Amaru

Thats exactly what you get for buying a high grade forged piston. The strength is determined by the silica content which expands with heat. The pistons are ovalled so when they expand they become a perfect circle. If they were this shape when cold they would not work at high temperatures once expanded (they would jam in the bore because they would physically become to big). Its not a problem, its something you have to live with when using high quality forged pistons. Arias are exactly the same. As for the oil squirter, had the exact same problem with Arias pistons. Machined a little off the oil squirters and they cleared it fine.

If your car is not road worthy, it is not legal to be driven on the street and you are BREAKING THE LAW. No-one will insure you for illegal activities... what did you expect? Granted most people drive unroadworthy cars, but it doesnt make it legal.

Their octane ratiung however is calculated on RON+MON/2, whereas ours is just RON. American 91 octane is basically equivilant to our 98 octane, and the 94 octane well surpasses out premium fuels.

The flutter is caused by the air thats in the inlet tract coming back out the airfilter when the throttle body is closed (when you jump off the throttle). Its called thrust reversion and another commonly associated word is thrust reversion damage (a turbo spinning at 100,000+rpm and suddenly has air forcing its way back through it the wrong way). Its easy as pie to make your car flutter... remove your stock BOV and make sure you have a pod filter. With aftermarket bovs they reason they flutter is the bov is either not venting at all or only partially venting and the rest of the air is going back out the intake. On a stock ECU it can cause all kinds of problems as the air thats expected to go into the engine doesnt make it in but the fuel does causing it to partially flood itself etc.

Well each day that passes its more and more likely that I will be there. Any reccomendations for accomodation close by?

I had my RB26 rebuild 3 years ago using standard crank with ACL race bearings, standard conrods shotpeened and ARP2000 rod bolts, and Arias forged pistons. Car was making ~350kw at the wheels for this period, and it never missed a beat. Pulled the engine down and it was still in pretty good condition after the abuse it copped from my right foot. As you are not after a heap of power I would reccomend the following;\ Standard crank with JUN oil pump collar (Proengines sell a JUN copy for a fraction of the price which does the job fine). ACL race series bearings Eagle conrods (cheap as chips at the moment) Arias forged pistons That bottom end will hold up for a long time with the power you are aiming for. Give the head a good service, do a bit of porting and polishing while you are at it and slap it back together with a decent headgasket.

Still tossing up wether to go or not... should know in a few weeks.

I agree, the commentators spoiled what would have been an awesome F1 race, possibly the most entertaining in 2006. Sure, he won his first GP. But its only taken him how many years? He isnt that great a driver in my opinion, and had a few other drives stayed in the race it could have turned out completely differently. I would have been more impressed with the win if half the field hadnt DNF'ed. As for coming from 14th... didnt Alonso come from that part of the field to lead for quite alot of the race? Keeping in mind Alonso and Schumi both came from the back of the pack too, its not that great an achievement.

I bet Williams will be in the top 3 runners next year. Hope Renault can find their form again after the loss of the mass-dampner. They went well in 2005 without it, hopefully the loss of this plus the switch to Bridgestones next year doesnt cause them to fall back to the mid-field (and leaving Webber in a similar position should he sign with them).

http://www.f1racing.net/en/news.php?newsID=126202

Im going to go in the other direction for what people are saying and go with a choice that has about 0.01% chance of happening... Ferrari - Raikkonen, Webber!

Read an article a few months ago which explained why this scenario would never happen, due to Webber and Mercedes motorsport manager being on bad terms after the famous Le Mans accidents. Apparantly Mercedes wanted to reduce the amount of money they paid Webber, Webber gave it to them up the hilt in the form of a signed contract, they paid and Webber was never to be involved in a Mercedes team again.

Just talked to someone at Dickson Motor Registry who confirmed all imports must go through Dickson Inspection Station. Talk to Technical Standards, they are the ones that make the rules and know whats enforceable and whats not. Unfortunately 90% of people at the shopfronts dont know the difference which is why it will get registered using a RWC from a normal mechanics. As I said, its not uncommon for mechanics to issue RWC's and the car to be registered at a shopfront using said RWC, but that is simply because staff havent been educated properly on prcedures and processes. Whilst you could tell people it doesnt have to go over Dickson, and there is a fair chance it will slip through, at the end of the day giving out that information is wrong (especially if you piss away $38 at the mechanics to have the shopfront turn you away because it wasnt issued by the dickson inspection station). You got through, congratulations, im certainly not going to say your rego isnt valid etc. But following the letter of the law and all rules and regulations as can be clearly read on www.rego.act.gov.au and various ACT legislation documents, all imported vehicles when transferring ownership must go via dickson pits.

Wrong. As posted above, if its an import for any new registration, transfer of registration etc it must go over dickson pits for an inspection. Thats straight from www.rego.act.gov.au and you can verify it over the phone. Thats not to say workshops wont give you an RWC and someone who doesnt know the difference between an import and a normal car at the shopfront wont accept and register it and that it hasnt happened before. But if you are following letter to the law, it must go over Dickson and if it doesnt, dont be suprised if in 12 - 18 months down the track you get a "random" re-inspection and cop an absolute grilling over it.

Bring a bunch into Australiua then as I know quite alot of people who are after them. For the past 2 months it has been virtually impossible to get hold of one. Everyone promises the world yet cant deliver.

I wouldnt worry too much, I wouldnt be suprised if in the next 12 - 18 months the "street-drag" scene in Japan comes alive again with RH9, 0-300, drag style events. Then everyone will be back to loud exhausts and stickers

Some mechanics will give you the RWC, but if the person at the ACT shopfront knows what they are doing it will get knocked back because its not a Dickson issued RWC. If they still register it, chances are you will then get called for a random re-inspection in the next 6 - 12 months once they find the error.

JAL do return from Sydney to Tokyo for just under $1300... Im thinking this sounds like the goods now and no dodgy Jetstar-ness.

Can anyone provide the date for TAS 2007 so I can try and work around that? Have to catch up if youre over there too Beer Baron, since you have been there before and all. EDIT: Nevermind, found it. 12 -> 14th Jan.

Yep its $249 from Sydney to Osaka.

Need to call Jetstar about that. Also what day is the TAS on?

Hi Guys, Well I am taking up Jetstar on their $249 flights to Osaka because well its cheap (and yes im aware it will be a cheap crappy plane). Planning to go for up to 10 days to check out TAS07 and do some sight seeing (old temples and buildings etc). Just after some information really on places people would reccomend to check out while there etc. Ideally I would like to make TAS the first day of my trip so the rest of the time can be used for sight seeing. Also any info on how one gets from Osaka to Tokyo, and also reccomended hotels in Tokyo that are fairly close to TAS. Thanks in advance

Why do you want 272's on a stock motor? They are designed for higher horsepower turbos running at higher rpm's than what you will be able to currently run (e.g GT-RS, T04Z etc). The Tomei 260 degree poncams are the pick of the bunch for mildly modified engines (2530's, N1's etc) so would be ample for stock turbos. They are straight drop in, assuming your current shims arent worn to badly. If they are you will need to reshim the head at an average cost of $10 per shim.

I dont think you will find what serial number. However having seen many 1993 and 1994 engines, it was some time within the first 3 months of 1994 they started building with the upgraded crank drive.

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