Simon-S14

got my set up dynoed yesterday and had a few issues... mainly the good old missfires and then the gate decided to stay stuck open, pulled it apart and cleaned it out and was ok after that. however its painfully slow to build boost and the boost graph looks like a gradual slope instead of ramping up and staying there. Im running a bleed valve on there atm and im led to believe that an EBC should be the way to go. however we tested the spring from the HKS gate and its only a 0.6 bar item... not quite the 1 bar one i thought it was. So its quite soft and i dont think that a ebc will cope with running over double the rated spring pressure. if i got a 1 bar spring, will it ramp up harder? considering the spring is slowly opening now as it builds boost i reckon it will. target boost is around 1.1 - 1.2 bar

oil in will be quite small and unique and oil out (drain) is a 2 bolt diamond shape flange the two on each sides of that are the water feeds, doesnt matter which way they are hooked up.

ah dont ask... dyno was eventful thats for sure. had hell issues with missfiring, even tho it has mint coil packs and new plugs. plugs weer 0.7 then gapped to 0.5mm so f**k all... must have a weak spark from a coil pack or something. THEN the f**king gate stuck open... disassembled it and put it back together and yeah... started working ok but turns out the gate spring is only 6psi... so it bluids boost way too slow. slow boost build. missfires and f**k all boost = 265 rwkw. pretty slow to come on power but pulls decent. gonna fix this shit up and then retune it.

they are always going to be a hassle... i didnt want them there but common sense said otherwise. my bars are a lot lower then most people's set ups and we have an s14 in the shop atm with side bars higher then that also. the high side is above the door latch on that one where as on mine its below it. my elbow hits the bar once in the seat tho... will get some foam on that!

intrusion bars in. no hacking of door trims to fit and yeah... worked out well! really happy with the cage over all, some of the spots were a bloody prick to weld and having never done a cage before it was a real learning experience for both of us! I cant say im in too much of a hurry to do another one lol. I may add to the cage soon but for now this will do. I plan on putting a camera platform and harness bar in it but im out of material atm. Andrew wishes to let people know of his email address change, his new address is [email protected] for all your fab needs.

all sorted, was the idler stud, had a slight bend in it and the idler was not sitting flush with the block. New stud and put back together and its sweeeeeet as now

yeah all sorted on the timing belt issue.... bent idler stud replaced and away i went. now with vid!

4700 in any gear or 5th gear? if its 5th maybe a speed cut on the ecu?

cheers guys i'll pull it all apart this arvo.. was a bit too hot to do it yesterday... damn alloy rads.. get so warm!

nope i plugged it in and it ran straight away so my wiring was spot on! everything works too, tacho, speedo, temp gauge etc etc. cheers for your help with it.

lol your on to me! anyway time for some mega updates... IT f**king RUNS!!!!!!!!!! but not without issues. Started it up for the first time and there was heaps of weird noises. was noisy as hell and defo not a good thing for a first start up but turned out to be noisy listers.... but then this other hell weird noise apeared and was at the front of the motor... that one turned out to be the timing belt walking off the cam gears and rubbing on the covers. NFI why but i suspect a bent idler bearing stud or bent tensioner bolt...

Got a prob with my neo 25, started it up and it made a weird as hell noise. traced it down to the timing area and took the cover off and found the belt to be walking forward all the way and rubbing on the cover. recently had a new water pump and timing belt on. tensioner and idler new also. What could be the issue? im suspecting bent idler stud at this stage causing idler to be on an angle.

theres nothing really wrong with doing the adaptor with gate pipe route. I've done a few cars like that and they have made decent power (around the 300 mark) with stock exhaust manifolds and low mount still. while it might not be optimal for the last poofteenth of power. it does work and allows decent packaging in the engine bay.

wouldnt bother, a stock turbo would see 200 rwkw.

XRATED: stuff all. wouldnt even be a single amp. to the OP: ffs man, if its too hard get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you. i realised you worked it out in the end and you played around with leaving it on, but it took you 20 ppl to tell you the same thing before you figured it out

lots of euro turbo petrols are running 10.5:1 to 11:1 CR's these days. fuel quality and tuning has come a long way in the last 10 or so years

not sure about your calculations as i havent sat down and gone thro them. However 9.2:1 is hardly high comp these days. Pump fuel will do that no worries... even 10:1 wouldnt be too much of an issue.

I really think that the 20 head doesnt benifit from cams as much as a SR or RB25 etc does. mainly due to the smaller size of the runners and so on. If you ported a RB20 head and spent some time on it. then doing a cam upgrade would start to see some gains.

its designed never ever to blow off or seperate under pressure, most ppl just cut the flange off the afm and slip on 3inch hose on each end. but theres no lips on the AFM so the potential is for it to slip off. EDIT: roll cage steel in now.. starting that monday, with some luck we'll have the whole cage knocked up and in the car in one day. heres hoping!

600 hp and lag is a given mate. if you want to drift it go for something more sensible which will give you less peak power but more response and midrange torque.

its the Air flow meter. normally its on the other side, before the turbo.

the look of the weld mainly determines the quality of the weld. In your case is slapped on there and that usually means a total lack of penetration. Sooo... it means it will crack or leak, neither of which you want to happen.

already read that, firstly my motor isnt a fresh built one and 2ndly theres a lot of shit talking in that thread