CruiseLiner

mines about $1200 from just cars and that with the rb26 listed, pity its only for 18k i do have 60% no claims bonus though so that does help.

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do a leakdown test i think, white is oil usually

top racing provide good service and treat customers with respect unlike some other known shops. plenty of people will recomend them on here $217 oil change is a big big rip off, surely pulling a filter off and undoing a sump plug isnt worth $130, its about a 15-20 min job max. i suppose its good value if u got a 15L sump

timing too advanced and causing it to fire when valves are still open maybe? hence fuel and spark = flame straight out exhuast

sudden rich mixture when u back off the throttle, thats what mine does and monster flames lol must admit mines because of the cams i got, dont know why yours would do it

yep series 1 stageas use r33 series 2 engines

1: too heavy 2: finding somewhere to use all that power 3: too loud 4: lack of traction 5. fuel consuption of a 10L v12 at full throttle haha 6. i get more looks than just skylines i can tell u that 7. manual consoles cost too much 8. cant lower it enough that is all...

hey guys well ive been getting a fair few PM's regarding the gtr diff conversion and change over to gtr axles, unijoints and brakes so heres a basic rundown for anyone interested in the work involved... 1. remove stagea diff, axles, rear hubs, coilovers. 2. put gtr diff internals into stagea diff housing so all mounts for attessa pumps are the same and it looks stock from the outside. the stagea and gtr diff housings are identical except the mounting points mentioned. i would take it to a diff shop once internals are installed and get them to check the tolerances on the gears so it doesnt clunk when on and off the throttle. 3. now the backing plates are different on gtr to stagea so its up to u which way u go, i know the gtr one has more capacity for betting cooling and also its aluminium and has fins on it . the gtr backplate just hits the rear x-member so u need to bend abit of the metal on the bottom of the x-member to allow clearance, its only touching by 3-4mm so its nuthin major to alter the x-member with some vice grips etc. 3. install gtr diff into the car 4. gtr axles are too short so they are useless, u will need a gts4 long side axle for the short side of the stagea (left and right axles are different lengths), and then another long side axle from a gts4 for the long side, but its still gonna be 40mm too short so u have to have it extended by a shop who specialises in that sort of thing. we actually did it at home with a welder and cut up one of the gtr axles and joined them where the unijoint area is closest to the diff, and i didnt think it would work or hold up to big launches, but now with 545hp at the wheels and about 8-10 8000rpm launches it is fine 5. u will need to use the gtr rear brake hubs as the splines on the gtr axles are different to stagea axles. these mount using all the stagea rear arms (all the gtr arms are too short). they all bolt up no problems, except the hicas mount on the hub u need to push the bush from the stagea hub into it (instead of the hicas balljoint bush). the bush is slightly small for the gtr hub so we used some shim metal around the outside of it to make it a tight fit. the stagea arm then bolts up as per normal. 6. the gtr brake rotors and hubs just bolt straight on and im 99% sure the stagea brake lines wont fit the gtr calipers as the fittings are different, so i used braided brake lines made up from a local shop. 7. your stagea coilovers wont fit on now as the bottom mountings are different and therefore u need gtr style coilovers (best to get 260rs ones as they are designed for the heavy weight of the rear end compared to gtr ones), i got the sydneykid coilovers so i just ordered gtr ones with a revalve suited for the stagea and they are fine, the top and bottoms both bolt up fine. thats pretty much it from memory, and the only difficult part is the lengthening of the axle, but if a shop does it, it will be easy and not excessively expensive. the drivers side axle is the one that needs lengthening!!! thanks Brad

thanks Roy, great details mate. does anyone know any r32 gtst's that are fully stripped with only bare essentials and how much they weigh? factory is 1260kg from memory? surely getting in the mid 1100's would be a breeze, except maybe the addition of a rollcage would add abit on that so still in the high 1100s i'd assume?

i already have skirts and want a front and rear bar but unfortunately i have a few other priorities at the moment... any idea how much u wanna pay for the skirts?

but building it is half the fun

awesome input guys, great to get some advice from people with experience now im lookin at buying a chassis to go with and workin out what is needed etc to get it reliable and setup correctly. heres my current list... r32 gtst stripped totally except engine/box/tailshaft diff and suspension add a fuel cell and move battery to the boot use my rb27, big intercooler, oil cooler, ecu, clutch, etc get a rb25 5 speed box, use my fuel system from stagea with surge tank ill put some swaybars and all new bushes all round good quality race seat and harness upgrade brakes to something better (i suppose r33 brembos wont really be good enough or will they with the stripped out 1200kg weight?) decent rims and rubber ill more than likely go with the 3040r 0.82 for power/response compromise will a bolt in rollcage add much structural support for better handling? will i need a better radiator than the gtst unit? suspension, are the jap brand coilovers good enough or should i be lookin for better quality gear? are adjustable arms needed to setup camber, etc? any major things i am forgeting? this is a fairly budget sort of setup dont forget, im hoping to get out of this for under 20k when its complete (ive got the motor, turbo, cooler, ecu, etc already). possible or am i pushing it? all labour is free as im doing all the work myself too.

Hey Roy its more a track day car not really interested in series racing events (not yet anyway lol). im thinking motorkanas, and track days (barbegallo raceway) mainly, occasional drift if i happen to enjoy it. my thoughts on the t04z is its abit too hard hitting when coming onto boost, as in if i come onto boost mid corner its gonna throw me off the road its soo agressive. the t04z has great power from 4300rpm or so until 8500rpm limiter. i'd expect a 3040r or so to be alot more gradual and easier to control when boost comes on. suspension and tyres have not had alot of thought as yet but definately some race rubber (not sure on good and bad brands) and suspension would be one of the better brand setups as well. what are some good suspension setups for this work and how much are they roughly? i havent been involved with circuit racing as u can probably tell, mainly been a drag racing person but circuit looks alot more fun and more driver involvement rather than throwing more $$ on engine mods like drags is all about.

thanks mate if its the size i want and in good cond (once i see a pic) ill grab it for sure! oh also what filter does it take, z145a? or the smaller type?

any pics of the oil cooler and remote filter setup? are the lines braided and what size are they, -10 or -12? what size is the core of the oil cooler?

hey guys i currently have my rb27 in a stagea and im lookin to get into circuit work and maybe abit of drifting as well, so the plan is to rip the engine out of the stagea and into a r32 gtst or possibly a silvia/180sx. the engine has a t04z and is approaching 600rwhp but its definately not a turbo i'd use on a track setup so im planning on downsizing for track duties only. what sort of power is the max u can have to be suitable? im thinking a gt3040r (0.81 housing) on a jun 2.7L will be perfectly matched and capable of 450-480rwhp or is this still too much to handle with only 2wd? whats the ideal power range in this sort of setup? the car will be stripped to bare minimum and full roll cage etc. so around 1200kg im guessing. do u think a rb in a silvia/180sx would make it too front heavy for this sort of racing? any info on turbo selection/max power/car selection welcome

cheers for the reply Paul

Hey Paul what sort of hp will stock sized valves create a restriction? do u use 1mm oversized on inlet and exhuast when u upgrade? how much are the oversized valves exactly and how much machine work is required for these to fit in the place of stock valves? just enquiring as i run the setup i mentioned

the front driveshaft hole is sealed anyway so dont worry about anything entering the tf case. pull the shaft and u dont need to touch any fuses/fluid etc, i drove mine for about 3000km with no shaft and just tuned on 550rwhp and i had to put the front shaft in because it just wont hook up on the street lol

awesome work Mark, is this on street radials or slicks? do u have any idea what sort of hp at the wheels u are producing as it is? what rpm limit do u run with stock crank setup? also thanks for selling me the ati balancer late last year mate its workin a treat

nah no stock anything lol, got the 2.7l jun kit and jun 272/11.35mm lift cams. the dyno mine was on is fairly conservative to from what ive been told around Perth

280 11.35mm jun cams (head needs machining for clearance), heavy duty valve springs and titanium retainers and with autronics ecu u will need the autronics cdi unit and best coils are the msd ones.