blind_elk

Firstly (once again), the fluid reservoir in the boot is for ATTESSA (4WD). Now, deorbit, has anyone played with the alternator recently? Make sure all the connections are firm. And check the P/S fluid.

Just to be a further wet blanket, but you should be reminded that in Victoria you are not permitted to drive a "high-powered vehicle" while on your Ps. Even the humble R32 GTSt fits the category (more than 125 kW / Tonne or 3.5 litres / Tonne). I know the cops don't / won't enforce it, but its presumably been devised for a reason. Same as 250cc max for motorbikes. For your own safety, if no-one else's, wait a while until you are more experienced.

I usually drive off (reverse out of driveway) within about 10 secs of (cold) starting the engine, but never pull more than about 3000 rpm, and never pull boost, until the engine is up to full operating temp.

Why do you need a turbo timer? Can't you spare 1 minute to stay with the car while the turbo cools down? Or you can't afford the time to slow up and stay off-boost for 1k before you reach your destination?

Will a R32 GTS4 do? This was on a Dynamic Test Systems dyno, which claims to be able to convert rwkw to fwkw: 4WD - 115awkw RWD - 145 rwkw flywheel (calculated) 175 kw

What about an undertray that sits between the air dam and the X-member. It should create a low-pressure area under the car by maintaining laminar flow at least until the X-member. It seemed to work OK on my Z.

Might be a common backing plate for the 4-cyls as well. The 6s (actually RB20DET) use the the positions I described earlier. You'll be able to tell if you're close, because the valves (ins and exs) on #1 will be closed and #6 will be just open (the inlet and exhausts will be on overlap - ins almost closed, exs just opening). Sounds right for the bottom pulley, just be sure to use the LAST mark (as you turn the engine) - that's TDC, all the others are BTDC. 2 teeth on the cam wheel is about 15 degrees of crank - probably more than enough to introduce a piston to a valve. Near enough is NEVER good enough!

Check the AAC valve, and clean it. Its the little valve located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold). Its what controls the air bleed at idle. Works like a screw moving a needle valve. If the screw or needle gets sticky, it lurches rather than run smoothly.

Borrow an igniter module and swap it over. Or you could wait until it cools down. Or stick the igniter module in the freezer for a few minutes. See if that solves it. They tend to pack up in the heat.

You locked the pressure adjuster in position? Have you checked what fuel pressure the Malpassi is regulating to?

This is for a RB20DET (probably works for other twin cams, not sure about RB30) Crank at TDC #1 Locate camwheel on the locating spigot. Align the marks on the camwheels with the marks on the backing plate (approx 10am on inlet, 2pm on exhaust)

Jay, Yeah, got it all sorted, wired thru a relay. And the DC thermo uses the original thermo switch as its trigger. Might actually look at positioning the DC thermo so that I can use the shroud as well.

I have a Davies-Craig DCL14 on my 32 atm. Its causing me no end of hassles. Firstly, I had to have the A/C fan rewired so that it comes on when the A/C is switched on (ordinarily thermo-switched from the switch in the bottom of the radiator), otherwise the gas over-pressurises. With a FMIC, the engine is quite susceptible to overheating. I had it out at Winton the other week, and the gauge tried to wrap itself around the H mark. Took about 15 minutes idling with bonnet up to cool down again. Lots of coolant being blown across into the overflow bottle. I'm seriously considering putting the factory fan and shrouding back on. Actually, have driven it in Adelaide in 40 deg heat in the factory configuration, black car, A/C going full blast, and the temp gauge never budged. My advice would be to leave it as Mr Nissan designed it. The couple of rwkw you'll gain isn't worth the worry. Ever considered that the thermostat might be faulty?

I'm not sure if you won't attract the unwanted attention of the constabulary. I understood that such lights were meant to be stationary ie not flashing at people behind you.

When I had an EFI in my 240Z, I had the relay for the fuel pump wired into one of those mounting blocks. Whenever I left the car anywhere, I simply took the relay with me. Its something they wouldn't expect to be missing. So either a (removable) relay onto the power input to the ECU, or maybe just a hidden switch. Or you could try the Jaycar In-Car alarm - 110dB screecher siren mounted INSIDE the cabin. Worked for me.

Then there's nothing to hold the plug in the socket

BOoStEr, I was told that's what needs to be done. They didn't mention any stuffing around afterwards.

The problem comes after you put the plug back in - often, the extension pulls out of the socket because the rubber grabs too well on the plug.

Driving up to Sydney Queens Birthday before last - got breathalyzed THREE times on the way up. Of course, blew 0.000000 every time.

A trick when dealing with spark plugs - once you've loosened the plug with a regular socket, use a piece of 3/8" hose to remove / insert the plugs. The hose fits neatly over the ceramic of the plug.

Swap in a X-member from the R31, and then any of the RB engines bolt in. Or you could try the L20ET, which will take the turbine off a RB20DET.

Solution = helicoil. Any decent workshop should know about them.

Read somewhere that "racing plug" is a load of crap. A spark plug is a spark plug. The Bs are a different overall length - only a matter of mms. Have a look up on the ngk site - www.ngk.com.au

To remove spark plugs: Step 1 remove engine:p seriously, 1. remove inlet pipe from throttle body 2a. remove PCV hose between rockers. 2. remove cover plate (between rocker covers) 3. Unplug coil packs 4. Remove bolts holding coilpack frames in position. 5. Lift coilpacks up off sparkplugs. 6. Find you have the wrong spark plug socket, put it all back together, go get the right socket (smallish one), come home, pull it all apart again. 7. remove sparkplugs I would start with (NGK) heat range 6, gapped down to 0.9mm. Since you're using coppers - dirt cheap - you can afford to have a couple of sets, so you could try a set of 7s later. Not sure of the (NGK) part number, but its been mentioned numerous times in various posts - have a search.

$2300 - you could probably get a VR4 engine for that price!