CruiseLiner

i own a stock as a rock gto and a rb26 stagea (500awhp+) and the gto is a killer car on the street, it pulls soo damn hard from 2000rpm its awesome out of corners, etc. top end lacks like the rb26 though as the turbos are tiny. i'd go a gto for daily duties as they have a great interior for the era they come out compared to same year gtr's which look soo 80s. the yanks are running low 11s for very little $$$ too, billet transfer case ($1200us) is the one part needed if u want to drag and make decent power, besides that they are very strong engines, and the yanks have produced 900awhp from stock internal motors and one has even run a 9 on stock internals. the motor has same strength as the 2jz from what ive read on the 3si.com forums. driveline is the major let down for big power. i dont like the understeer of the gto either. gto's killll gtr's for looks and i think an early model gto has as much sex appeal as a 34 gtr, they draw sooo many looks on the street as they look so fat, low roof line and sleek style. handling is very boat like though. gtr's are wayy too common now as well, i have seen only 3 gto's since i have had mine. gto = daily driver gtr = weekend thrasher gto with rims, suspension and exhuast = perfect daily car, able to keep up with 99% of hsv and fpv fords and look 100 times nicer as well thats my 2 cents worth

im after passenger side wind deflector that goes above the windows and down the a pillar area, any idea on price? also passenger side window switch price? need these delivered to perth so delivery cost would help alot thanks mate

its to let the oil and water cool down in the turbo by flowing through it after a thrash rather than switching it off with boiling oil and water in it and it cooking. my turbo spins for a good 40 secs or so after i switch it off, even when idling.

nice work jason, i think jeleousy ruins forums like this as everyone has something to pick on everyones car they dont like/agree with and reckon they could do better. how about if u dont like it, dont comment and go get your own money and do what the hell YOU want with it. always the ones with cheap budgets having a dig at the ones with big budget/power setups good luck with the new setup

jun 2.8l? i think u either meant jun 2.7L or hks 2.8L?

haha, dale in not saying the motor is NA im saying the car is and has had a turbo motor put into it. i will bet $100 that the T on the vin plate is done with an engraver and looks wayyy different to the other RB25DE letters. i would be going to the shop who complianced it and asking questions if it was me. surely they have broken the law by saying the car is something that it isnt (or wasnt should i say), and i bet they could get in some serious trouble over it. just my 2c worth, im not having a go at the car or nuthin just stating the facts of what ive seen cya at motorvation, dont forget to come have a chat

come on Dale i got a pretty good idea why its got no black glass and no front lip like the N/A models post a pic of the vin plate and see what everyone thinks of the T on the end of the RB25DET

i got twin 044 external pumps (and 040 intank pump) and on dyno today it was dropping pressure after 480rwhp, assuming one of the 2 pumps is dead or on the way out and they seem excessively loud and were bought brand new only a while back (only done 1000km run in with them since new) from a online seller here and i hope the hell they aint dodgy as mentioned above. i sent a PM regarding the dodgy seller to 180_mph.

hey mate i seen ya post i wasnt sure if u meant the same things so i posted anyway sorry for trying to steal the goodies

nice work yudy, go the 26 power

i need the rear cargo cover, passenger side wind deflector (above the passenger windows), and the passenger front door window switch if possible. send me a price and ill send the cash, sometime asap would be great

cheers buddy, ill see what i can work out when i get 5 min spare to try and sort out the 4wd

test fitted my skirts today and gave her a wash for the first time in 12 months done 850km of the 1000km run in too, and tune is booked for wednesday next week, before Motorvation, which is a big car show in Perth

how can i get attessa workin with an aftermarket ecu, anyone happen to know???? autronics is what i got but i cant tap into the tps signal for atessa ecu without altering volts from the autronics affecting the tps reading (100% throttle shows 20% throttle with attessa wired up off tps sensor as well because of voltage drop) surely someone must know ???? could i wire the stagea ecu up to ignition with just the attessa wires going to it and would it make 4wd work correctly without all the other engine sensor wires connected? theres 3 wires from the attessa ecu that connect to the factory ecu and they are... throttle signal + throttle signal - tacho signal tacho is easy, its the 2 tps wires i cant work out without affecting the ecu tps readings. hope someone has some info Brad

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jesus yudy u are always causing trouble

thanks guys, and paul i will do the km's this week easy its the find a tuner a week before motorvation thats difficult to do be sure to come over and have a chat, and ill come and check out your setup as i never even got a looksy under the hood last time thats if im allowed near the workshops stand ahahha good luck mate Brad

im in and entering the stage this year, shes only on a run in tune most likely as i only just got it running yesterday and need to do 1000km before then and find a tuner. dont forget to come say gday when u guys come down... im in the WOTLAW club stand and theres a few hot skylines and soarers, utes, wrx's etc with our club too. heres a pic of the motor at the moment....

i got autronics in my stagea and its an awesome ecu, just i cant find anyone in perth who knows how to wire up the 3 wires from the attessa ecu to make the 4wd run correctly i have a manual though and the rb26 rather than a 25

thanks guys for the advice i bleed the calipers as normal and it seems to be fine now

thanks mate but i already have the 32 gtr manual and it doesnt tell u how to bleed the brembos and it says bleed from top of the abs unit nipples in which my stagea doesnt have any and has 2 lines on top of the abs instead that run to the master cylinder.

hey guys its usually a simple task i know but ive emptied my master cylinder completely and now i need to rebleed the whole system since installing the r34 brembos and new braided lines. this is a wgnc34 stagea im talking about. now i have the r32 gtr workshop manual (i only got the jap stagea one so its no use to me) and it shows u need to bleed the abs unit itself, which has 2 nipples on the top of it, but the stagea one doesnt and only has 2 lines on top, so how do i bleed the abs? obviously the rest is easy and start from the rear left wheel, rear right, front left and front right last. any ideas on bleeding with the 4 spot brembos which have 2 nipples on each caliper? do i just do the left front wheel first and do the furthest nipple first, then the closer nipple and then the front right in the same order (starting from furthest to closest)??? any info appreciated

should be ready to cruise for sure, ive just about got mine running, another 3 days or so and its start up time, oh baby am i excited or what

cargo blind cover is mine, i am ready to pay the $100 u said u wanted for it and im just waiting for bank details to do a direct deposit mate let me know asap cheers. also after a few other bits and pieces i just got to check if they are worth the transport costs and whether i really need them thanks Brad

rob is correct, its connected to a little black box behind the dash and it does the beeping for doors open and keys in ignition as well i think and it pisses me up the wall as well i think its a good idea for reverse so u dont go planting it to the floor when u think its in 1st and u are actually in reverse