3intheBack

Just to add a bit to my crapping's on previously in this thread... ...a while ago I was buying some brighter bulbs for the high beam on the S2 and found out that the guy selling me the bulbs used to do compliancing on Stagea's. He said the reason that they where illegal was not to do with the self levelling issue. I cant remember his exact words, but it goes something like this... ..it has to do with distance the light travels before becoming too dim. Xenons are very bright for a distance then the luminesance (sic) drops off dramatically. Whereas the halogen light, while duller in brightness, the light intensity dims more gradually. The issue with Xenon's is not the distance the light travels or the brightness, rather, it is the rate at which it drops off at a certain distance and this, I assume, would be to do with its wavelength. I hope that makes sense. If you go to any auto retailer they will have sales charts showing the different light intensities and the distance the lights travel, so you can compare the different bulbs depending on your application.

They're not real clear photos, but they make the point.. The Stagea is the perfect family car, there is bucket loads of space in the back even with the Bertini Pram. The best feature is the reclining seats and the flatness of the seats so you can fit the bay seats up to the edge, near the door, without the seat swab pushing them (baby seats) over at a funny angle. Since these photos where taken the centre baby seat has been turned to face forwards and it still fits ok.

If you go to any truck or bus spare parts joint they will have them. You only need to know two important things: 1. the pressure rating from the sticker on the side of the strut - in NM newton metres. 2. the travel length of the strut.

Has a destination been set for this yet??? If not I have suggestion....come to our skidday in Gympie. It is on Saturday the 28th of July. Ska and a mate are coming down from Rocky for the skid day. If he can drive 500 k's then maybe you guys could drive up 200? Just think of it as meeting half way. We run these days 4 times are year and this year the SAU members have come twice and have now booked a third day for this year alone..so it's gotta be good if they keep coming back. .........just a thought........

Yes it is. And spelling it with an "H" is the important bit. He too loves the spaciousness of the family wagon and the way it slides at the local skid pan. (Except when it bites and kicks back in the other direction and he head butts the C pillar.)

Without getting into the argument of camber and tyre wear, the above qoute is correct. I went from -2deg camber to +2deg when I installed a double camber kit. (theory was that each single kit added only 0.75 deg camber) At the same time the toe went from -1deg to +10deg. The car was downright dangerous to drive, especially when you hooked into a corner and the weight transferred to the outside wheel - which was trying to steer the rear of the car around to the front. The problem comes from the toe adjuster arm which sits in the lower/middle part of the suspension control arms. The camber kit pushes the top of the tyre out, so the toe adjuster arm effectively pulls the rear of the tyre in. Still, I cant see how this would cause a tyre to blow. Tyres can wear through to the first belt without too many worries. Plus, I always run 40psi..just my 2 cents worth

There is a thread on the stagea plenums runners. They where longer and narrower - to give more botton end grunt which you would need in a heavy auto. I am not sure what they where being compared with - GTR or GTST's

go to the stagea forum and look up Sydneykids thread on the Jaycar IEBC. It has all the info in there - just a lot of pages to read through.

Dude it sounds like you did exactly what I did on day 2 of owning my Yellow S2 - washed it. It is guaranteed that you have water in the coil pack 'valley' and also in the airbox. Removing the silver engine cover is easy enough, but the black plastic coilpack cover is a real bugger as you will have to remove the intake pipe that runs across the engine. But if you could lift it up at one end and blow it out as best as you can it should help. Dont think you can wait for it to dry out, it can take days. However the most likely cause of the miss fire at 3000rpm is from water in the bottom of the airbox. Because it works in a downward direction as opposed to VL Commodores, the water pools in the bottom just below the AFM intake. When you get enough suction happening (at higher revs) it will suck some of the water in. Water per se going into the engine is not a problem, but the hot wire AFM will be upset when it makes contact with the water. PS, the colour yellow is special, I just had to have it when I saw mine, but there are times when I wish I could turn 'the volume' down a bit, especially when I'm in the mood for a bit of spirited driving...boost surge is addictive.

I doubt you would hear the air turbulence inside the pipes. Were did you reroute the spare vacuum pipes? You would have a couple left over after removing the standard pipes. Are they floating in the breeze somewhere?

A friend of mine owns a VN commodore wagon with a 2 inch lift kit and 75 series tyres. He can take it 4WD'ing up any beach. Now he's looking at buying a Stagea and doing the same mod. (each to their own) To do this he would need to put on 15 inch rims. So the questions are: Do 15 inch rims clear the brake calipers? Is there a lift kit available? Will it put the drive shaft uni's out of alignment and wear them out prematurely? Do RS fours have LSD as standard?

The Series 1 stagea have R33 series 2 motor in them. The Neo motors came out in the Series 2 stageas, built in 99 and 00. In 01 they evolved into the M35.

If you're looking for stealth.. on the S2 they (well mine anyway) come with an option of an amp bracket/holder that mounts to the top of the spare wheel. Under the boot panel.

IMHO it would definitely have double sided tape as well as the mounts. Just use a long shape blade - it wont matter if you scratch the paint as you are repainting it anyways. IMHO 2, keep the wing on, or why would everyone else be after Alex Cim to hurry up and finish off his group buy.

Yeah, that's the thread, You'll have to go to page two and three to see the pics. See the posts about the "free, 10 minutes to higher boost job" There is a lot of guff in there unrelated to what you want to know. But for me as a first timer it brought me up to speed on how the solenoids worked so I could figure it out from there. And on how the original plumbing worked. If there is any restrictor it will probably be in the T piece. ALternatively feel/squeeze along the length of the rubber lines to feel for a restrictor in the lines.

It wont work in Aus. And you'll be lucky for the manufacturer to supply the necessary software to run it here. They'll just tell you to buy an Australian version. Last time I checked these numbers in japanese: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0, looked like this in english: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0, so you should be pretty safe here. Is the Pope catholic? It's definitley turbo or something is horribly wrong. But then again the dealer is telling you... Yes talking and blowing at the same time. None of this is to talk you out of buying the car. Either way you'll be happy, we all are. Just buy the car on it own merits and get a friend or RACQ/NRMA who knows cars to check it out for you.

Easiest thing would be to have a read of the Jaycar IEBC thread. It has some good pics of how to set it up and references to the positioning of the flow restricting T piece(which the S2 doesnt have). Plumbing the wastegate directly into the IC pipe will do exactly what Ska has said - the wastgate spring is set at 0.6 bar. The EBC needs to bleed off or restrict boost signal to the wastegate so the turbo is tricked into thinking that it hasnt reached 0.6 bar yet, so it keeps on increasing the boost. I know it sounds obvious, but have you plugged the lines into the right nipples in the EBC. The factory instructions on mine were back to front, and I didnt find out until i blew through them with my mouth, while adjusting the regulator.

Yeah , I 2nd that. It usually sits just in front/bottom of the A/C condensor fan, so it's in the way when you put the FMIC in. The bracket it is mounted on is easy enough to bend so that it can repositioned to hang down vertically giving you clearance.

Remove the two rubber grommets at each end of the tailgate - the ones where the electrics etc go through. And there will also be a mount in the middle once again, behind the oval shaped rubber grommet. Dont know about the panels behind the rear glass, but removing the plastic inner lining would be the best place to start. Has your car had a respray at some stage? I would doubt the original SFHC to be stuffed by now, and the run in the rear bar sounds a bit sus.

For a bit of technical guff - xenon is an inert gas. When you pass a very high voltage through the gas at low pressure, it produces an intense, brilliant flash of light. The colour of the glow is the same as the gas's spectral lines when viewed through a spectroscope. In Xenon's case - blue. Which is why they look blue when coming at you from a distance, as opposed to the bulbs you buy at supercheap which are just a white light shining through blue glass. Neon is also an inert gas that glows red when you pass electricity through it. Many camera flashes have xenon gas in a small tube - which is why you need levelling adjusters on the Stagea, because to 'flash' a driver coming in the opposite direction is like setting a camera flash off in their face - not good for visibility. I believe ADR's make them illegal to import as the levelling adjusters aren't automatic. So all this is to simply explain why it has a ballast like fluro bulbs - to create a high enough voltage charge.

pity u didnt ask two weeks ago when I had them out to do the camber bushes. Unfortunately there's no way I am pulling them out again any time soon.

I just thought of a second and third point: 2. My wife owns it. 3. I'm paying for it. 4. She's paying me back with children etc..but then thats a good thing!

Maybe this pic of my old S2 SMIC will help. It doesnt show measurements, but FCRUZ is right that they are about 40mm taller.

Oh, for crying out loud and slobbering down the sink! I've created another monster ...I left the numbers blank because there is nothing to hate.. (except maybe the lack of cruise control) My wife warned me this would happen...but then when do I ever listen to her...

1: 2: 3: 4: that is all...