blind_elk

If its anything like the old L-series seals, its just a rubber thingy. Should just pop off, even with the valve in place (springs removed, of course). You're sure the seals are still in place? You're not trying to remove part of the valve guide or something?

Have a chat to Tony at IdealSeat (Moorabbin / Melbourne) - 03 9555 7788

Opened it up yesterday - it seems to confirm my suspicions that its actually for a CA18, it has 4 different-size slots cut in the disc, suggesting that its telling the ECU where each of 4 cylinders is.

Does it misfire if you rev it (hold, say 2000rpm) in neutral, or only while you are driving?

Check the connection onto the CAS

Rick over at Traction Tyres was bringing in a 1/2 cut RB25DET from NZ for his race car. Might want to ask him nicely if he's willing to sell the A/C compressor to you (obviously doesn't need it for the race car).

Not yet

Why do you need a turbo timer? What's wrong with slowing up and coming off boost for a few minutes before arriving at where you're going? And the turbo timer is totally unrelated to the 180 speed limiter. As for an alarm, I got a Black Widow from Strathfield - I think it was around $150, but that might have been because it was an upgrade (previous one pooped itself after the car was off the road for 3 months). It does most things - auto immobilise, 4-point entry protection, battery-backup alarm, keyless entry.

Well, may have spoken too soon. Last night and this morning - same crap. Stumped if I can work out what's happening. I did have a problem where the A/C clutch would engage all by itself - maybe that's still happening, it would certainly load up the engine.

Well, I may have partially solved the problem. I replaced the adjustable cam gear (never had it properly set up) with the factory wheel. Engine didn't misbehave nearly as badly this morning, but there was still a slight problem present. I am getting a brand new second hand AFM soon, so I'll see if that eliminates the problem.

According to the NGK site, about 20 ft/lb - cold.

The only time you should have noticed the O2 sensor was faulty would be on 'cruise' (constatnt throttle, constant speed). On a WOT ie accelerating, which most dyno runs are, the O2 sensor would be out of the equation. Nissan programs the ECU to run rich-as on WOT. So its possible the dyno operator was having a lend of you. I have replaced mine - for a different reason - and it cost about $150 from Nissan (its a NGK unit, so you might try contacting NGK).

Maybe try someone like SSS Automotive.

Adam, Did you get the stuff I faxed to U?

Have a look underneath the throttle body (rear side), I think you will find the CSV there.

A mate had a similar problem in his 34 GT-R. Turned out to be a cracked piston. On high boost, the boost would force its way past the piston and pressurise the sump and spray the contents into the catch can and out all over the engine bay. Expensive engine rebuild solved the problem.

I have a spare, which I got for the R32, but its got a different plug. You're welcome to try it. (It might be for a CA18DET though).

2rismo, its a relatively new filter. all you other guys, I figure its mixture related, but why?. It shouldn't do it at all. There's a distinct change in the note of what I think is the air induction when these episodes hit. Its bloody annoying when you're halfway out into the main road and the power just dies under your foot. Then you end up almost 'kangarooing' as it cuts in and out.

If its anything like the RB20, then you basically need to remove the top half to get the manifold off the head. You may need to remove things like the fuel filter so you can get an arm / hand under the manifold to undo the bolts.

I think its a good days work (for one person) to remove the head. (it took me 2 easy days when I blew a head gasket) I'm dubious on the bent valve theory - wouldn't you see the lifter stay down if the valve underneath it was bent and not coming all the way back into the seat? Sounds more like the valve head has broken off, but I'm only guessing here. Can you stick one of those magnetic probes down the spark plug hole and see if you can pick anything up? If there's no compression, its almost certain you're going to have to lift the head to see what went wrong.

Here's the rub. When the engine (RB20DET) is cold, and you're driving along very gently, then suddenly the engine goes into premature labour. Its like someone's standing on the brakes. Either put up with it for a few seconds and it clears itself, or change the throttle position, and it goes away for a short time. It might do this perhaps 10 - 20 times until the engine fully warms up. Once the engine is fully warmed up, it doesn't seem to do it any more. Although it could be that I'm driving it a bit harder by then. It seemed to be also related to throttle postion - more throttle could clear it for a while - , so I changed to a spare TPS, but this morning it still did it. Often it happens at around the 2500 rpm, which suggests the AFM. So, what I'm after is for someone who has a known good AFM to swap with me for a few days so that I can confrim / rule out the AFM as the cause of this bloody annoyance. Please PM me if you can help out. Thanks

Sorry to be a spoiled sport, but the description of the damage sounds like you hauled some serious ass around the corner. Its never pleasant when you have a crash (it wasn't an "accident"), and I hope you learned something from the whole ordeal. And I'm relieved no-one was injured.

Yes, talk to Rick @ Traction

inark, how come there's so many BMWs on the list of cars that are restricted to P-platers? Even the humble 4.1 Cortina (capacity limit).

Check the Yellow Pages under "Fuel Injection". There are probably listings for people who come to you. Get them ultra-sonc cleaned first, the run Nulon, or STP(?) was another good one, at regular intervals. Reminds me, must dump some in next tankful.