blind_elk

It can be done by just removing the TB. Then remove all the crap hanging around at the front of the plenum (FPR, PCV, etc). There's no need to split the plenum.

Basically, the air con is a de-humidifier, so it should be the most efficient at de-fogging the windscreen. Also, keeping the screen clean inside will minimise the degree of fogging in the first place. As well as smoke, the plasticisers in the vinyl of the dashboard can evaporate and coat the windscreen, providing a substrate for moisture to condense on.

My R32 GTS4 is called "BB" (Black Beauty or Black Beast). But after my recent piston detonation, I'm thinking of renaming her "Puff" (the tragic wagon)

And that seems to be determined by how long it has been since it was last undone.When I fitted the RB25DET to my R32 GTS4, I had to swap front diffs. On the RB25, the pinion bolt undid with the aid of an electric rattle gun. But the gun wouldn't come within a bull's roar of undoing the RB20's. Had to use a 4 foot breaker bar on a 3/4" ratchet head to undo it!

:bs!: Yeah, find yourself a competent tuner.Admittedly, takes a while to sort out cold starts. But I've never had a problem with idle stability. And 11 load bands * 250 rpm increments up to 16,000 rpm (both fuel and ignition), with interpolation in between, is not enough map points!??! (that's around 300 points each up to 7000rpm)

That was my initial thought.

I don't think it's the level sender - that's not bigger than a ciggy packet. And it will still (hopefully) be attached to the pump bracket. If there was a problem with the fuel gauge, then this doover is interfering with the operation of the sender's float. But I have NFI what the thing really is.

Sorry for the minor hi-jack, but just needed to say that the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.

The sunlight load sensor may not be faulty. Even parking under a tree on a bright summer day can still produce a "faulty" sunlight load sensor. Shine a bright torch on it while in diagnostic mode to confirm if it's faulty. The PBR has been covered previously - do a search (from a while ago, maybe 12 months or more).

If you are venting it to the inlet plumbing, then the can needs to be sealed, otherwise the inlet simply pulls (un-metered) air through the can vent. And you probably want it returning PRE-turbo, otherwise you'll blow all the air back through the can under boost.

Stick with the Mazda. Sick a couple of Recaros in it for the comfort factor.

The GT-R bar may be made from a thicker-walled tube, which would make it a "heavier" bar, both weight-wise and torsionally. I reckon the Whiteline bar is solid.

There's one with 4 wheel DRIVE (actually 2 - the GT-R and the GTS4), and all of them with 4 wheel STEER. You can get away with any P/S fluid.

Denny, I don't think you can get just the boots - you need to buy the whole tie-rod. And if that's the case, you may as well buy brand new ones (both sides). I know it's a pain, but that's how the parts are sold.

Get hold of a multi-meter, set to 20V DC. Fire up the engine.Measure V across battery terminals - should be around 14V at idle Now increase revs- V should remain around 14V. If V increases, then regulator is kaput.

You can get telescopic magnets (probably from Autobarn, Repco, etc) - stick that down the plug hole and it should attract and hold the errant screw.

I've only got the engine. I had to cannibalise the loom, and the ECU is for a GTS4 (so the engine has a GTS4 sump as well).

Most commonly the seals in the master cylinder. But I had a similar situation where it was the ABS unit.

Sounds like the ECU might be from a N/A engine. Have you made sure the diagnostics dial is returned to a "normal" position? What's the actual part number on both ECUs? (next to the "NISSAN" on the label). It will be like 23710 04U60 (that's the ECU from my GTS4 / RB20DET).

If you want some help, check your PM.

Me and my #2 piston will be there.

I'll have 5 pistons available next week or so (except #2 which is not a pretty sight after a tiny bout of detonation). But I need the rods myself for the rebuild.

Uprated springs and shock absorbers won't go astray. I'm personally not a fan of coilovers (the adjustable type) for basic road-cars - just don't see the need for them. Springs and shocks can only do so much. If you want to stop the body roll with springs only, then you will be up for a kidney transplant inside a week (the ride will be sooooo harsh and stiff, you will feel it when you drive over a cigarette paper!). Anti-roll bars (sway bars) will solve that part of your problem. Check out www.whiteline.com.au - they have a kit for the R33. Track and drift are different. You don't want drift at the track. And the suspension setup for one will (probably) be incompatible with the suspension requirements of the other. But as in all things, it's all a compromise.

Yes, check the brake fluid level. The revs is because the brake booster is taking some air out of the induction, and the pedal problem is because you probably have a bad seal somewhere in the brake system, which is why your fluid level is low and turning on the brake warning light.

PM sent