3intheBack

scuze me for being ignorant, but dont you own a Stagea yet?? What have you been doing on this forum for the last 6 months??? Checkin us out hey!

I would just like to add that this wasn't my question, nor did I start this thread. Looks like someone was using my computer while I was in a meeting until 2.45pm. I had already come to the same conclusion as the rest of you...but then again it would be interesting to see some hard facts and figures from a dyno run...just not sure if anybody would be prepared to waste the money. I would just like to take this opportunity to apologise to anybody who may have thought I would be sacreligous enough to even think about installing one of these units on the Stagea

Has anybody mucked around with the hi-clone. We were debating its use on a turbocharged car the other day and it got me thinking... So, anybody played with one on the RB25? Neo? Fuel ecconomy numbers or dyno results?

I spotted a nice black beauty on the road between childers and Bundy! I think it was a series 2, bit hard to say, it was all but past me before i noticed! MAn I'm slow sometimes! That was on Sunday the 25 feb.

Well, its less than two weeks to go! we still have one spare spot! We plan to post some short clips of the day on youtube , then all can see how we went! Anyway.. we are all looking forward to the day. For those that are coming, don't forget to slip-slop-slap! and bring a chair!

Yeah, it's good to have a bit of technical input, so you know what you're looking for when buying (or building). And guess who has got 6 stainless steel catch cans in a production line sitting on the shelf just waiting to be bought. No. 1 and 2 have already been sold, one to PSI himself and one to me! Only 4 left.

I'm sorry, but if you want to remain a bonafide member of this forum you will have to go back and take pictures...and we dont care if it is raining...or snowing...pics or ban!!

Yeah, it's another case of, the factory knows best. It wont go into 4th until the oil reaches a certain temp. Usually about 3k's down the road. I do believe from experience that it is the tranny oil temp that we are talking about here, as the engine temp doesnt seem to have any bearing.

Not sure what you got, nor have I changed my pads before on my S2 Staj. But maybe the ABS has something to do with the above problems.??

One final thought for you all: Now that you have added about a dozen extra 8mm nuts to your car, or even you if you are contemplating doing this, then go and buy one of those flexi drives for doing up hose clamps and store it in your car tool bag. If you ever pop a pipe off out on the road it will be next to impossible to get them back on and tightened up with just an 8mm spanner. Which brings me to my next point - test the tightness of your clamps, by double checking everyone by hand firstly, then by getting out on a double lane highway and flooring it for a number of seconds, so as to maintain full boost for as long as legally possible. If a pipe pops while overtaking a car, then you will lose all power, in fact, it probably wont even idle.

Observations on Mike's Pics: Noice work in all, not sure if cutting the big chunk out of the metal part of the front bar did anything other then weaken the bar, as you probably would have realised when you put the plastic bumper back on - it covered all your ventilation anyhow. What can be helpful (slightly) is to put a strip of foam across the top edge of the IC between it and the bumper bar, this forces the air coming in to go through the IC rather then up and over the top - you will see this same idea used by the factory on the radiators. Also noticed that the outlet pipe (drivers side) from the IC goes further out before making the bend towards the back of the car. I see the black plastic strip being pushed out of shape by the pipe, whereas the (passenger side) inlet pipe is barely noticeable from the front. Personally, I just cut both of the plastic strips off. You could try cutting a couple of inches off the pipe then reinserting it into the blue connecting hose to make them look even. NB: flare the end of the pipe after you cut it or it will pop off under boost. Secondly, dont be lazy and remove the pipe completely if you intend to cut it or filings will make their into the motor. Actually, I just realised, if you pull the pipe off you may notice that the lengths of each end are different - one is shorter then the other, so you may simply have it in upside down. Depends on your kit though.

I reckon you would be covering the same distance, just by a different route: One under the motor, the other over the motor. There would be bugger all difference in it lengthwise, unless your inlet and outlet are on the same side of the IC. At the end of the day, what is more important, and has more effect, is the pressure drop across the core of the IC. Just for the technically minded: I believe the pressure drop due to one 90 deg bend in the pipework is equal to the pressure drop over 3 metres of straight pipe. So the second most important thing (after pressure drop across the IC core) is to reduce the number of bends.

The extra hose you now have is the one that goes to the power steering pump, - I would assume it controls a pressure switch that bleeds off excess fluid pressure at high revs - otherwise you would loose all feel in the steering at high speed. Since it works by reading the boost pressure in the intake plenum, you simply need install a T piece into some other line that is registering boost pressure. They will have given you a spare metre of hose with the kit. I joined it into the line that runs from the turbo to the boost controller since it was close by. Personally I am not sure if this alters the boost pressure signal going to the boost controller - which would be a bad thing. Or you could run in over the top of the motor and attach it to one of the nipples that you would use for the boost gauge.

I think you'll find that 'Pressure' is not the governing factor - vibration is. If the pipe and hose are touching they will rub and wear through. If you can zip tie them to stay apart, then zip tie them together firmly. Better still, cut up a 2 inch length of old hose and wrap it around the radiator hose - held by zip ties, at the point were the hose and pipe touch, this will act as a barrier that it has to wear through before it gets down to the radiator hose.

Questions, reservations and objections answered....

Brad's idea for routing is best. Adjacent to the brake booster you will see a hole that goes into the wheel arch. Remove the front wheel, mud flap and then the few screws holding the inner splash guard in place - just enough to be ablle to see inside and you will see a large rubber grommet where all the wires from the dash come through the firewall. Poke a guide wire through from the inside then tape on the vac hose and pull it back through to the inside of the cabin. I doubt you'll find an easier place to feed it through. If your vac line is one of those thin 3mm white plastic varieties then it would be a good idea to thread it into a larger 6mm plastic hose to protect it as they kink easily...also the 6mm hoses come in a variety of pimpolicious colours.

Re: Engine Harness I've already go the fusebox and all I can say is that, I wasnt being carefull when I cut (hacked) the wires leading to it. Not sure about the rest - whats left was pretty much yanked from all of its connections. I reckon you might have problem chasing broken wires etc.

Marc: The link seems to be broken. PSI and I have been talking with SKA (Moderator of the Stagea Forum) and we are a little way down the track with organising a SAU members only day. In the meantime we have booked in 4 separate days (bimonthly) starting in March. If anyone would like to come send a PM and I'll send back some details. It's shaping up to be a great year. I personally have never been to any event at Roadcraft other then our own days, so I dont know what they do. PSI and I run our days the way we like it and I believe you will find them more fun and educational then any defensive driving course you ever done. I have been told by two senior instructors from Roadcraft that our days are organised, run and financed, completely different to other clubs. So some of the issues they (the other clubs) face has not been a problem for us. (just lucky I spose) They are closed events. That is, we lock the gates once everyone's in so we dont get any Yahoo's poking their noses in. Any problems listed previously in the above posts have not been a problem at our events. (Although, having gone back over the posts it seems most of the problems are semantic - the wrong choice of words,ie, 'drift' 'track work') However we do keep it to the rules and unfortunately have in the past asked one participant to leave half way through as they were not towing the line. You dont need a CAMS Licence. The event is insured. Your car insurance will still cover you - mine does anyway (Shannons) Your car doesnt need to be registered, but it will be scrutineered, and it will need either, boost, grunt and an LSD. Otherwise you'll be struggling all day. It will scratch your itch to do silly things in your car and at the same time, reduce your urge to do the same silly things on the road. It will take you three months to get good at the techniques you will be taught. And finally, you will be too knackered to drive home by days end.

I think someone's feeling hormonal.. he he But I do appreciate your help, any time spent on the 'yellow volvo' is never wasted. At least it's a good test mule, it's all for a good cause, helps the environment, contributes to a reduction in green house gases, lowers the national debt. I think we need to take this to the wasteland.... ...sorry SK

I'm very sorry mr psi but this is a 'STAGEA' thread, no R33's allowed. You will have to bug off back to your own forum. Dont complain about time, 'cause now the whole world knows that you finish work at 3.00pm P.S. I'm just jealous that SK replied to one of your posts!!

O genki desu ka StageaNaWasan... If you are cleaning the AFM then only use a pressurised spray can. Avoid the temptation to wipe it with a rag...you know you want to! Use an electrical parts cleaner or brake linings cleaner - something that drys clean and leaves no residue. Just a few second spray is all that is needed and you dont even need to remove the AFM from the car to do it. P.S What do you actually mean by ' the turbo isnt kicking in'? Maybe the wastegate is stuck open, maybe you have a sock up the plenum. (lol) Could possibly have a chocked up CAT - a restriction in the intake and/or the exhaust will both stop the turbo from working. If you have gone to the effort of pulling the AFM out then take off the intake pipe that leads to the compressor side of the turbo and give the turbine a spin with you fingers (gently now). Try to see how much sideways slop it has on the bearing - if it touches the housing or it feels notching as you turn it, then you've got bigger problems.

I dont think you should the words 'feel' and 'bum-wiping' in the same sentence. Unless you want to be misunderstood.

I was wondering if you guys could give me some pointers for example - The oil, what you use to clean it THERES A SUBSECTION ON CAR STYLING AND CARE SOMEWHERE ON THE FORUM PLUS NUMEROUS THREADS ON THIS SECTION. USE THE SEARCH. Furthermore I was wondering whether I needed a turbo timer for the health of the turbo. WHAT 'TANGLES' SAYS, DONT BOTHER - SPEND THE MONEY A CRUISE CONTROL UNIT - THIS IS ONE OTHER FEATURE IT WONT HAVE THAT IS DISAPPOINTING. BUT SHEEZ ITS GOT SOME MANY GOOD FEATURES - WHO CARES. I was just waiting for the 'welcome to your new addiction' phrase to pop up. I got one... YAY! SORRY, IT DOESNT COUNT UNLESS IT COMES FROM SKA Thanks again for all the positive feedback guys, much appreciated DONT MENTION IT MY S2 CAME WITH 55K ON THE CLOCK WHICH I KNOW WAS GENUINE SO YOU MIGHT BE OK LOWERING? - STANDARD IS 380MM FROM THE WHEEL CENTRE TO BOTTOM OF THE GAURD ON ALL 4 WHEELS - IF IT HAS BEEN LOWERED YOU WILL NEED A CAMBER KIT OR YOUR TYRES WILL BE SHOT IN 15K

Post up a couple pics of your setup - it sounds strange that you dont have ducting vents - where did the old I/C get its cooling from?

I have one off an S2 Stagea - Neo RB25DET. Comes with outlet pipe plus rubber connectors, airducting etc. No longer needed as I have a Monsta FMIC.