DRD-00F

its kinda weird... not to mention most race cars i've seen tend to use foam filters anyway and a very wise mechanic guy i know says they are better... not particularly for flow, but to keep shit out of your engine...

3A RACING Power Stack Filter The 3A Racing Power Stack has all the features & finish of the Simota Power Stack. Width 160mm Height 130mm Neck 77mm so what the hell is the difference between simota and 3A? is 3A the Australian outlet for simota? check the pages out too, almost EXACTLY the same... http://www.simota.com.au/ http://www.3aracing.com.au/

ok, so the requirements for helping is having very high interest in these cars? perhaps even... Loving... them? and being nice and shit i spose too...

First linky: You can get stuff like that at pretty much any car accesories store... autobahn etc... they can probably even order in some cool ones they dont bother to shelf for you but that guy seems alright, if you want those exact ones, they are baout the same price... just make sure you get the right type... second linky: Xenons dont fit into skyline headlights (most anyway) which is why HID's are around... but a lot of people here poo poo them cause its a very bright light, and not very well focused... a lot of people coming the other way wont like you very much... in the end, Xenons are 'the best' but i only know of one skyline that has them... and hes in the UK they are a super bright, super white light and the cut off is perfect... HID's are second, then your normal type bulbs...

i need a daily... cept i can see rust near the rear bar there and im not willing to drive that thing back from the ACT

no worries with any luck, you shouldnt ever have to oven your lights my headlights are apart, but only cause im planning something

no, only the parkers are at a right angle... the others do twist out, but they are straight on... theres a picture of one on and one off... with the one thats off, there is normally a metal holder in there where the globe goes in...

ok... here you have, on the left, an H4... kinda like an H7 but bigger... for older cars on the right is an H1... that is used for BOTH your high and low beams... you need 4 all up... top is the parker... you can see the globe and the holder... to get it out you have to get your hand on it, and twist the whole thing out... theres not much room so it kinda sucks... you only need the bulb part if you want to buy a new one...

the smoke and backfire is from putting too much fuel into the system... the car computer reads a lot of air rushing along (before BOV) and when you put the pedal down, adds fuel to the mix... if all that air is out in the atmosphere, it takes a second for the right amount of air to get to the block... if its recirculating, then there is a lot of air in there already, ready to go into the block... runs your car too rich and it stalls... Im not certain, but i think cars that are having this problem should go get a tune...

HELL YEAH! the more the merrier

I have a rough idea...

not afraid of failing are we? its ok, ill keep it simple maybe we could get the entrants to do a quick write up on their cars instead! like a little blurb about the main points of their cars... thats probably a better idea actually...

yes i know you will pass it im talking more about other people... everyone knows stuff about cars, but its just the level of knowledge im uncertain about... do they need to know what an intake plenum is? or how HICAS works? how much do they need to know?

the holders are yes... otherwise they are your ordinary car bulb... same thing you have in the cabin light...

I still say you should give these girls a pop quiz on cars... after all those people saying they dont want dumb blondes doing our talking...

i work at an internet provider... the accounts department is capped other end of the office hits over 24 meg a second... depending on other peoples servers

PM sent

no worries hope it all gets sorted out soon... if you go to that shop in the next two days, you should see my baby in bits

wanna swap?

give Taran on here a message... he will have plenty

H1... theres one in my mouth right now... the parkers are normal bulbs...

very nice same as what i did... cept no sound deadening do you think it makes a noticeable enough difference that i should go buy some?

thats good and all, but as for now, I'm not utilising anything near what that amp can do... i keep saying everything in the boot is temporary i plan on having 4 or 2 gauge out of the amp to a power distribution block () then either 4 or 8 to the subs... these things are stable down to .5Ω's kinda handy when you have 2 dual voice coil subs off a mono block at the moment, the weak point in this system is the 500watt subs... even with heat and size resistance, they still cant handle whats coming to them... oh, another weak point is the boot... it flexes a lot... and my head... that hurts sometimes... i have to choose 2 new subs now as well... i was originally going to go with 2 15' subs, but these boots arn't that big and it would be VERY impractical to have what i want... -Subzero-15 - 2500W peak - 1250W RMS - Recommended sealed enclosure range: 3 to 3.5 feet cubed Features - Over 4" long throw excursion - 3" High Temp flat wire dual (2x4ohms) - Dual Nomax / Romax spider construction - 8 gauge speaker connections --Mounting Depth 7.5" get two of those together in a dual slot port box and you need a lot of room im thinking about going down to the 12 inches... its only 1000W though... would LOVE the HoLee-S though... its f**ken nuts! # SPECS # Sensitivity 85.0 dB # Qts .338 # Fo 25.475 Hz # 15,000 Watts Peak # 7000 Watts RMS each coil # Over 4" long throw excursion # Dual (2x1ohms) 4" x 8" High Temp military grade flat wire voice coil. # (4)Quad Nomax / Romax spider construction # 8 gauge speaker connections # 112lbs. # Recommended Enclosure # 6-10 Cu Ft 1" MDF Minimum # Port Surface 107.25 sq in # Port Length 18.5" Depending on the tuning frequency not in this car got any other subs you wanna suggest? go nuts

PHD5000WD/1 though technically its a J class amp i believe... i dont have a problem as of yet, but theres a good chance i will in the future if i ever get a chance to utilise all that power... everything in the boot at the moment is temporary til i design a boot that im happy with... which so far hasn't gone so well i may have to make some sacrifices and be less original then i want to be... people highly underestimate wire sizes... its got 8 gauge out of the amp into the subs... trust me, that is plenty... ive run some powerful temporary systems on really bitch wire for some time... it was that or nothing... each time it has held up fine...