Simon-S14

let us know how it all pans out

thread tape has a tendency to work loose or deteriorate over time, it should never be used for oil feed anyway as the banjo washers is what seals it, or if your using dash fittings use a liquid pipe sealant instead. as for what caused the prob, i dont think we're going to know until its stripped down so maybe wait and see what GCG have to say. hopefully they are more helpful then ATS who i might add, are a bunch of dickheads, a mate of mine had a turbo rebuilt by them, and it didnt last one track day. they then refused to repair ir under warrenty as they suspected there was an oil supply issue, where there was not.

yeah its a subtle trim, and the bottom locator studs have been cut off so that it also sits further forward. i'm thinking i might have to go forward yet even more....

Done some more... car is even more stripped now lol but getting there, all rubbed back and ready for paint work, Paint will be done next weekend hopefully so decided to pull the glass out to make it easier to paint + cage work also. Drilled the holes for riveting on the guards. took a bit of time to make sure it lines up ok. gonna look pretty good and flush once its done Made my own tailshaft too with the help of Scotty rowe who machined up a sleeve for me. its basically cut and shut together as the s14 front section of the tailshaft is 450mm from flange to uni center and this just so happened be the exact length i needed for the RB25 box, so we cut the s14 yoke off and machined up a sleeve with a step on it which was a tight fit for the tubing, knocked it into the shaft and then knocked the yoke onto the sleeve so its all dead straight. then ran a weld around it. this is pretty much how i did the one in my R32 and also jake jones Sil80. no issues at all and dont worry about balancing since its such a short shaft. Massive thanks to Paul Sil-014 and Scotty Rowe for their help in the past week,

email sent mate

depends if its RWD or 4wd. If its a RWD motor then they are pretty much the same, Theres a couple of different things on the motor to suit auto's tho but this is no problem. However if its 4wd theres a fair bit more work to make it fit in your 33.

you'll find that the wires you cant get to might be easier to get to from under the car? also, on the alternator side of the loom, you can leave that on the motor and just seperate it from the fusebox at its various connections, this will save you some skinned knuckles

im guessing it has something to do with the ECU your running.... exactally what tho. im unsure of.

the KE was awesome fun both to drive and to build. However i never felt comfortable driving it. i think i much prefer the longer wheelbase style drift and missed driving the 32... So instead of building the 32 back up (as i still have it) i wanted to go with an s14, as they are a better chassis then the s13 and 32's. plus parts are everywhere. Should be fun as hell!

depends on the tuner. When mine was tuned, it made more power everywhere in the rev range, so a loss of midrange was not noticed or even evident at all when compared to the stock map. that said ive driven some set ups with utterly shit tunes on them and they feel like a dog to drive down low but go hard up top. thats because theres plenty of tuners out there who are shit at anything but focusing on WOT maps.

when i was looking, there was nothing lol. seems to be a few around now. If you make something, and its easy to use, people will buy it! even if its more then the jaycar ones. The one i have has dip switches for setting various hertz ranges for either rpm or voltage imputs. its complex to set up.

New radiator and Cooler mounted now anyway, got the rad fitted, and fits sweet as. i ended up having to trim a section out of the top rad support, theres a stack of room at the bottom for clearance but not much at top in terms of fan clearance. However once trimmed, now there is

oh sorry i read wrong. Personally i would just remap a 32 ecu, disregard the lack of VCT as once the ecu is tuned the loss of VCT is not at all noticable

you dont need a Z32 afm for 200 rwkw and stock turbo, just nistune the board with stock afm and it will be sweet

yes first up, put the car where you'll have room to manouver a crane around in front of it, then put the front on stands and take the bonnet off. makes life SO much easier. another tip. its always easy to remove stuff like injectors OUT the car rather then while in the car, si i would have left them well alone until the motor was out and sitting on the ground.

ive got a product which i bought a few years back for a customers car for a different purpose. We used it to switch LPG on and off at a specified RPM windown for a turbo diesel patrol. i'll grab a photo if you want.

well it does sound very much like a turbo

Rough specs atm Engine/drivetrain: RB25det NEO with R33 5 speed 3037S turbo AM Performance high mount manifold HKS 38mm gate braided lines NISTUNE ecu turned by Jeff The Speed Lab 50mm R32 alloy rad ISC Intercooler Bosch 044 pump 650cc injectors r33 Throttle body Splitfires + hks sparkplugs R34 Crossmember with custom engine mounts and brackets 4 puck Exedy racing clutch KAAZ 2way lsd Custom tailshaft (made by me) Suspension/brakes: 8/6 JIC FLT-TAR coilovers, body adjustable NP Racing steering knuckles NP Racing offcet 20mm rack spacer (effectivly simulates moving the rack forward 20mm) My own modded s14 LCA's S15 brakes front and rear D2 castor rods (about to be scrapped, Cazman ones on the way) Cazman traction rods Cusco rear camber arms Cusco toe arms Modified subframe and raised up GTR rear sway bar Hydro handbrake Braided brake and clutch lines Wheels: 17X9.5 +3 front 18X9.5 -7 rear Body: Origin front bar Origin front guards +25mm Origin rear overfenders +50mm Vertex rear bar Seamwelded and AM Performance Roll Cage. Expected power: roughly after 280-300 rwkw. Manifold in pics below is just a crappy Ebay manifold... not the finished AM Performance manifold. this project is not yet finished and is a little while off yet, i will update it as i go. Copy past from ns.com I'm bringing back an old Drift car from SA... and this time its going to be driven properly and harder then the previous owners did This is Madcaps old car and i plan on building it and driving it into something more of an animal that it was back in its day For those of you tuning in late.... i used to be into sprinters (owned 3 of them) then got me a ceffy from Darren Appleton. which i absolutely loved. going to longer wheel base really suited me and i threw this car around like all f**k... even won a comp in it and it was the most basic set up car you could ask for... had coilovers... lsd... 200 rwkw and that was it lol. then i got the 32. spent some time and money on her and it was also an awesome car.... served me well so reliable and i still have it too! was so so so so much fun to drive and i never broke anything on it. needed to buy a house... this meant selling a car... could not sell the 32 so i sold all the parts off it and turned it back into a street car. bought my house and the drift bug was still there so i built up my daily KE (didnt need a daily any more cause i got a work van then) the KE turned into a bit of an animal and came out quit well. However every time i drove it i just wasnt happy with it or my driving. i kept changing stuff but i got to the point where i realised that the snappy nature of the KE didnt suit my driving style. soooooooo.... i sold it! took a week to sell and i couldnt believe it haha. yes my shed looks like a bomb site atm... thats another work in progress also. the gay blue is going... it will be painted ATC red (same as my rolla and jakes car) All Type Crash and AM Performance will be backing me and expect decent things! got an RB25 with a 3037s turbo kit, high mount manifold, hks gate and screamer happening.

they only say these things to cover their own arse... not because its the right thing to do or not. in the few motors ive rebuilt and had rebuilt, ive loaded them up from the word go, run mineral oil for the first 1000 kms and then straight to synthetic oil. its not a complex process, yet some people/builders believe that a motor is still running in some 2000 km later... no its not.

thanks for clarifying that. now i just need a 33 TB. anyone got one?

20 should cover it.

bump, would like parts gone asap to clear out shed space

Ive got a 32 clutch peddle which has been welded up and plated to make it stronger to resist breaking, which they are prone to doing with heavy clutches. $50 for it Ebay style high mount manifold. Never used, dont need it as im going a custom style manifold. $50 Gauge cluster from 32 $50 Stock 25 log mani $20 I can post all items at buyers expense. all items in good condition. contact me via PM or sms 0409 567 603 Located in Adelaide SA.

Ok, ive got power at all those pins, except number 4 has power when the ign is off and then when ign is turned on, the main 6 pin relay clicks and this pin has no power, when you turn the car off the main 6 pin relay switches off after 2 sec's and pin 4 has 12V again.Im unsure if this is normal operation or not, The ECU pin out says that pin 4 is the Control wire for the main relay and looking at the circuit diagram it make sense as its on the coil side of the relay. anyhow all the other pins have power when they should, and earth pins have earth except for pin 115 which is "Overrun clutch solenoid valve" not sure if needed or not. Still no fuel pump prime tho! so i disconnected the starter and helded the key in the start pos thinking the ECU may need to see a start signal before it primes, but nothing. At this stage im thinking the ecu may be stuffed? Though i would take the CAS off and with the ignition ON i turned the cas by hand and all the injectors and clicking as they should... i figure that is a damn good sign that the ecu is ok. So there we have it, everything suggests that the car should run, but theres no fuel pump running to allow the motor to run. Fustrating! Motor is currently turbo-less so unable to test starting it. im wondering if i just permantly earth out the fuel pump control wire if it would run or not? But im a fan of doing things properly and i figure if it isnt working i need to find out why, and fix it.

Ok after going over the circuit diagram i'm slightly even more lost. the 3 relays i have only one is powering up and thats the 6 pin one for the ign coil and ecu relay. The other two, are doing not much, i dont even know what they are for. On the diagram the fuel pump relay pin 1 see's the fuel pump control wire from pin 13 on the ECU. i tried testing for conduity between pin 13 and pin 1 on the relay plug, and all the other pins, on both plugs and i got nothing. same deal with back tracing pin 5 on the ignition relay plug, it's suppose to go to pin out 31 on the ECU but it doesnt on these relay pins. the other thing i noticed is that the fuel pump relay is switched by the ecu and supplys positive power to the fuel pump. which is the opposite to all other models of nissans where its switched by the ecu and the earth is supplied to the fuel pump. not getting anywhere here lol Also im not sure if my loom and ecu is from an Auto or manual set up. heres a couple pics anyway.