Simon-S14

true but the point is that in this situation i dont think its been wired in correctly. so if he used a 32 alt loom, he's prob got no knock sensors hooked up.. if he couldnt get any then the easy way out would be to run two wires from each sensor to the relevant pins in that bottom grey plug. (rather then go all the way to the ecu)

some updates! I got some clear headlight covers from http://www.2-up.com.au/ and the quality is awesome.. got to work on the old lights getting the lenses off and that was fun thats for sure. put the covers on and they fit perfect. sealed them up and let them set then chucked them on today along with new front bar. looks a lot better now thats for sure just gotta get some corner lights! got a new Gate as well as some poncams. will be putting them in and then hitting up winton very soon. heres some pics.

top plug is the injectors bottom plug is for the knock sensor loom and solenoid under the intake manifold. check to see if you have it plugged in.

no its not the knock sensor wiring. i'll go take a pic.

can post aust wide.

grey plug... find the injector loom plug and it should be right next to that

Ive got a 2nd hand HKS 38mm gate for sale. been used on mt S14 and only reason im selling is due to upgrades to a larger one. Gate controlled boost perfectally at 300 rwkw and 17 psi. comes with flange and screamer pipe. Located Parafield area - SA txt on 0412 938 933 or pm me Price $250 Pic

yeah pretty sure you can swap in the s2 stuff. the ECU makes no difference as it just fires off the trigger for the ignitor (ie no ignitors onboard) so doesnt matter if it an external ignitor or coil pack with inbuilt ignitor. and yes the intake manifolds are the same

so cas is ok if its driving the injectors. and you defo have power to the coils yes? if so have you hooked up all the earthing points correctly? another thing. wwhere the plug bolts into the ecu make sure the ends of the plug are pushed in all the way as well... have had issues there before.

the knock sensor loom on rb25's is part of the alternator loom. so if you used the 32 alt loom then you'll have no knock sensors hooked up at all. on the intake mani theres two big wite plugs.. one is for injectors and the other is for knock sensors... is it plugged into anything?

an hour pretty much.

they work perfectally with nistune. so long as the tuner knows what they are doing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...-I-t297224.html

read my tutorial on them in the tutorial section. they are a very simple install and would cost about 30 bucks in mods to make it fit. I run the 600cc injectors in my neo with a Nistune running them and they perform faultlessly! I may be selling mine soon if your interested as im upgrading (plans to run e85)

good now do the google

nah hinge mod still provides friction on the hinge once you go past normal range so when its vertical it stays there no worries... just dont leave it up when windy

nice wheel choice... i do like the cst's! thats roughly where my ride height is also so good to know. looks like a sweet build either way!

google vertical hood....go on i dare ya its pretty easy theres two little tabs on the hindge which bottom out at full extension... i used a hammer and chisel to bend these back. some ppl cut them off but the beauty of bending them back is that they still provide friction when u go past the normal point.

nice have you got a pic of your ride height? looks like stock ride height arm angle in wich case your on a massive winner!

agreed... keep the stock cams, and change the VCT change over points on the dyno on nistune til you get a gain. would be better over all then GTR cams.

modded bonnet hinges finally... shoulda done it sooner makes it soooo much easier to work on lol. Modded lip above camber arm... easy with vice grips!

nice this is the one thing i wanted to do with my 32 but never did! ive got modded knuckles in my s14 tho... goes pretty good with decent lock

yeah you've got slightly wrong. Your actually raising the subframe further up into the body not lowering the car down onto it.. the difference is the ride height does not change since the strut length is still the same. when you lower the car by a fair amount two things happen. the axles have a tendicy to break and the susp arms are all at bad angles. your roll centre is also lowered beyound the factory setting and you induce jacking of the car during cornering. there is more leverage acting on the arms and you end up with more body roll rather then less. by moving the subframe up all the arms get a little more towards where they should be, as well as the axles. and your roll centre is further up towards where nissan intended. guys who have pineapples sitting between subframe and chassis are just making things worse by again excessivly lowering the subframe and increasing angles. cutting and relocating mounts is a painful to go about doing things. and even then wouldnt fully correct the problem.

cheers mate further note... measure the steel that your weld in for the toe arm/jacking point brace if you do it.. mine misses the diff backing cover by mere millimeters lol

its explained at the start of the article what it mainly does. correcting roll centres and stiffeing up the cradle. yes the ride will be harsh, track or for the brave only