Amaru

Whilst I will agree Nissan would have done some R&D on their oils, the fact remains it was designed for standard engines. You have already said it is running a substantial amount more power than factory (GT2871R) so the Nissan oil is probably well beyond what it is capable of in terms of lubrication etc. I agree with Beer Baron, a better oil probably would have delayed the inevitable. However as everyone has said, the metal is there so the damage has already started. Its going to be a progressive downward spiral from here so you better start budgeting for a rebuild.

Last year you could pick them up no problems. You cant do that anymore as production has stopped in Japan and there are none left in Australia, and very rare and expensive in Japan now.

damn straight

It actually has a pretty decent tune on it AFR wise, its certainly not way too rich (it doesnt even hit 11.5:1). Your description of blueish smoke isnt petrol, its burning oil somewhere. If it was running too rich it would be a grey/black colour.

Apparantly 2-5 unused blocks have found their way on to the market in Sydney in the past few weeks with a going price of $7000ish. Just what I have heard from a couple of people though, unsure how true it is if you actually went to buy one.

From what I read/was told a while ago, the HKS car is substantially lighter than GTR-700. It is comprehensively stripped and is just the chassis, panels, motor and seat. It is even lacking alot of the safety gear ANDRA dictate GTR-700 must run which gives it another weight advantage.

Rev limit was 8500rpm (250rpm up from standard) and the engine actually saw close to 10,000rpm at one point in time. Bore was measured and had no distortion, so was still in good condition.

You machine the the oil pump drive on the end of the crank back, press the collar on and grub screw it in for good measure... and thats about it

Awesome Considering there wasnt much difference in it anyway I think it would be safe to now say CRD are doing the kit brand new for cheaper than most of the second hand ones floating around.

Faulty actuators causing the wastegates to stick open?

Greenline and Nengun dont include things like shipping, import taxes etc in their initial prices. Once you factor those in I would say they are pretty competitive. I just bought a fairly sizey turbo kit from Lance brand new (turbo, manifold, wastegate, dump pipe, decat pipe) and it was only a few hundred more than what I have seen people selling them second hand/used for.

Think I dropped my car off at just the right time... 38GK here I come!

How well did you check the turbos, e.g. did it still have the rear exhaust wheel in tact?

I believe it was 690awkw on 25ish-psi... or around that figure somewhere

Earlier series 1 models (pre mid 1992 I think it was) use H1 bulbs, later models use H3.

Couldnt make it up due to no car... doh

Can someone please check HCR32283676 ... need it quite urgently thanks

I think Brad and Buster should settle this with some sort of 0-400m jousting war... ill provide the jousts and popcorn...

It justifys the extra price over exactly the same Garrett item... "My car goes faster cause the HKS one has speed holes"

www.greenline.jp - They sell the Apexi laptop software and connection cable for 33,584 Yen (about $390 Australian / 230 Euro). Cheaper than the Datalogit software and you wont have to mess around with the hand controller anymore.

Forged

My wallet is feeling alot lighter today... but I have no idea what youre talking about

MANWHOR3, I would just like to officialy say you are a dickhead and dont deserve any help full stop. But since I am nice I will inform you what fluid it uses... It uses Nissan Matic D (also known as Special Power Steer Fluid) as has been told to you many times in this thread, so I dont know why you keep whinging for an answer. If you dont believe this that is fine, but its documented in all GTR workshop manuals and this is the same for A-LSD equipped GTS-t's. Now quit your bitching and instead of whinging no-one has answers, how about you go and experiment and find out yourself next time? A simple call to any Nissan dealer would have given you the answer you are after.

Hey CEFFIE, need to get that fuel reg off you... can you PM me your ph # and ill call you on the weekend? Ive been lazy

Your clutch sounds fine. Richard has the dampened version meaning its friendly to drive and doesnt make that god awful rattle. It sounds like you have the non-dampened version which is alot harder to drive and makes that rattling sound. Ask anyone what my car sounds like, im using a HKS un-dampened twin plate and when the clutch pedal is pushed in it makes a screaming really loud rattling, and when idling it clunks away. Its also next to impossible to get the car to move without wheel spinning or stalling... but after 6 months driving I did find the tinyest little sweet spot where it would go without complaining too much. Clutch was brand new and these are the symptoms it had. Put it in 5th gear and floor it, if the revs jump up alot its slipping and needs replacement otherwise it should be fine. As for the injectors, I had leaking factory ones. They had been reco'd only 3 months before and started leaking again. I would toss them in the bin if they are leaking and just get new ones (those HKS are great value for the price, but if going up injector size you will need a re-tune to compensate for different lag times etc). The problems caused with the new injectors in mine was due to a stuffed O-ring blowing out under boost causing an air leak which made the car missfire really badly. Took ages to find the culprit (3 months) until it was on a dyno and my mechanic saw it push up slightly out the corner of his eye. $2 later and the car was running the best it had in a long time. Man I miss my car...