blind_elk

Where did that come from?Anyway, NIZ30, if you're running the standard turbo (a T3 derivative), at 1.5 bar, then you've been extremely lucky. The ceramic wheels are notorious for parting company with the shaft when run at much above .9 bar, and are often then ingested backwards into the engine. And the ceramic material is a wonderful cylinder honer.

No, I don't believe they will. Unless you have a couple of years of club-level motorsport under your belt.Generally, you are expected to have done their basic car control course, then defensive driving course before you can tackle the hipo course. inark, have you considered the John Bowe course?

$890 :eek: Steve did mine for a couple hundred, I supplied the pipework (just plain mild steel mandrel bend exhaust pipe, 2" I seem to recall). For $890, I'd expect to get the IC as well.

I had mine (a Race Rads unit) fitted up at Speed Technology in Mitcham - talk to Steve on 9873 5400

There should be a loop of wire near the igniter. A conventional timing light will work off that (may not be accurate, but will at least give a signal). I know its a bastard, but you want the engine to start, don't you? You have to do stuff to track down where the problem is. You're absolutely sure the fuel lines are connected the right way round. Disconnect the return line and check if fuel comes out when the pump is working.

It means intermittently there's a problem with the 4WD system. In the boot, in the RH corner, behind the lining, there's a fluid reservoir. Check the fluid level is between the marks (check with engine running). Takes auto-trans fluid. Otherwise, there's a faulty earth contact (maybe, have fun finding that one!). But I would lay money on the fluid reservoir.

I've generally found that once a shock starts to pass its use-by date, the ride becomes quite harsh - when you hit even the smallest of bumps, you get a sharp jarring through the suspension. Checkout Whiteline for some new shocks.

The JPNZ Workshop Manual is around $150. My understanding is that copyright exists by virtue of the fact that the document exists. There does not need to be any explicit statement on the document to say it is copyright.

The alarm solenoid 'piggybacks' the normal central locking. Its simply held in place by a screw that locks onto the existing arm. Sometimes the screw works loose. Pull the trim off the driver's door and reset the alarm solenoid.

1. Check fuel pump is working (during cranking). Should be able to feel the fuel line pulsating during cranking. 2. Injector can be heard during cranking. 3. Ignition a) tacho needle flickers during cranking? B) hook up a timing light and check flashes during cranking. c) as I suggested previously, pull a coil pack and insert a plug, check if it actually sparks. After that, FIIK.

I'm not so sure the people who spent a lot of time and money transalating and printing the manual would appreciate that. Haven't we heard about copyright? You can afford a $20k car, surely you can afford $40 -$50 for a manual.

The Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club will be holding its annual concourse at Southbank on Sunday Dec 1. The club has been able to secure from Nissan Australia, the gold 350Z that has been on display at various motor shows around Australia to have on display with members' cars. And beside it will be a 'new' fully restored original 240Z. All SAU members welcome to come a drool. Cars on display from approx 9am to 4pm.

Its a good idea to make sure you can get oil pressure before you actually start a new engine - don't want to run those nice new bearings without any lubrication, now, do we? OK, back to the problem at hand. Pull all the coil packs, stick a spark plug in each, and crank the engine - see if each plug is sparking. If it sparking, then its obviously somewhere else. Maybe pull all the injectors and check that they spray fuel while you crank the engine. Meanwhile, I'll check out the manual tonight and get a list of "My engine won't start" solutions.

The oil has possibly come from the rocker covers. Fitting an oil/air separator can solve this (have a search at www.autospeed.com, they have a couple of articles). The exhaust studs break because of differential expansion in the manifold. You will probably have to remove the turbo and manifold to fix. So while the turbo is out, may as well have it modded. I had a T3/T4 hybrid built - about $1700 from memory (in Melb tho, probably dearer in Syd)

Once again (and seeing as you're in Templestowe, he'll be relatively handy), Steve Newing at Speed Technology 9873 5400, www.efihardware.com. He's in Mitcham.

Its not a difference between good (competent) and bad (incompetent). It seems to be more of a difference between good (sensible) and bad (fn di(khead) that we're dealing with here.

AAC = Auxilliary Air Control (don't people read posts around here? I've lost count of the number of times I've had to explain that). Its at the back of the plenum chamber. Disconnect the orange plug to see if the idle stabilises. You need to run a lower heat range number. I run a heat range 6. I think you may need to go to a heat range 5. Go to www.ngk.com.au - it has a FAQ about plugs and there is a question specifically about the heat range.

You haven't disconnected the CAS? Igniter pack is connected OK? Igniter pack has an earth - its connected? Cams are in the right position?, particulary the exhaust, since it controls the positioning of the CAS. Take the CAS out (keep it connected to the loom), take note of its position so you can put it back in the same spot. Put the key to "ON", slowly spin the CAS shaft (anti-clockwise) - you should be able to hear the coils firing. Crank the engine - you should be able to hear the injectors firing. Use a BIG screwdriver as a stethoscope if necessary. Maybe you can run a diagnostic from the ECU - presuming you are running factory ECU? BTW, did you spin the engine over and get oil pressure b4 you tried to actually start it?

"Hunting" could be the early signs of the AAC valve starting to play up. Just needs a clean. The "start" problem - I was reading last night that too-cold a plug can cause cold-start problems.

That doesn't seem to stop the majority of tossers out there who have them on their cars.

Dumb question, but didn't the R31s have a live rear axle? How does HICAS work on a live rear axle?

Sure you don't have the spot / fog lamps on? That would be a reason I might flash you.

They still have to be calibrated against something, same as scales are calibrated against known weights. If the calibration 'standard' is wrong, then the dyno is wrong. Also, depends on the ramping they use to release the load, and the gear its run in, temperature compensation, and other variables. Nismo_Freak, The 800hp would have to be flywheel HP. kw -> hp is a constant. so it puts out 440 rwkW and it puts out 600 rwHP, because the conversion factor is constant. (There are some dynos claiming to be able to calculate drive-train losses).

If the fuel pump runs all night. then the fuel pressure shouldn't drop. But it doesn't, so the pressure drops. Really got nothing to do with high school chemistry. You lose pressure because the fuel leaks back past the non-return valve in the pump. I have found it normally takes less than an hour for the pressure to drop to nothing. That's why the ECU runs the pump for about 5 secs before you start - to get fuel pressure back into the lines. The fuel is always in liquid form. The car won't run on fuel vapour. (Except LPG, before any smarty pants attack me). If you were old enough to have owned a car with carbies, then you'd know that to be the case.

I'm not talking about 1st time offenders, I'm talking habitual / repeat DUIs - like that the sphincter of the universe you've got over there in the West (ACA the other night). Despite being a repeat DUI, he still has his car. He just doesn't have a licence. Suspending their licence doesn't stop them driving, and it doesn't stop them driving drunk. LOCK THE BASTARDS AWAY (IMHO) so they can't continue to not learn the lesson we are trying to teach them. Or at least confiscate his car so he can't drive it for a while.