CruiseLiner

dont hold back with your comments now john jesus i think hes more than likely feeling pretty shitty and i doubt he feels very stupid and i wouldnt expect other forum users to say shit like that, not very nice imho im after a few bits and pieces as well rob if u dont mind parting things out. what colour is the interior trim? if its grey i need the drivers side rear strut top plastic trim cover and drivers side little clip that the cargo cover clips onto near the back liftup door area, ill take photos tommorow to show u exactly. also the cargo slide cover thing as we discussed a week or so ago. sorry to hear about the accident mate its not a pretty sight glad u came out without injury thankfully. cheers Brad

my ratios in my stagea were 4.3 and gtr diffs are 4.11, they are interchangable, and i installed the gtr internals into the stagea diff housing so all the attessa pump brackets remained as gtr have theres mounted elsewhere. the gtr and stagea housings are identical in size/shape except the mounting points for the pumps, etc. u can either use the larger gtr backplate or the stock stagea one, i had to modify the xmember a fraction (about 2-3mm) to allow the gtr backplate to fit on without touching the xmember. ask away if u need any questions answered as i did the conversion about 14 months ago. to answer your question, yes the ratios are interchangable.

hey dirty32, nah the soarer is my mates car, and yes he lives in iluka and works on it all the time, and building his supra drag car as well. i live just around the corner in a cul de sac so people dont see me workin on mine all the time haha. im always around his house in a black mistubishi gto so if u see it there stop and have a chat or even a stagea as it will be running very very soon.

f**k rob thats bad shit mate, the motors been ripped out even, what happened? hope u are alright and no injuries???

so they have gtr suspension then and do they have the smaller wheelbase like the autech or not i wonder? i have very very little wheel clearance due to the angle of the coilovers in the rear as the hub section where the coilover bolts onto is abit too far out from the diff and thats the reason the autech models have the shorter track to allow coilovers to sit straight up and down (and also the wheel clearance). anyone with a rs4 want to take a pic of the angle of the coilovers in the rear from a behind view so i can get an idea? this is mine...

i agree with Ian, the kms mean bugger all, the kms are always dodgy and if u beleive every import has 67000km or 76000km u are a gullable person. 133 000km might just be legit kms and if its in good condition interior wise and body wise then u know its been looked after. do a comp test and leakdown test on the motor and u will know its health (workshop can do this for not very much $$). the auto will last for ages as well. to say these cars are gonna fall apart at 133 000km is not very true, i would think a proper looked after rb25/auto should clock 300 000km without many failures if serviced correctly and maybe the occasional water pump change or something, but the auto and engine wear will still be fine. (if its left standard im saying, not a moded one) i think interior condition is the number 1 way to tell if its been looked after or treated like shit. paint isnt a good thing to look at because half of them have been resprayed or touched up by the dealer before u buy. check for rust in back tailgate under the rubber seals at the bottom and under the rear view mirrors and do a leakdown/comp test and check the condition of the oil and coolant so see if its dirty or pull the oil cap off and look at the rockers and u will tell if oil changes were done on a regular basis because they willl be covered in gunky black goo if they didnt do them enough or clean as if its serviced properly. importing one yourself has wayyy to many possibilites for problems in my opinion and i'd much rather see the car in person as u know exactly how good photos make cars look and in person they look soo tacky and shitty its not funny. thats MY 2c worth

darrin i thought the same thing, do u reckon raws would even pick up on the conversion? surely if its done correct it would look factory?

spotted stageagirl and sweetleaf on the sau cruise last nite, i was lookin for you kylie to say hello but i couldnt find u, and sweetleaf i would of said hi, but u would probably think who the hell am i hahah

was a good turnout, didnt seem that many skylines though compared to usual, and the guy in the hq giving us the pshht pshht next to us and then we gave him some external gate action and sliding past his window, ive never seen other car passengers jaws drop so quick me and a mate were in the white old skool mz20 soarer. also had a good chat with paul (gtst vspec) about his car, looks nice mate and it will definately surprise alot of people when its tuned and running full power nice to chat after all the previous political debates on sau over the years

i havent got a scanner but i have taken some photos of the mag with my digi camera, heres a few pics of the pages...

hey ian, the easiest way to tell the 2 different axle sizes on the rear diff are the bolt up areas on the shafts to the diff. the stagea ones are 2 bolts together in 3 seperate lots and the gtr ones are 6 evenly spaced bolts all the way around. hard to explain but u will see if u look on my first pic. take a pic of the axle section that bolts onto the diff housing and i can tell u which it is. heres measurements i did from an old thread on the diff conversion and comparision of gtr to stagea parts... Splines into hub stagea 29.82mm gtr 32.65mm axle thickness stagea 28.07mm gtr 30.07mm swaybars stagea 19.25mm gtr 25.60mm rear brake rotors stagea 265.05mm gtr 297.02mm axle to diff uni joint size stagea 90.63mm gtr 98.94mm

ive just got HPI issue number 75 and theres a silver stagea with a r34 front end and a rb26, damn bastards beat me in the magazine lucky its only a stock 26 its even got almost same rims but a different brand and also the r34 brembo brakes. looks nice none the less check it out when the magazine hits the shelves as i get it early as im a subscribed member. also the stagea is for sale, i wonder how much they are asking for it???

my first car was a vl turbo and when i chucked a pod filter on it sounded really really good, with the noise as described by alex. sounds 100 times better than a bov pshhtt pshttt. go the vl turbos i would of still had mine except i wrote it off and thats how i came along the rb26 vl i bought after that, as i was only after a shell for my running gear from the first vl turbo, but i couldnt say no to the godzilla powerplant once i saw it

checkout this thread on supraforums about a ford probe with a 2jz/auto. its an NA 2jz with stock turbo pistons and head gasket and stock rods and stock cams, and a GT4276 turbo running 32psi. it has run a 9.00@153mph http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=376325 heres a video of the run... http://videos.streetfire.net/video/964b6d1...84d01896f24.htm show me a stock internal rb engine surviving on 32psi and running anywhere near that time in oz im getting me a 2jz one day, they are f**kin killer motors. i'd much rather be doing custom plenums and bolt on stuff on a 2jz than changing internals on a rb.

i dont know a vin sorry duncan but i do know i got a trade price qoute for the console of about $1100 its about 7-8 seperate peices u need and it aint cheap one guy on here was offering them for $750 last time i checked, ive done the manual conversion a good 2 years ago and i still havent got the courage to spend $800-$1000 on a piece of plastic, no matter how shit it looks without a manual console hahah, i just chopped the auto one best i could and put it in bodgy ftw

come on it looks like a volvo with a tempe tyre special set of rims on it c34 ftw and chrome is definately not suited to stageas just MY opinion

ugly car and ugly wheels

wouldnt have a clue sorry, im only into nissans i have a mate into the toyotas so ive learnt alot off his work. the 1jz box is actually the r154 2jz yank version has diff turbos, but they are still rather crap and a big single is more worthwhile and i have a funny felling they have different style injectors too, but thats only a guess. 2jz with a gt35/40 or gt40 or even t04z would be something to see

ive seen alot of vl rb30s over 600-700 000km no worries at all

dont forget u need a 5 speed box or 6 speed if ya rich, as most 2jz cuts are aristo models and auto. w58 i think is the 1jz 5 speed box and suitable for the 2jz, they are about 2k and pretty rare to get hold of. 2jz 6 speed is some bullshit price last time i checked and not really worth it over the w58. u got engine, box, clutch, ecu, turbo (stockies are shit), cooler, piping, engine mounts, exhuast, tailshaft, sump might be an issue?, wiring to factory dash, speedo, and general other bits and pieces. i would go a 2jz in a r33 gts-t anyday if i had the choice between that and doing a rb25 setup. stock 2jz are making 800-900hp at wheels safely (a rare few have gone over 1000hp) in the states but remember this is on there dynos which read alot higher (someone mentions 20% higher in some other threads). but u will never see a rb26 survive for long on even 500-600hp at wheels thats for sure. 2jz ftw i'd go a 2jz in my stagea but its 4wd

whyy cant people appreciate more than 1 car type without bagging the others??? f**k i'd prefer plenty of different types of cars, stop making it like the holden vs ford shit i hear soo often. different horses for different courses

that r32 gtst had a 7m toyota motor not a 2jz and yes it runs 9s with some mods. its from TRP workshop. they said they are switching to a 2jz soon as the 7m is now in a datto 1200 ute

checkout same crazy ford gt's around the states... 1100hp at wheels (twin turbo) this is some crazy yank with twin gt35s and hes making 1000hp+ as well, checkout the video it shows the entire buildup and lots of him street racing etc. well worth watching http://www.imvfilms.com/joesgttt.php they sound better than any rb26 ive ever heard and ever gonna hear thats 1012hp on stock fuel system and stock motor

i snapped rear axle with 350hp at wheels coming on boost in 1st gear (not a launch from deadstop), that was with a manual box and highflow turbos on rb26. i found out the axles are tiny and unijoints also. just found out the front driveshaft is also smaller than the gtr one as well. heres a pic of the comparo of gtr vs stagea axles in the rear... gtr is the bottom one and stagea is the top one heres where mine snapped also my stagea didnt have a lsd in the rear which is a pain with more power, so i switched a full gtr rear diff, axles, hubs, brakes, uni joints etc in. u will need custom length axles as well. best bet is to buy a series 2 manual and im 99% sure they all have gtr driveline (except the motor obviously), im unsure if the auto series 2 have lower spec driveline or not. hope it helps Brad

and no s2 fronts on s1 models hahhaha jk alex it looks hot mate