Simon-S14

im well aware what he's using it for, but as for storing it methanol should not be stored with water. mix it as you need it.

methanol aborbs water and should not be stored with water at all. as for the insersion rubber i would dare say yes it will get eaten by the methanol. but i could be wrong on that one

the wiring and the ECU plug on a neo is very different. a gtr pfc will not work. just put a nistune board on the 34 ecu.

anywhere north side of adel sell it?

you guys do realise that you cant just put it in the car and expect gains from it. it has to be tuned to suit.

you'd think so, however they seem to think that they can guarentee the quality of their E85 and as such goes for a higher price... where as a servo fuel may have moisture in it. Spewing the Effinue at Mawson lakes went bust, as the BP who bought them out no longer sell it at the pump.

Who's run em and who likes them? Im looking into running these tyres as for the money they are reported as being pretty awesome. They are around $165 for a 235/45/17 post up your experiences !

looking at running my new car on E85. where in adelaide is it available from and how much am i expected to pay? cheers Simon

got 2X stock S2 rb25 turbo's for sale, one with elbow and one with out. both mint with minimal shaft play. $400 for the one with elbow and $350 for the one without. pm or sms 0409 567 603

i have a stock 33 gtst exhaust system cat and back. suit someone clearing a defect. chasing a carton or something for it. not on SAU much to just txt me 0409 567 603 located in golden grove.

yeah mate keeping the stock plenum for now.. the budget doesnt quite stretch as far as to a greddy or custom one just yet, we could make one but im not convinced that it would be of any gains other then shorter pipe work and look nicer.

FWIW Jeff was doing remaps using his own boards and then nistune boards before all the other tuners in adelaide were so he has his experience behind him.

forget the rest. go see Jeff from The Speed Lab, he is good mates with the nistune guys and so will do you a better price on boards + tuning. he's also a gun when it comes to tuning nissan's Jeff - 0434 637 357

and manifold and gate bolted on now! its a tight fit for the mani and the gate but it does fit, and well!

some more minor stuff happening. Cheers to Cazman for getting the wheel for me. pretty sweet and perfect for the price. another bay shot. i have now modded the rad some more for extra clearance between the fan and the rad. Throttle cable is a S14 sr one and almost fits the neo. just needed to move the mount 40mm further forward and it fits. Made custom mount using 3mm stainless and water jet cutter.

manifold is finally taking shape! looks brilliant! gate yet to be plumbed up...

i made a tutorial thread on how to install them, check it out. they come in 60 and 80lb's

yeah remap/nistune board. Hasnt been tuned yet tho. what kind of probs were you having?

stops it being sucked closed, thats all its for

shameless wing pics..... yes its not big enough lol

Going off this thread HERE I decided to try these injectors out on my neo motor, Those of you with neo's will know how limited the injector choices are at a reasonable cost. sure you can buy drop in injectors but at around almost triple the cost of these... well the deka's start to make sense! At $420 for a set of 6 they are really cheap! im not the first to give this a crack... urtwhistle provided some awesome info in that thread, however i thought i'd take pics along the way and post up a guide to help more people give it a go. I did do things differently and did not take the AAC valve off as you do not need to. just remove the whole top half of the manifold and put it aside. first up. a list of what you'll need hings you will need- 3 packs of bosch plugs (2 in each pack) ACA brand p/n BK402 $13.00 Trade per pack pack 2 spacers 20MM (wide) 12MM (thick) with a hole drilled 8.5MM $cheap 2 of M8x30 bolts 1x throttle body gasket (not needed if you don't break the 1 that is fitted) nissan P/N 16175-31U01 1x can of Lanoline spray lots of spanners screw drivers, soldering iron, heat shrink, pipe cutter, pipe flarer and most of all a huge amount of patience. Start by removing your pipe work and any hoses that join top half of the manifold to other hoses, leave the aac valve on and you can even leave the throttle body on (i removed it as i put a R33 TB on instead of the NEO type) you'll then need a 12mm socket in 3/8 drive with wobble bar set, undo all the top bolts on the manifold and then get to the 3 long ones underneath the front and middle ones are easy to get to but the rear one can take some time. heres where having a selection of different lengths of wobble bar's help. You should now have it looking like this. take note that as you pull the top half of the mani off that you have checked that all hoses connecting it have been removed. put aside along with gasket. get some tape and seal up the lower part of the manifold to ensure you dont drop shit in there. you can now see the fuel rail and injectors, start by removing the injector loom, this is quite easy to do, just pry out the plastic tabs and undo the plugs. put this aside as you'll be working on it later. now undo the two 12mm bolts on either end of the rail. there are also two 10mm bolts holding the FPR on, once these are undone its ready to come out. now you can remove them by gently prying the rail and injectors away from the manifold or undoing the retaining clips and then prying the rail away from the injectors. since they have been in there for years they are going to be quite firm to remove. just be gentle and you'll be right. Keep the retaining clips as you will need them later. Ok now you have everything out ready to modify. as you can see in the next pic its a comparison in size between the neo and the deka injectors... they are 12mm taller then stock, hence the need to space the rail up by 12mm. this is why the rail has to be modded to allow for clearance once the top part of the plenum goes back on. Now its time to modify the injector loom, splice back the plastic sheathing to access the wires and then just do one plug at a time, the white wire with blue stripe is the common power feed positive so wire the red wire on the new plugs to this on all of them. use heat shrink and take your time to ensure a decent solder, last thing you want to do is have issues with the wiring. once all done you can then tape the loom back up. Now you can modify the fuel rail. there is no need to cut any of the metal fuel lines like the link i posted to the other thread suggests, but you do need to undo the 10mm bolt in the centre of the rail which supports one of the lines, then cut off the tab on both the rail and the metal line. you then just bend the lines down a bit and then you can cable tie the main feed back in place to the side of the rail further down if you like. This is all you need to do, it will not fit without cutting that central tab however as it will foul. give the rail a quick clean and then get your new injectors and spray some Lanoline on the Oring and then install them into the rail with the plug's facing up. also install the retaining clip. Once you have all 6 in the rail, with clips on, its ready to go in. you may have to remove a small metal bracket which is located at the rear of the intake manifold (lower section) which is held in place by a single 10mm bolt... i found it difficult to get the rail in place with this in the way. spray the other end of the injector o rings with lanoline, line each one of them up and gently push the rail in. you'll feel them slide in quite easy. now that part is done you can bolt it up. Grab your spacers you had made and the longer bolts and bolt the rail in. Nearly done, bolt the FPR back on with the two 10mm bolts, install the injector loom and then refit the manifold back on. make sure you check every single hose that you disconnected from the manifold is refitted. Also ensure the vac hoses are connected to the FPR's you can then turn the ign on to prime the fuel pump to check that there are no leaks, there shouldnt be if there is you have most likely damaged an Oring. put all the pipe work back and and now you'll need to get the ECU retuned to suit... as it most certainly wont run too with with the current map. I hope this helps people out there who would like to save a bit of money and run a decent sized injector... remember these babies are good for over 400 rwkw too!

so yesterday i got stuck into doing injectors... had to modify the fuel rail to suit the new Deka 620cc injectors as they are 12mm taller overall. this raises the rail up and nearly fouls the bottom of the top part of the intake manifold. also some pics of Andrew half way thro the manifold.

my 3071R with AVO style .73 housing made 280 rwkw on 16psi with cams, 280 on 20psi with stock cams,.

+1 to that, to make this power without running 20 psi i would do the injectors, afm, remap/pfc, poncams and an adjustable cam gear for the exhaust gear and then get a good tuner who knows what they are doing.

yeah i would go that housing also. you can even fit it yourself, just be careful not to damage the turbine wheel when removing and refitting the housing and it will be sweet.