Victory

I had to replace my exhaust manifold studs at only 100k because two of the had simply broken off and I do not even drive that hard. A track day would create enough heat to expand the studs to the point where the nuts could come loose. OEM exhaust studs are known for their inability to cope with the heat and it is common to have to replace them. As "giant" has suggested the use of lock tabs would also help and provide that extra level of security.

I have the R33 Series II factory broacher and price list and the model names are not as simple at they appear. The turbo coupe versions are: GTS 25 T Type M (This is the one with the V-Spec active diff and cost 3,567,000 yen) GTS 25 T Type M Spec II GTS 25 T Type M Spec I As I cannot read Japanese I do not understand what the difference is between the Spec II and Spec I models – they even cost the same 3,007,000 yen.

104.37 now that is seriously quick!

Put me down for a copy please.

Mate I am afraid that you are dreaming. The last three sets of R33 rims that I have purchased were all in the $100 to $150 price range. With $150 including near new tyres.

My R33 GTR was complied back in 1999 and it has always had four rear parkers and four rear brake lights (the way it should be). My GTS-T was only complied recently and only has the outside two brake lights. From the discussion in this thread I am now going to pull the rear lights apart on it to see if it will also be an easy fix to have all four brake lights working.

I use Redline Shockproof Light in my R33 Series II GTS-T. This oil is recommended by many enthusiests as it helps the synchro's when they are getting a bit tired. It is expensive at about $140 for 4 litres but you get what you pay for and it comes out looking as good and clean as it goes in. I always warm up my Skylines before I drive them and the changes are then always easy as the oil is warm. Skylines do not like being below 2k in any gear except first and generate a degree of growning as a result.

My offer of $900 is still on the table if you want to sell them.

I run 265/35ZR18 on 18 x 9 rims and they fit perfectly. The only problem is that the OD is 644 mm and is a fraction small when the correct OD is 650. This means your actual speed is about 5km less that what your speedo shows. This is what most car companies do so that you are just under the speed limit. I was running 245/40ZR18 on 18 x8 with an OD of 651 which gave me the exact speed on the speedo in both the GTR and GTS-T. I was going to go for 275/35ZR18 to get back to an OD of 649 but Toyo only had 2 in the country and were hoping to get in another 6 in July. Even though they would have been the exact tyre for the car if they are that rare then if you stuffed one it would be a real pain to try and replace it.

"What are the new tyres you are putting on?" I have gone for some more Toyo T1R's in 265/35ZR18. I run these on my GTR and they provide good grip especially in the wet with their open tread pattern. The only draw back is that they are noisy which simply means turning up the sterio.

I went to the event with street legal tyres and this is what I came home with this. No wonder I could not put the power down on the back track in the tight bits. Tyre problem now solved with a nice new set - glad I did not replace them before the event.

I have a R33GTR that has all four lights on for parking and again for brake lights (this is a pre RAWS import). My R33GTS-T has four lights for parkers and only the outside two for brake lights (it is a RAWS import).

The car is now really taking shape. Bumblebee is great name for her.

You have PM regarding drivers power window switch and surround.

I had a great time at yet another well organised NSW SAU event - Well done to all of the organisers. I only had one gripe for the day and that was the gravel that was on some corners on the back track. It meant hanging the arse out every time you came around and loosing time until the wheel spin finally stopped (and when you are an old fart like me you cannot afford to loose time compared to all of the young guys). When we have an event there next year I will take down my heavy duty blower and before the event starts spend some time blowing the gravel off the road (my portable hurricane should do that just fine). Again thanks to all for a great day.

"From a tank" is a very open statement - how much fuel are you actually putting in? What is your actual consumption in litres per 100 km? I have my R33 GTS-T tuned to get an amasing 10 litres / 100km (although most of this is highway running). My R33 GTR uses between 15 and 20 litres / 100km depending on how excited I get. Fuel type can also impact your consumption, I use BP Ultimate in the GTS-T and Shell V-Power Racing (100 Octane) in the GTR.

Hey guys you have 2 more starters Clinton and I will be heading down this afternoon and we will see you bright and early in the morning to register and pay.

Welcome to the Skyline family. That car has had some serious money spent on the interior. The front seats are from a GTR and normally go for $1k second hand (I should know as I put some in my GTS-T).

That sounds like the oil is too thick which is making the pressure very high when it is cold. Skylines like oil in the 10-40 or 7.5-40 range only and synthetic if you can afford it. The best is Motul Chrono 10-40 but it is nearly $100 for 4 litres.

The basic door structure is the same but there are some differences on the inside. The interior trim is different and the window switch and and relay unit are also different. So if you can install your interior parts onto the door then all should be OK.

How can the car have no compliance plates if it is displaying NSW rego plates in the attached pictures?

That sux - Paulr33 V-Power Racing 5 seconds away. I have to travel 90km to buy it so when I do I tend to bring home a bootfull of containers.

In my GTS-T daily driver I have used both Shell V-Power and BP Ultimate and it runs better on the BP Ultimate and I even get better fuel enonomy as an added bonus. In my GTR I run Shell V-Power Racing (100 Octane) because the GTR loves it and she is more responsive right through the rev range. This stuff is hard to get and it costs more but for a limited use car it is worth the extra hassle and extra cost.

Location?

Location???