CruiseLiner

thanks fellas, the 22psi run didnt get much more power than the 18psi (another 40hp or so) so it looks like its running out of puff on the old t04z, it is a conservative dyno compared to some other ones in perth so it should crack 600 on other dynos if im lucky. looks like its turbo upgrade time to something huge that will make full use of the stroker kit in the near future and keep the Z for road use the sound of it at 8500rpm is pure car porn

96 stagea rs4 Engine: RB26DETT INTERNALS: N1 block JUN 2.7L stroker kit JUN forged crank JUN forged connecting rods JUN cosworth forged pistons JUN oil pump JUN head stud kit JUN big end stud kit JUN high lift cams JUN adjustable cam gears JUN titanium retainers JUN heavy duty valve springs Nismo bearings HKS metal gasket kit Tomei valve guides Gates timing belt n1 waterpump ATI harmonic Balancer INTAKE: HKS T04Z (0.81) turbo K&N pod filter with 6" inlet Trust stainless steel exhuast manifold custom 3" aluminium intercooler piping HKS 50mm external wastegate EXHAUST: 4" dump pipe into 4" exhaust, to 3.5" after cat 3.5" stainless steel muffler FUEL SYSTEM: sard 1000cc injectors sard dual entry fuel rail sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator bosch 044 external fuel pump x2 bosch 040 intank fuel pump 3L aluminium surge tank 1/2' feed line to engine 3/8' return line to surge tank OTHER ENGINE BITS: Autronics SMC ecu Autronics CDI ignition amplifier MSD coilpacks custom 9L baffled sump Apexi Drag 600x240x140mm thick intercooler tuned on 18psi (had issues on higher boost with misfiring, soon to be sorted) it managed 545rwhp (407rwkw) with rpm limit of 8500rpm

got the car on the dyno today and still had some issues on higher boost with misfiring, it was upto 22psi and managed 584rwhp (436rwkw) but it was getting worse the hotter it got so boost was turned down to 18psi and managed 545rwhp (407rwkw), its still got the misfire issues and its wiring related so its getting a full check over to see whats the problem in the next few days. still goes alright and has no trouble smoking tyres in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear now (in 2wd) and its damn loud when revving out heres the final dyno graph as it is now...

get the attessa ecu out from behind the pasenger side rear fender panel area (note, its a pain in the arse to remove ) and check the attessa diagnostic code as one of the sensors may be stuffed. my 4wd light is on constant because i dont have the 2 wires from the ecu connected to tell the attessa ecu the rpm signal and tps signal.

hey jerry is it possible for a comp test to show everything is fine and a leakdown to show otherwise? so say im checking for a broken piston etc and the comp test is perfect, would the leakdown tell me anything the comp test cant?? i realise if the comp test is bad then leakdown helps to detect the exact problem area but would u say its safe to say a comp test that is perfect means the motor is fine? sorry for the long rambling post but im just wondering

i spotted a white stagea on the way out of whiteman park on gnangara road and i gave him the thumbs up and he waved back, he was nothing to do with the stagea cruise either. seen more stageas today than i can poke a stick at

nice cruise and cheers again kirsty for the map organisation checked my motors health after the cruise and its perfecto so im happy oh and ill post pics tommorow night as i left the digi cam in the car

heres my exhaust clearance at the moment with it as low as i can go... thats the muffler and its jammed hard against the underbody and has 60mm clearance from the floor lol not fun over speedhumps surely your exhuast will be touching the ground Grant if u go lower than u are?

Hey Al im unsure on costs sorry, i know the 32 gtr and 33 gtst calipers (both the same) are fairly cheap, around $400 for a front pair as a rough estimate and slotted 297mm rotors from DBA would be around $400 for the pair as well. i bought the 34 brembos and 330mm rotors so i dont know about the other calipers/rotors except that they definately bolt on good luck and catch u guys on the cruise tommorow

yes they are i think only issue is the rotor dust shield needs a touch trimed off it to clear the bigger calipers. u need the r33 calipers and the r33 rotors to suit (297mm i think from memory). r32 gtr also fit as do the 33 brembos and 34 ones. gotta love nissan and the number of interchangable parts between models

got mine just in time thankfully

put some r33 gtst or r32 gtr calipers and rotors on it, its definately needed if u do any spirited driving as the stock brakes are horrible and with automatic u cant use the gears to slow u down either

if u want to let the turbo cool down than wait in the car for 30 secs or whatever, by the time u wind up all the windows and get ya shit together im sure 30 secs would have passed. if u aint got 30 secs to spare than thats your problem dont thrash it for the last few corners of driving and u dont even need to leave it idleing

race series are what everyone with big power motors reccomend

got mine about 4 months ago and it was the last one in stock in Oz from memory but the nissan guy said they could supposedly get more (that was his opinion, but everyone else said they are not available anymore). mine was from Northside Nissan in Perth. Ring them and talk to steve barnes he will be able to get u the right info not cheap but good insurance when going for over 600hp+

hey grant i think the stagea stock brakes are the old style where u gotta remove caliper to do them, unlike the gtst and gtr ones. i got brembos and they are soo simple to swap pads over

rubber mount all the pumps and i put mine under the rear of the car rather than in the boot (its a stagea so i had plenty of room under the car behind the fuel tank). no fumes and less noise

thats a very healthy motor from my understanding anything under 15% leakage is good condition

i dont know what are zeros and what are o's so thats the pic of the box my n1 block come in

my guess is cracked piston ringland if the dipsticks blowing out and pressuring the sump, thats how my 26 died any idea if its pumping oil out of the breather hoses excessively?

very nice mate welcome to the ever growing perth stagea owners club did u import it or buy it from a caryard in perth? or over east?

either the pads slide out when u remove the circlips holding them in or if they are the old style ones u need to unbolt the calipers (2 bolts, 17mm i think from memory) and pull caliper off and pull pads out and get a G-Clamp to press the piston back in enough for the thickness of the new pads so they can slip over the rotor, then install new pads pretty easy task, should take about an hour for first timers

had my stage tuned a few weeks ago on 15psi and only reving to 6000rpm due to fuel issues (supposed to be 9000rpm) it made 480rwhp next tune this tuesday on about 20-22psi and 9000rpm limiter

is this the new f**kin wasteland jesus fellas jk i dont give a shit what gets said in my threads

i got a fuel setup for around 850-900awhp and that is a bosch 040 intank pump feeding to a 3L surge tank which runs into twin fuel filters before going to twin bosch 044 pumps then a Ypiece and dash 8 (1/2') single feed line to the front and then into a Y piece with twin -6 lines (3/8') into a sard dual feed fuel rail with sard 1000cc injectors and return is single dash 6 (3/8') into a sard regulator and returns to surge tank with dash 6 (3/8') line. gotta love the humming of 3 bosch pumps all at once lol