session and see how you go. There's no point in trying to fly when you're not even sure if you're car has wings ! Take it from me, it's not the race track that causes crashes. It's the idiot who thinks he's a great driver. Wakefield is a great little track which is very hard to drive around well ( fast ). Oran Park is where most drivers ( including myself ) start to look a little worried at the beginning of a track day, but like any track day, you drive to your abilities and simply get better after each session and day you do. Don't stress. Just have fun and keep your head screwed on