Simon-S14

bump. its all gotta go

Need all this stuff gone, its taking up room that i need!!! $50 $100 ON HOLD $20 SOLD $40 $50 $50 I also have a pair of GTSt R32 seats that i need gone asap for some room, was $200 will take $150. seats are mint. Contact me via PM or sms 0409 567 603 Located Adelaide SA

mate the stock pump feeds the surge tank, not the engine... the 2L supply of fuel that the surge tank has feeds the 044 then the motor, in that order. in no situation ever on the face of this planet is his motor is going to strip the surge tank supply of fuel in a few WOT applications.

wtf, you said you were losing coolant each time. just fill it up, mark the over flow, and drive the f**king car

it means as i said earlier... you have either a LEAK or a HEADGASKET problem. a header tank will not solve this. if you have done the tests that i and others have mentioned and you are still losing coolant then you have a LEAK or HEADGASKET problem. the heater core which has a flowing path of coolent thro it is one of many possible places for a leak to occur. stop asking silly questions and start doing some real tests on your car to find the problem.

no

the radiator should always be full. The overflow bottle is an expansion chamber basically when the coolant is hot, it expands and some is pushed to the overflow bottle and then taken back into the radiator once cool. what you need to do, is fill the rad with bleed screw on the manifold taken out til the system is full. then reseal the system, make sure the overflow bottle is filled to the MAX line and then mark it. drive for a few days and then re check it. if you have lost coolant from either the rad or the overflow then you either have a leak or a gasket problem, simple as that

if the motor is using coolant it will use it from the radiator first then the overflow. either you have a small leak which is only evident under pressure or you have a headgasket issue.

the 8 pin plug is for the injector loom, the 6 pin plus is part of the alternator and starter loom on an R33, you NEED to cut the knock sensors out the loom and fit them to your motor, while it wont cure your stall issues, you'll need them to make sure the thing runs safely. have you cleaned the idle control valve at the back of the manifold? start with this it's possible the solenoid is gummed up a bit. brake cleaner works a treat

pressure test the radiator, that will tell you if there is a slow leak or not.

most split dumps are pretty poorly designed and cause a restriction for the gate if anything... the only decent one i have seen on the market is from AM Performance. in saying that, i doubt you'll make more or less power with a bell mouth, just pick up some more response with a well designed split dump.

fair enough the rock was unavoidable... shit happens. but surely common sense suggest that you suss out under the car and the sump for damage before carrying on your way? from the sounds of it, if it wont turn over by roll starting it there is something seriously screwed.

nope

Looks good, thanks heaps Hayden!! and before anyone asks no the rear 1/4's arent fully painted. Just did a light coat to conserve paint as there is no point due to overfenders going on.

From this to this and then finally this lol

after my last test i went and plugged my ecu into a stock 34 gtt and it wouldnt run.... so the ecu is damaged. will report back soon with findings.

nah mate thats jason greenwoods car lol similar set up too.

rear wheels can be out of balance and be un noticable. fronts is another story tho

defo sounds like a uni joint problem mate. take the tailshaft out and feel and inspect all the uni's by hand for any looseness and notching problems. the solid mount will transfer more vibration but it will be a constant noise as the revs increase. not the sort of thing you are describing

Damage came thro with the goods cheers i no longer need a throttle body just a speedo drive now.

ah thats cool. i'll be using my own TPS anyway. consider it sold. PM me your details mate.

not sure if there is a difference? how muhc are you after for it mate?

diff and tailshaft still spins when car is in neutral so dont rule them out, could be work uni or CV joints. check the above 3 things also.

after a stock 33 speedo drive (the bit in the box) as mine is stuffed. I'm also after a stock r33 RB25 throttle body too PM me with what you have please or sms 0409 567 603 located in adelaide SA