blind_elk

The duty cycle of the injectors is controlled solely by the ECU, based on information it receives from the various sensors on the engine (temp, air flow, throttle position, etc). The ECU is relying on the pump and regulator to be working "as designed" - it doesn't have any sensor input from them. The ECU computes the injector opening time based on the info from the sensors, including how much air it has computed is available, and directs the injector to open for a certain time. This is why engines melt pistons when fuel pumps start to "go off" - the pump can't supply enough pressure, which is the sole determinant of how much fuel gets injected while the injector is open. So the fuel mixture is over-lean (not enough fuel).

YOU WON'T DIE. I've done battery connect / disconnect numerous times. And I've accidentally created the spark show on many of those occassions.

S2 coils have inbuilt ignitors, S1 require an ignitor module (little black box, usually located on top of the valley cover, at the rear).

It could be the ignitor module itself. They seem prone to breaking down when hot.

I would expect that as the rotor rotates in it's normal direction, then the bit of slot nearest the centre / hub should enter the caliper first, and the outer end of the slot should enter last. If you were to put a pointer of some sort into the slot, then as the rotor rotates, the pointer would move from the inner to the outer end of the slot. Viewing the driver's side, with the slot at the top of the rotor, the slot should look like , and the passenger side should look like /. This orientation allows for hot gasses and other crap to be thrown to the outer edge of the rotor rather than being all bunched up near the hub.

The drive shaft doesn't actually hold the wheel in position. So a crook drive shaft would not exhibit the symptoms you desribe. Sounds more like a wheel bearing. Any half decent mechanic should be able to diagnose it. So, it moves when you grab the wheel at "3 o'clock" and "9 o'clock" and shake the crap out of it? Does it do the same when you grab it at "12 o'clock" and "6 o'clock"?

From what I've heard, you'll never get rid of it.

How On Earth Do You Do That?Back to the point - it's got nothing to do with the gauges. It's a thermal switch for the A/C cooling fan (the one out front of the A/C radiator).

By removing the oil filler, you are opening up an enormous air leak into the inlet side of the turbo (follow the hose off the passenger-side rocker cover). This air is "un-metered", so the ECU starts getting confused and tries to compensate. Had a case years ago with a Falcon that refused to idle properly - tried new ECU, tried everything. Had it to the dealers numerous times, could not work it out. Then, the APPRENTICE(!) commented the oil filler was on crooked - put it on properly, never had a problem after.

Change the brake fluid. Probably got a bit of water in it.

3) Pretty certain they are the same. 5) Same as GT-R 6) Yes 13) I'm running 180 Awkw through the stock gearbox 14) Viscous LSD, I believe 17) YES 19) 4-spotters front, 2-spots rear, probably the same as R33. A set of slotted rotors doesn't hurt.

I think your local Nissan dealer will be your best bet for these. But they aren't cheap (around $90 EACH). You could try Maltech in Victoria (check out the group buy from last year) for braided lines, at not much more than Nissan rubber ones.

I managed to do it with the 2-screwdriver trick. The screwdrivers need to be reasonably substantial, and you need a long breaker bar on the bolt. This was with the engine out of the car, though. Also helps to have a helper. I've also done it with the engine installed (to replace the water pump). Pretty sure I just stuck it in gear, and used a 18" breaker.

They are probably only slightly more expensive because of the differential in the sump. You could get one without a sump and transfer the GT-R's sump onto it (you will have to swap out the diffs anyway - different ratios). The other problem is that the looms are slightly different (2 AFMs, 2 O2 sensors, etc), so you might need a new ECU and possibly new loom. The only RB25 is from the Stagea, and they aren't cheap ($3500 - $4000)

It means "a pump for a VL Turbo", not "a 'turbo' pump for a VL".

I had a similar problem. The experts suggested there was evidence that I had been hitting the bump stops, so they shaved a bit off, and the understeer has lessened (other problems have kept some understeer, that's another story). Try tying a cable-tie tightly around the shocker rod, move it down as far as possible. Now go for a spirited drive, trying to get some understeer. Then check where the cable-tie is sitting. If its right up the top, then you have probably ridden on the bump stops (in which case you have a virtually infinite spring - understeer city!)

EFI pumps are meant to "push", not "pull", ie they need to be near the source of fuel.

You are aware these cars have fore / aft adjustment of the steering column (as well as up / down)? From my experience, the seats don't go all that far back, so it would be very difficult to get to a position where you needed to stretch to reach the steering wheel.

That's the rolling CIRCUMFERENCE! Rolling radius will be:(17* 25.4 + 235 * .45 * 2) /2 (approx 321 mm)

Generally, tyres that cannot be used on public roads will have "Not for highway use", or "Racing purposes only" or something similar to indicate that you CANNOT use them as a normal road tyre. If they don't have such a marking they are generally OK.

Just checked, mine's 732 also. (it's located basically in the middle of the manufacturer's plate)

The paint colour is on the build plate (manufacturer's compliance plate, not the ADR compliance plate), down the bottom. The "black" (mine has a slight metallic to it) is something like Y790. A good panel beater will know what to look for.

Adz, its Chicken KIEV! And I'll be there for my serving.

Spend $5 and get a spare cut at the locksmith's. If it doesn't work, you've only wasted $5.

Sounds like your original tuner had a crook A/F meter. Might be worthwhile mentioning it to him.