75coupe

it will if you have the holes already there otherwise you would need to drill holes to mount it... it came std on some series 2 r33s

yep thats how ive envisaged it, but with some way of getting to the sump plug for easy oil changes and possibly incorporate some air guides for brake ducting. How were you thinking of including your front under canards in to this? I was thinking of a way to mount the canards above this alloy sheet and have the alloy become more of a splitter and come out past the front bar slightly, it would then protect the bottom of the canards and also allow it to have a black splitter lip that would tie the canards into the front bar... now just to figure out what to put between the canards in the middle of the front bar to fill the gap between the bottom of the front bar and alloy splitter, Im thinking fibreglass to join the canards together underneath...

and you always run those hoses that close to the fan????

I reckon learn a good method, save money doing things yourself and get the satisfaction as well... its not a hard thing to bleed brakes, its one of the basic car maintenance things that every enthusiast should know. just think it out exactly what your actually trying to achieve so understand what the process is and why its done a particular way then you'll be able to complete it correctly... plus it always helps if you have someone who knows it to show you once or twice...

I tow with my D40 Navara 2.5td manual, it rocks, fuel consumption is heaps good on highway runs, normal non towing I get 10L/100ks and when towing I can get 14L/100 maybe more if its alot of around town towing... comfortable and drives good and handles 4WDing prett well just needs a lift kit if your into 4wd heaps... stx or st model for all the interior electrics... you can buy mine off me for $20K, I want to get a brand new one...

yep you can take the housings off the turbo without a worry...

It wouldnt matter if the rotors were being grabbed by the calipers or not, your bleeding fluid piston position wouldnt matter, but if the rotors are still loose then there is something wrong. If your still getting dirty fluid through occasionally then your bleeding wrong changing pads wont have any impact on brake fluid or needing to bleed... I usually bleed the whole system by myself, using a clear tube that fits snug on the nipple and have it go up and over the top suspension arm into a clean glass jar that way air bubbles rise up to the top when they come out and when I release the pedal it only sucks in clean expelled fluid... Ive done this many times on a few different cars and always works fine, Ive flushed whole systems this way by myself...

Shouldnt it be crack the nipple pump peddle till new clear fluid is seen and on last pedal downstroke seal nipple..?? Do you have ABS?

no I dont would think so.... front and backs would stick out a bit I think... +22 or +28 would beeasier to fit but still would need to be lipped and flared possibly... Im suthere are more knowledgeable people on here that can be sure of that but Ive been looking at 17x9.5 all round on gtst and figured they would need to be between 22-28 offset and still need guard work...

I can smell another group buy coming along.... Great minds think alike. Ive got the sheet of alluminium but thats as far as Ive got so far...

Ive been in a few cars with painted interiors and all them had the paint smell, it never went away... reupholstered would be the way to go for sure...

Terrigal is ummm defect city on a Fri/Sat pretty much isnt it....

surely it would come down to the person who tunes them... eg. I had a remap done by the god of remaps and then install a PFC tuned by fred at fred's mech repairs and there was little difference, I would not waste my money again in PFC or I had a remap done by fred's mech repairs and then install a PFC tuned by Unique Autosports and the difference was amazingly huge.... remaps suck ass so real world experience will tell you stuff all IMO, personally PFC will shit all over a remap but Im looking at it from the point of view of future capability of the ECU as well...

Im not sure about the offset question, but go for a bright colour... and then match that bright colour on a racing stripe down the side... or just boring old silver...

sounds a bit rich to me... I got $250 to paint a fibreglass bonnet and fit aerocatch bonnet locks Id expect $1300 to fit and spray a whole kit, maybe get some more quotes...

wait this is the third thread youve started trying to sell the ECU and everytime you havnt listed a price and teh thread has been locked... wtf post a god damn price and photo of it, preferably with the daily newspaper front page in the shot so we know your not schonky..

Would love to get something like that for my 33, but where do you start with finding someone to make it???

really an 040 isnt big enough??? mines flowing enough to feed 550cc injectors without a fuel reg or rail pressure bump and Im sure Ive read it can supply larger injectors too.

..

some series 2 gtsts came from factory with the gtr spoiler with blank end plates so is it really the 'gtr spoiler' or the just the 'adjustable skyline spoiler'...

Im actually in NSW on the Central Coast, its not a shame at all... Id get both front and back done Im pretty sure if your fronts dont have a camber kit you will be needing one as well to get the perfect camber setting on them, Im using both front and back and Im at a similar ride height to you as well and got the suspension then aligned by a suspension workshop that handles alot of rally and track cars, very noticeable difference once it was setup properly. Its easy to remove the arms couple of bolts, may need a good breaker bar or extension though, I took the arms down to a local suspension workshop and get the old bushes pressed out and new ones pressed in for $50 and then went home and installed the arms, I also did my sways and coilovers at the same time and then went and got it all aligned... I like doing the work myself and also saving money win win really from my perspective...

I dont trust your advice personally... youve suggested 300-320 on stock internals, you've recommended BC coilovers as being good bang for buck, and said 18s are better than 19s purely because of tyre cost... all of which I think is just crap...

At that height I believe you need a camber kit if its the same as on gtst, I would get both front and back, just get the whiteline adjustable camber bushes for front and back, and yes any reputable suspension place can install them alternatively its quite easy to remove the arms and take them to a workshop for them press out the old bushes and press in the new ones, 10T press required... then you can just bolt the arms back in and go get an alignment... $150 approx for each kit I can remember exactly, check forums for people selling new kits or even ebay they come up sometimes... buy new though, you'll need one for back one for front, and they are different part numbers.... all of this info is pretty easy to find on the forums been done a heap of times...

oh sorry, option1garage are in the business trader section... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348389-federal-595-rsr-new-year-blitz/

how much room have you got on the inside? is this running any spacers?