Simon-S14

interesting.... if i had those imagages a while back my life would have been made easier lol

pro being solid lifters, more rev happy more reliable valve actuation cons are that the stock cams are very mild and no one offers regrinds or drop in solutions other then jap brands. combustion chamber is also smaller... not sure if this is a pro or a con

is this a neo only problem? any reason you cant use Rb25 psitons to suit a neo or is there nothing available? interested as im looking at doing a build down the track.

i too have searched high and low for one... i dont think it exists. much like the Neo Engine service manual... cant find one. i made a thread only a few days ago about it HERE

neo runs solid lifters.. only issue you'd run into would be VCT and CAS drive.

they would work in a neo 25... but yeah you'll need solids for a 33 25

im more or less after a stack more midrange torque as the neo cams are very mild in their stock form. will use same dyno so will be good to compare.

price was right for them... worked out to be just over 700 with the good dollar to yen... not so atm.. got them thro streeter.

haha yeah its got a slight lump to it now... revs up hell quicker.. very crisp and a lot louder out the exhaust too... sounds great so far cant wait to drive it

yeah its pretty much what i thought. pity my tuner who ive been using for the last 6-7 years has been missing for 8 weeks tho... dont trust anyone else in Adelaide to do it

hey guys. recently got some poncams for my Neo Rb25. currently has -Nistune -600cc injectors -3067r -Tial 38mm gate -all supporting mods. was tuned for 16-17 psi ish and makin 300 rwkw reliable. all AFR's sweet etc etc now i just want to know if i need to get a retune after installing poncams? got the type B's. was thinking i might just chuck it on the dyno to check AFR's but my normal tuner has gone AWOL.... cheers

fwiw i run 17psi with stock motor and stock HG. runs a 3076 with highmount manifold and all the supporting mods, makes around 300 rwkw and does it reliably as hell X amount of boost doesnt = limit of an engine (to a degree) as its certainly safer to run 16 ish psi thro a larger turbo then it is running 16 psi thro a stock turbo where its past the efficency range. with a decent turbo/tune/supporting mods theres no real reason why you cant make 300 rwkw+ all day every day

no.. read up. it seems an engine manual for the neo motor doesnt exist. i know the r33 manual has most of the data but the things i want to check on relate to the head and cams. info that is not in the above link or the 33 manual.

thats NOT what im after mate. read my first post

Yeah I have that cheers thanks. But the things I new to look up relate to the neo only set up

After a manual for the engine only... ive googled and searched and cannot find a 34 workshop manual that has the engine information in it... can anyone point me in the right direction?

they look great guys! ive got one on order also

if your swapping turbos... well you might be lucky depends how much tension is on the exhaust. it may be hard to get the turbo out with the pipe still there.

i know i can. i have an assortment of tools modified for fiddly jobs and yeah ive done it from the top before. much easier on a stock dump then it is on some aftermerket ones. but you still got to get under the car to undo the other end of the dump pipe anyway

pretty sure mate. been a while since ive played with the wiring in that area so mem is a little hazy. can go pull the plug on my 32 if u want to check lol

what did you do with the wiring to the stock sender? if its earthed out then the light will go out IIRC. either that or you got a minor wiring fault going to the stock gauge

yeah 17mm spanner usually is the go FT specs is what i do em... as tight as i can get them and then use those locking tabs.. never have an issue

no it gets its signal from oil press sender.. two wires on the sender one for oil light other for pressure gauge.

you can get away without taking dump off. in fact all lines except oil return can be left on turbo. remove heatsheild. undo turbo bolts... lift up. remove stuffed gasket and fit new one. refit nuts and torque up... done

DIY mate