TokyoTaxi

Yeah, the GTO is what gets my juices flowing, but that EVO thing

I know it's nothing special but for the sake of keeping the thread on topic

OK so lets run through how the cooling system works in a NEO RB25. From cold, the engine warms up to operating temp ( rather quickly to ~80C ) and the coolant in the radiator is still at ~ ambient. There might be a tiny bit of coolant at operating temp that flows through the bleed hole in the thermostat but essentially, the engine temp is ~80C and the coolant in the radiator is ~ambient. Now, the thermostat starts to open and allow hot water out of the engine and into the radiator. By virtue of that action, the ~ambient temp coolant is moved from the radiator back into the engine through the bottom hose ( all good so far ? ) Now, if the engine's operating temp is ~80C and ambient should be below freezing, when the thermostat opens, the COLD coolant is now flowing back into the engine block which is ~80C. Only when the COLD coolant has passed through the engine ( absorbing heat along the way ) and reached the thermostat would the thermostat close ( still on track ? ). By this time, could the coolant have caused any thermal damage around the entry point in the block ? After a small amount of research I found the following which seems to support my theory: ARC FLOW CONTROL THERMOSTAT This thermostat was produced for the purpose of preventing sudden coolant temperature change. Three gaps on the newly invented valve control coolant flow properly. SARD COOLING THERMO Cooling Thermo prevents overheat and power down on high power engines by keeping coolant temperature around 68C. This thermostat has special flow control valve in it, and this valve prevents sudden temperature change of coolant, which might damage the engine or radiator. Now I know that this situation ( driving around in below zero temps ) is not common, but my 1st question is, is thermal shock possible in this scenario with such an efficient radiator ? My second question is: If the answer to the first question is yes, and the fix is one of the above thermostats, would fitting one of these and effectively reducing the engine's operating temp by ~10C have any adverse effects on the engine's performance as controlled by the stock ECU ( which expects the engine to reach ~80C ) ? So to put it another way, will the ECU treat the engine as if it's still warming up and not at operating temp and run it rich ? Sorry for the ultra long post but I hope that makes things clearer. P.S. When I used to work on race cars, we never used to have a thermostat fitted. We used to run a restrictor in place of the thermostat and "part" of the reason was ( I was taught ) to prevent thermal shock when racing in cold climates.

OK, so yeah, the thermostat lets the hot water out of the engine & into the radiator right ? So by virtue of that, cool water must enter the engine from the radiator right ? If the engine is hot ( operating temp = 80 deg C in a NEO ) and the water re-entering the engine is "cold", could it cause thermal shock ? The reason I posed this question is that when I fitted the Koyo and we went for a 15 min test drive, we pulled straight over and opened the bonnet and I felt the top tank and it was hot as you'd expect. I then touched the bottom tank and it was still cool. This got me thinking, if he went down to Wakefield for a track day during winter ( often gets below zero ), could the engine suffer thermal shock ? If the answer is yes, would a NISMO thermostat be an acceptable option the reduce the difference between the engines operatng temp and the coolant temp in the radiator on say a 0 deg day ? Then, would fitting the NISMO thermostat cause any operating issues ? ( keeping in mind that a NISMO thermostat opens at 20 deg C lower than the OEM NEO item ). Hope that makes sense

Due to my unusual taste, that Ferrari in the first pic ( whatever it is ) is the one that gives me a complete woody !!! I would so love to open my garage and see that ! ( next to the GMS R32 )

I recently put a 53mm Koyo radiator in a mates R34GTt for him and all is well, but it actually works SO well it has me wondering if there's a chance of thermal shock when winter sets in ? I know that the RB25DET NEO has a thermostat that opens at 82 Deg C, so I could put a NISMO one in and drop that to 62 Deg C which would lessen the effect but would that in turn change the efficiency of the engine ? ( he uses it as a daily + occasional track day ) I could put an OEM Non-NEO one in but that would only drop the opening temp by 5.5 Deg C ( to 76.5 Deg C ) so I don't think that would help. Or, am I just worrying about nothing ? ( He's spent a bit on his car so I'd hate to see him wind up with a cracked block etc ) Anyway, some opinions from those in the know would be greatly appreciated.

So you removed a set of NEW OEM coilpacks and installed a set of NEW Splitfires and gained 7kw ? Or, did you replace your 8ish year old OEM coilpacks with new Splitfires and gained 7wk ?

+1

You're correct that there's no "logical way" that putting NEW Splitfire coilpacks in could increase my fuel consumption but that's exactly what happened. As for seeing a mechanic, I am one and have been since 1988 so I'm not quite a newby. Happy to hear some suggestions tho At the time I put the coilpacks in, I installed a set of Irridium plugs at 1.1mm gap. I then removed the ECU fault code ( 21 ). I'm almost certain I re-set the ECU but I was working on 3 cars at once so I'm a bit fuzzy on that detail. Anyway, when the fuel economy issue arose, I started searching this forum and stubled across a thread ( can't find it again ) in which a few people discussed issues with new Splitfire coilpacks which were rectified by fittng new OEM coilpacks. I started searching further ( google ) and found that many japanese tuners favour OEM coilpacks over Splitfires and so on. Anyway, Splitfires are great for th price and maybe I got a "not great" set ? Anyway, when I get some spare time I'll start looking into it more.

PMS ?? did I emphasise that enough????? lol again and more lol But seriously, I'm glad you've had no ill effects from "your" Splitfire coilpacks, but others have ( including myself ), and have documented it. Some big HP applications have replaced their Splitfires with new OEM coilpacks and have "gained" power. Anyway, I can live with the fuel economy I have so long as petrol doesn't get too much more expensive.

1. I only found out about genuine vs. a/market coil packs "after" I installed mine. It seems there are quite a number of people who have found out that genuine coil packs are superior in every way to other direct replacements ( including Splitfire ). 2. If your cars not running right at idle ( let alone everywhere else ) you can chew up a large amount of fuel sitting there doing nothing. Usually, the indication that this is a problem is a sluggish take-off or miss-fire. Also, pronounced popping in the exhaust on low speed decel can indicate an idle fuel problem. 3. I would LOVE to see fuel consumption figures like yours ! BTW, how much did you advance your timing ?

I WAS getting good fuel economy until I had a fualty coil pack and changed the set to some new Splitfires. Fuel economy dropped by about 80-100 km per tank When these coils die, I'm putting genuine ones back in. edit: was getting ~500km per tank around town & 600km on hwy.

Still lookin'

I'm in the shire so I'll keep an eye out. BTW, have you looked into the location of where the ute backed out from ? If it was from a house or shop maybe the cops can go in and ask some questions there. Unfortunately, what you've described is one of many possibilities on the road at the moment. Hope your mate's OK.

lol, I know it should'nt make any difference, otherwise I would'nt have installed them but I just thought it was a bit strange. Usually the inner disc surface is thicker as it cops more of a hiding than the outer surface. Was just making an observation and posing a question that you might pass on to RDA next time you happen to chat with them ? All in all though, the slotted & dimpled rotors are With the QFM pads fitted and only 60km's clocked up they are already an improvement on the brakes I had.

Got mine and fitted em ( cheers Rianto ). Just wondering if there's any logic for the following. The factory front discs are thicker on the inside than the outside but the RDA's are the other way around. Can't think of why this would be....... Cool upside is that the rear discs have jacking hose where factory ones don't

As above. Want to buy a factory R34 GTT Radiator Shroud. Prefer local Sydney south - south west suburbs seller. Let me know Cheers, Scott.

R34 GT-V Key but it's the same as the GTT.

^ = Surely SAU alone would keep them in the black

So, 2 weeks on and no news ? BTW, do you still have our money or do they ?

Hi, Did a bit of a search but didn't come up with much so..... Just hoping someone might know the answers to the following Q's. How thick is the core of an R34 GTT radiator ( manual trans ) ? How thick is the core of an R34 GT-R radiator ? Are they interchangeable ? ( I don't think so ( for some reason ) but would like confirmation ) Please only answer if you "know" the answer Cheers.

There's the piece of the puzzle I was looking for ! Cheers.

Out of interest sake, what happens from here ? Do you know if they have the parts ready to send ? or do they have to make them first ? Just curious as to when things are supposed to happen. Cheers

Umm.... You have a GTT sedan so your floor pan is and I have the same floor pan. And yet you can install any skyline seat in your car ? but your car is different being a GTT right !?!I appreciate the responses but now I'm more confused

I think you're right Howie. That thread on NS is questionable. I had a quick look at a bride rail in a R34 GTt coupe and mine looks like the same fitment so Coupe & Sedan are different rail fitment and this one should fit the coupe no probs. Anyway, like I said, I'll test fit the rail for the buyer to be 100% sure.