blind_elk

If yours simply stopped working I'll trade mine for yours (I only need one for appearances). PM me.

Have you tried with the fuel hose disconnected from the fuel rail? I recently replaced mine, and it took quite a while to get fuel at the fuel rail. I disconnected the hose from the rail, and had to do several "primes" of the fuel system (just switch ignition to ON, you get that initial 5 sec running of the pump, then OFF / ACC, then back ON).

How far out is it? Have you nudged anything while going sideways recently? If so you may have bent a control arm. But the rear camber is adjustable (by an ecentric bolt), check that out first.

Only needs the cable.

You can fit a matching crown wheel and pinion set in the front diff housing (I did that fitting the GTS4's set into a RB25DET ex-Stagea housing). If you had a 3.7 in the front and a 4.1 in the rear, then when you started getting FWD, the front wheels would try and pull the front of the car away from the rear of the car. If you had the opposite (4.1 front, 3.7 rear) then you would likely spin as the rear tried to catch up with the front. It really makes sense to have both ratios the same.

There might be something about this on the NGK website. And I recall someone (Zoom! or Autospeed) did this comparison a while ago. You need to have a coil that can generate enough energy to jump the plug gap. Even if if can, it may be so borderline in strength that it actually causes a worse burn than the narrower gap could produce. This is often why you need to gap down at higher boost levels - the poor spark is more susceptible to the higher cylinder pressures that come with increased boost. There's a lot of physics and chemistry involved - it's not just a simple matter of saying that a bigger gap will produce a better burn.

Probably just the shoes wearing a bit. Climb underneath and adjust the cable.

do a search for the HICAS diagnostic procedure first, then run the diagnostics just to confirm that it's a problem caused by the steering wheel

Cut out at 2500 rpm says Air Flow Meter(s) stuffed. Another possibility is a dying ignitor module (they become susceptible to heat, and stop working until they cool down a bit).

Any Autobarn, Repco, Supercheap, etc. Z145A, from memory. No such animal AFAIK. Mobil only make oil. The Ryco ones are more than adequate. :confused: How can a filter possibly make the oil turn black? It's residual "dead" oil that turns the (new) oil black.

I think the point that needs to be made is that in the general course of events, ie everyday driving, police should be setting the standard and driving within the commonly accepted realm of the rules of the road. I would expect that the situation outlined in the original post might be a case of where it was not "reasonable" to be in breach of the road rules (but I don't know all the circumstances, although I would have expected that the "passenger" could have taken the call). I don't have a problem with them bending / breaking road rules when there is a genuine emergency situation that requires them to do so.

And what does a 6 cylinder in-line do??????The main advantage of the rotary is that the "piston" (rotor) mass keeps moving in the same direction, unlike a "conventional" 4-stroke, in which the piston has to stop twice in each cycle (once at TDC, and once at BDC). So rotaries just keep revving. which is why they can make big power numbers (power = torque * rpm). They have pretty shite torque, but loads of rpm. (diesels on the other hand have enormous torque and shite rpm, but that's )

How low are they now? Probably need valves re-seated. New rings might help. If you want substantial increases, then you are probably going to need to re-engineer the engine, using fancy pistons with high domes, etc.

I'm pretty certain that the only 2 things that control the EFI pump are the relay and the ignition switch. If both these are working, but the pump doesn't, then the pump is past it's use-by-date.

Axle tramp is uncontrolled vertical movement of the wheels. What controls the vertical movement of the wheels? You've just found the answer.

C/R will be much lower than the current RB20DE setup, because the combustion chamber of the RB25 is much bigger than the RB20's. It will probably bolt on to the RB20 block, but will probably not work too well because of the additional bore diameter of the RB25.

Try ATTESSA 2WD switch, search during last 3 months. I found 3 threads, but I didn't check them out for useful content.

In DrvrFrnt.jpg, it looks like the rubber is separating from the metal. If that's the case, then the mount is ROOOTTED. Time to replace (both of them would be my recommendation). As for the fan, I think the heat causes the viscous clutch to allow the fan to "free-wheel" at higher rpms. How are the blades? Is it possible they moved forwards. You didn't hit some water or something did you?

I apologise for jumping on you, but it is a common question. I'll admit that the leaves a bit to be desired in its ability to home in on the key words. But it never fails to amaze me that someone would question if a warning light indicated a problem. It's not so much a problem that you shouldn't drive the car (like an oil warning light), but it is an indication that the car won't behave as it is supposed to. The usual answer is that you need to check the fluid level in the reservoir located in the rear RH corner of the boot (behind the side panel). Check the level with ignition "ON". But there may be some other cause that I have "no-eyed deer" how to diagnose and fix.

Try jacking the engine. Use a block of wood between the jack and the sump, and GENTLY lift the engine. You should be able to see the engine lifting off the engine mounts if they are broken.But I wouldn't expect that the engine could move forwards enough to allow the fan to collide with the radiator. That would mean the gearbox mount was knackered as well.

Try 34 rear, 38 front - higher front pressure will reduce the tendency to understeer.

Of course it's a problem! Try a search - this problem happens nearly every week.

I'll tell you now that it's the first sign the pump is about to die proper. Mine did yesterday. Managed to replace it with one I originally got to run the L20ET in my Z. Nissan want you to mortgage your house for a replacement. I reckon they are about the same size as a VL Turbo pump.

That's the one I got for mine, and it has a slot in the location for the small 6mm bolt - presumably so it can fit any RB series engine.

The major differences I can think of are that the GT-R runs 2 AFMs and 2 Oxy sensors. And it runs some circuitry (taps into the TPS signal) for the ATTESSA system. Some (later / S2) RB25 ECUs will have something to handle VVT. Other than that, I believe they are identical (same pinouts).