3intheBack

Personally I cant believe you even thought of removing the dbl unicorn. oh the humanity!....Thats sacrilege. You should all be whipped to within inches of your life then sent home to mumma in a cardboard box. Where have all the purist gone?

I would suggest you have piped it together the wrong way around and the wastegate actuator isnt working at all now which is why you are getting 15psi.

I 've seen these in the flesh and yes the plastic guards dont do much for it - very XC volvoish. The rear door has a two way opening system - another Stagea innovation. Not that this was the first time this idea was invented, just that it looks like someone actually thought about it before slapping the car together. The picture doesnt give the dash the credit that is due, it is very creamy...very yum. That flap on the top of the centre console opens up and the tv/dvd screen pops up. The price has come down significantly since it was last advertised for around $50k

This chart is interesting. Which Series is this for Ian? My S2 will do 125 kmh on the rev limiter in 2nd gear, quite a bit more then the 110 listed above. Havent checked the upper limit of the other gears yet.

On a twin 2 inch system R = 1 inch X pi (3.14) then square it = 9.88 cubic inches times 2 pipes = 19.77 cubic inches On a single 3 inch R = 1.5 inches X pi = 4.7 squared = 22.22 cubic inches So a single 3 inch pipe has more volumn then a twin 2 inch. I rest my case...

Not sure as my S2 came with them already in. I believe the compliance conversion simply replaces the bulb. The reflective lense is still the same. Email these guys: [email protected]

So the rumour about you having 11 fingers and 3 thumbs is true...

Whatever happened to multiplying R X Pi (3.14159265) ...or does that just give you the circumference?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the db limits you are looking for are: Pre 1986 - 96db Post 1986 - 92db ...but then some of you werent even born pre 86 so you wouldnt recognise 96db coming out of a straight thru 2inch system on the mini or a set of twin hotdogs bolted to a set of yella terra extractors on Torana XU1.

IMHO the colour is irrelevant. The fact is that the paint is providing another layer between the hot air inside the I/C and colder air outside. Which means the heat transfer is not as efficient. Think of it this way, which is cooler for sleeping at night - a black blanket, a white blanket or no blanket? ...colour is not the question, number of layers is. The cleaner the I/C, the more heat is dissappated. The best thing you could do for your I/C is to give it a wash with your mag wheel cleaner occassionally - just be careful of the paintwork.

"Keep it sleeper looking" LOL you sucker...you know you've been bitten by the bug and there's no stopping the endless list of mods. Go the dyno first...but that is only because nobody else here wants to spend the money on a base (unmodified) model to see what it does before you change it. Your A/F ratios are going to be way too rich - standard Nissan factory tuning and extra boost will only make this worse. IMHO the front/dump will be the best improvement to performance along with the dyno tune. Personally I do think the most important route to take with moding is: 1. Keep it on the road. 2. Do one or maybe two change/s at a time. This way you can not only notice the subtleties of the improvement but also appreciate them as well before the bug for more power bites again. 3. Little changes will make it easier to find the problem and fix or reverse it. Multiple changes are a real bugger if something goes wrong as most things are related to or influenced by other changes.

Qiky - have you owned a mini before? Mini's invented the term 'not great at slowing down'. A mini's only saving grace was that it didnt need brakes - all you do is turn harder into the corner. Heath - like me you'll never go back. And I have owned 7 of them. Mini's are a ball of fun, they shouldnt be taken seriously as a car and should be thrashed around like the go karts they are Actually after owning the Stagea for a while I think the second saving grace of the mini is that they are 'cheap' to thrash around. It is good to see you did the only sensible thing that the mini was always missing - added a turbo - oh, I am assuming the GTI was a turbo.

So....is this on the Goldcoast or Brissy?

Some good friends (who mustn't want to see me live much longer) bought me a HKS Speed limit defender for my birthday. The install instructions are woefull - all in japanese. My car is an S2 Neo. I have a copy of the R34 pinout diagram. And the power and earth wires are obvious, but what do I do with the other three Does anyone have a clue which pinouts to plug it into?

That's naughty. One last fang before you sell it hey!

My fault I was confusing him with QikStagea

He's got an S1 what would he need it for? Front bar still availiable, needs minor repair $300 My 40th coming up this weekend - I'll ask my good wife, she's feeling pleasant towards me atm.

Has anyone got dibs on the old front bad and centre grill surround???? If not, I'm in (like flynn)

OK so I think we have a problem Houston... I'm going from zero torsional strength to a 24mm solid bar. Oversteer here we come!! Serious oversteer is going to be somewhat profound I think... Ohhh, what funnn! Crazy driver + Boost + HUGE sway bar = Massive amounts of entertainment for me in Oct! I will post clips of the aftermarth!

AAARGHHH Someone has stolen it!! I saw the bolt hole as per picture One. And I wondered why it was 'empty'. So that IS where it was supposed to be...but it aint there! Well that's a relief - of sorts Looks like its back to Nizmo to ask for a refund. For a good look at its handling characteristics just see the video in my other thread and watch the back. Funnily enough it doesnt feel as bad as it looks

Excuse me for being a bit slow, but I just recieved my rear sway bar from Whiteline today and in my excitment I went home and climbed under the car to have a squizz and soft fit. Lo and behold I couldn't for the life of me see the original sway bar anywhere on the rear end. Now I know I am not completely mechanically illiterate or blind. I know what a brake line looks like. But i still can't see the bar. So if you could point me in the right direction that would be nice. If you have found it lying on the road somewhere, maybe off the edge of the skid pan and could return it that would be even better. My Stagea is a 2000 S2 RWD only and I can post up pics of the rear suspension if you want. signed perplexed P.S. Actually, dont return the original, just tell me where to fit the new one.

Pixel, all the advise of the last few posts is 'on the money' at this point in time. A GT30 on its own without the supporting 'fruit' on both sides of the turbo is overkill. It's not that the GT30 was the wrong choice, it is a bit like buying a top of the line head unit for your stereo and plugging it straight into the factory speakers - it just aint gunna work like its supposed to. Spend a couple of extra dollars on the exhaust (especially the front half) and then see how you feel...I reckon you'll be feeling a nice surge in your back at around 3000rpm. P.S. Gap your plugs down to 0.7-0.8 while you're in there banging around.

Dear Mr Fish It has come to our attention that you have been subjecting your vehicle to driving conditions outside normal parameters. This flagrant disregard of your vehicle leaves us no choice but to recind your warranty and all costs of repairs are now yours. Regards Nissan Motorsports

I dont see how a small intercooler would make a lot of difference on a short dyno run unless it is acting as an airflow restrictor - ie a boost pressure drop across the core - which can happen if you are running a large turbo. I believe this is what SK is referring to when he says a stock R34 IC is good for 200 kw (in terms of flow). The size of the IC only becomes an issue when it is unable to dissipate the heat being generated by the turbo. Which is only going to be problem on the road on hot days or after a number of dyno runs close together. I definitely think the most critical part of the exhaust is the front dump pipe upto and including the cat. The standard stagea dump pipe has a small cat, barely 2.5 inches in diameter only 12 inches from the turbo before the exhaust moves down the pipe 3 feet to the next cat. This kind of back pressure will stop your turbo spooling up freely. That is why everybody raves about the new found mid range torque they have with a decent front/dump pipe setup into a 3.5 inch cat.

Flyer28_10_06.pdf Just in case any of you guys are interested, the above attachement is a copy of the flyer for the next skid pan day that we are having on Sat 28 Oct. I hope I dont get done for plagarising "Slidewise." It was a name that we thought up and then found out it was already being used as a business name of one of SAU's sponsor. It evolved from the following line of thought: Wheelspin + Boost = Action Action + Opposite Lock = Control Control + Education = Style Action + Control + Style = Slidewise This basically sums up the day - not just to have fun, but to learn how to slide and control your car in numerous situations - a bit like a defensive driving course, but not so sappy. Plus we have a few competitions with prizes etc. One of them being a dyno run. We limit the day to 14 cars on a 4 min rotation so we all get heaps of track time. For a brief preview see the links below of my Stagea on a couple of the courses