jeffworld2

i will come watch, my car is not ready.

are you near glenfield at all? i have a selection here

if not a factory computer, this can be caused by having the first few cells of the map unbalanced, ie on powerfc first 3x3 should be the sameish in fuel and timing, otherwise you get this sort of thing as it jumps through bouncing off different values. if standard ecu, check your afm wiring and plug, and if all good try cleaning or getting a replacement aac valve

can almost see where it goes.. probably 14mm socket

goes on the highest bolt on the drivers side. it has a little bend in the bracket, that locates it onto the flat part at top of the bellhousing.

maybe you forgot your idle air feed/ without it your car wont idle. does it cough or when you try and start or just do zip.

just an update.. on my twins i have them both being fed through a single afm. this was the only way we could accurately meter the air going in, and you have to know how much is in each turbo. so im running a big afm and rb25 power fc

actually im glad he posted. thanks godzi1la

greddy washer came in my mspec kit.. hopefully you dont have to buy the whole kit though. alternatively i dont think it would be hard to make one. get another coolant reservoir and drill two holes in it and reuse the rubbers

my bride rail says r32, r33, and a31. assume fits the same in all

wont say greddy. they are not greddy they are copies

that is a very cool front bar

stock bulbs, and the battery has been disconnected for 3 months. they cooked under the carport

try using a gasket such as maniseal as well as the metal gaskets. smear some on both sides of the gasket when you install. the popping is from oxygen contacting the hot unburnt fuel- ie you have a leak somewhere.

If there is only one bolt hole on the bracket, and its cams cert'd, you are doing it how they designed it

not sure it exists. good luck

i take the whole console thing out and clip it on there. makes it easier to find in emergency i hope

i thought most bride's pass adr's?

you can get them from autobarn etc up here in syd quite easily. that "drift" brand make them and are probably the cheapest. also hks etc have similar offerings. they are called exhaust control valves (ECV) or exhaust valve controllers (EVC) by most manufacturer's., and are basically a throttle body for your exhaustdrift ones are around 170 bucks

mine was 93-4, now is over a hundred again still with the peII. i want to put the old exhaust on again and see lol it used to be 100+ on the stock turbo. i guess turbo choiuce is a bit different to you guys tho. right now car idles like open pipes with the peII

JUST DID THE SAME THING had a pe II because they are nice and quiet, now what do i do lol

anyone had theres kinda melt? mine are fuxored

any bov will not stall if you tighten it up a lot. my line was imported with hks ssqv and never stalled. about 6 months in everyone i knew was getting pulled over so i changed to an r34 gtt bov, which is the same as a gtst, and can still hear turbo noises to make me love driving the car, but dont have to worry about getting into trouble lol. its a stupid thing to be defected for, especially when the original equipment is so good

i would suggest that with the straight exhaust, it is easier for air to go through the turbine wheel than to bypass it through the tiny wastegate. so even though the wastegate is open, its going through the turbine randomly when it gets backed up. either that, or your boost controller is somehow shagged. i'm assuming its just a bleed valve, so it should be one setting only type operation not fluctuating between like an ebc can. a good ebc may help control it, but you may want to look into trying someone elses exhaust for 10 min. to get the wastegate enlarged by gcg etc is a big job for a gain you can only see on your boost graph. it would be possible to tune around the problem and still get a smoothish result if the tuner is ok

anyone know where i can get some in eastern australia at all? lol