Victory

When you consider that this was the first time that the car has been run anywhere in anger apart from on the dyno it was a very successful day. It ran strong all day and all of the key systems performed perfectly (the only exception was a minor oil leak from the gearbox that was easily fixed when it happened). Now that it has passed this initial test with flying colours the next step is to make the car more driveable. Improving the aero with a front splitter and air ducting and a rear wing will improve stability as will some minor suspension tuning. The inclusion of a passengers seat so that Stuart can take an experienced passenger to provide track knowledge and input into setup changes will also help in the development phase. I could not believe the amount of interest the car created every time it was on the track - as soom as people heard it on full noise they became interested in it because it just sounded that good. The most amazing thing is that out of the box it is VERY good with development it will only improve - well done Stuart.

Hey Eugene Please put me down for a set without the HP coating. D12 extractors ~AUD$180-190 F124 gasket ~AUD$10-15 Shipping (track and trace) to Australia ~AUD$110-120 Please PM me your bank details so I can give you a deposit to move this along - this the last main component that I need to complete my build to get my car on the road.

Thanks to SAU exec's for organising another great track day as we both had a great time. The time we put into car prep paid off with a split hose on the boost controller the only issue for the day and once I found where the hiss was coming from a simple fix. A big thank you to: Gary Baxter for his advice on tyre pressures because it made quite a difference to grip levels. Ando (S13Deviat) for showing me the correct lines and braking points Chris (evil weevil) for showing Clinton some good lines and braking points – to the point where the old 626 was going quicker that it should have been We now cannot wait for the next track day and we have renewed enthusiasm to put more effort into proper oil management work on the R33's so they can see more track time.

The main challenge is that the GTR has a nut built into the sub-frame that the hanger attaches to. There is no capacity to get to behind the spot to place a nut to attach the hanger to. We solved this by having a mechanic friend (BezerkR32) install a cavity nut in the subframe in just the right spot. If you do not have access to someone with one of these special tools to insert the nut you have no way of installing the hanger.

My son recently put a R32 GTR tank into a GTS and it is not as simple as it looks. The basic tank is a simple fit and one of the GTR tank support straps fits straight on. The other is in a different location on a GTR and there was some degree of work involved in relocating the mounting brackets to the correct location to match to tank.

This is a factory feature of the ECU to protect your motor when it is cold. Until you have reached the expected operating temp it places a number of restrictions on the level of advance of the timing and other paramaters to stop you from working the engine too hard while it is cold. If it runs well when it has warmed up then all is good as it is only doing what it was designed to do - it does become a problem though if it does not run crisp after it has warmed up and that is when there is something wrong that needs investigation and fixing.

I am very interested in a set for a R32 skyline with a RB25DE engine with a 2.5 inch outlet. Please contract me by PM re payment details and price.

Door trims and rear seat sold to me.

Hey Stuart is the rumour correct that you are chasing more killer wasps so that Bumble Bee will behave like a real "sprint car" and lift the front wheels off the ground under acceleration?

Payment made - PM replied.

Interested in the GTR reo - can you arrange postage to Wollongong? Please PM my with a price.

I have only had good experiences with Redline Shockproof oils in my R33 GTS-T. I run Shockproof Heavy in the diff and it has tightened up the diff quite nicely. I also tried it in the diff of my R33 GTR but it tightened the diff up too much to the point where it was becoming more of a locker so I swapped it over the Motul instead. I have used Shockpreef light in my GTS-T gearbox with no problems. It seemed to smooth out the synchros and improves gear changes. I change my drive train lubricants every 20k and they come out nice and clean. My son then reuses the shockproof light in the gesrbox of his Mazda 626 with no problems. Redline oils are expensive and these are my experiences.

I will take four sets please for my tribe of cars - please PM me payment details.

Some pictures would be nice.

That looks like a convex lens that has been stuck on the mirror. If there is discolouration between this and the mirror then I would have a go at pealing it off the the glass. To remove the glass from the housing you pull the bottom of the glass towards you to unhook the bottom clip then you slide the mirror down to release the top clip. Mirror glass is either flat or convex (both drivers and passengers sides depending on what system the vehicle was complianced under). My GTR does not have heated mirrors but my GTS-T came from Hokkaido and has heated glass.

I cannot believe how nice the exhaust looks - cannot wait to hear this thing come to life for the first time. Clinton and I will have to come over and check out the steering stops that you have made as we will have to build the same for his car.

Bearings are not affected by the diamater of wheels but are affected by the offset of wheels. The increased diamater still places the stress in the same plane because the tyres that you use are lower profile so the tread area is in the same place as the original smaller diamater wheels. Wheel offset is a different matter as the wheel can go either further in of further out depending on offset and this then places more stress on either the inner or outer wheel bearing. If you go for larger width wheels and can retain the same offset as your original wheels (or close to it) then again there is no increase in bearing load. This situation offen happend with Silvias when you put on a wide bidy kit with wide wheels that just go out to fill up the wider guards - this places additional stress on the wheel bearings.

Rear cradle sold to me The shell and doors are in good condition if you are looking for these parts.

Sold to me.

Very interested if you are in NSW

I cannot believe that you could do 60 kph in fifth without labouring the motor. My GTR loves to rev and I would very seldom get above third gear around town at 60 kph. One of the keys to fuel economy is to not labour the motor and to keep it in the rev range where it has boost just starting to come on. I just got 580 km from my current tank with the fuel light just starting to come on and I more than keep up with traffic.

Just paid for 2 tickets - see you in the corporate box.

You have PM

Received and installed in the GTR. It looks so factory that no one would ever think that it was after market. Thanks again.

Yeah getting some leverage is the go. I was lucky in that I put mine up on a mates hoist - made it quite easy then to use a longer bar. One other thing just make sure that you are turning the plug the correct way - dumber things have happened.