blind_elk

Let's see now. Firstly, I would confirm that the 87dB is within the limits for ANY car exhaust noise. Then, ask Subaru what the ex-factory level is. (Don't mention the fact that 3dB increase is a doubling of the sound, let them point that out.) The main defence for you would be the officer's ability to accuratley determine the 'loudness' of the exhaust. The human ear is not the most accurate measuring device, and as previously mentioned, 3dB change is double / half the sound level. As you have suggested, a noticeable amount is a subjective evaluation. In the absence of a standard MY99 WRX available to make a side-by-side comparison with, there is really no way that such a subjective test could be valid. Therefore, the issue of the infringement was invalid. Above all, when putting your case, be nice, so as not to put the police off-side.

GTS4 is the same as a GTSt - the offset is +38 Don't know about the GT-R, other than they are wider wheels to begin with.

Monash Council recycling station on Ferntree Gully Rd accepts old oil and batteries. Costs a couple $, but better for the environment.

Massive 76rwkW @ 5100. Don't have torque, dyno reported 'tractive effort', which I think is different. Might produce a bit more if you opened up the turbo, eg RB20DET BB, which mine is getting.

I had one in a 240Z. I'll see if I can dig out the dyno run tonight. But don't expect massive numbers, 80 or so RWkW from memory.

Try Performance Exhaust . They're in Ringwood, New Street. 9870 4977

inark, get a street directory - Dingley is almost the other side of the world You want suburbs like Burwood, Box Hill, Blackburn, Nunawading, Mitcham. Maybe Mt Waverley and Glen Waverley. They're all going to be similar rentals, I think. Not sure on theft risks though (is there such a suburb as a 'low theft risk'?) I just got the renewal papers for my R30 - $478 if I recall :eek:, well its more than last year, and I think its all in TAC fee (no such thing as NCB there).

I run mine on Synergy 8000, mainly because I have a Mobil card, but I've found it better than Optimax. A friend has a R34 GT-R (the 'Weekend Racer' from Autospeed) - Optimax used to leave a stain across the back of the car, switched to Mobil, no more stain.

check some out at www.efihardware.com

The NICS engine has variable inlet runners, the ECCS doesn't. But I'm not sure if its controlled by the ECU. Check out the latest HPI - there's an article on the NICS engine in there.

AFAIK, its a bit Model T Ford when it comes to GTS headlamps - you can have any wattage you like, as long as its 55W. (Driving lamps (high beam) will take any wattage - I'm running 100's)

Speed Technology in Mitcham, 9873 5400. Not specifically Skyline, but knows his stuff. Steve runs a Stanza Coupe Sports Sedan, with a CA18 in the passenger seat. Also had some input into Zedzilla (GT-R-powered 240Z featured a couple of times in Zoom). www.efihardware.com

I'm running 17/7.5, +38 offset, with 235/45 rubber. The main problem I wanted to avoid was catching the tyres on the inner guard at full lock, which is what prevented me trying 8s. You be the judge whether 9s will fit.

I have a hatchback version. I'm setting it up to take the L20ET that I had in my dear departed 240Z. The L20ET now has a modified RB20DET turbo on it. You can also fit the RB20, just need to change the X-member for the R31 one. I'm also planning on 15" rims, and some decent suspension (Pedders have stuff for them).

Also, do you know for certain that its nice and clean and dry around the spark plugs / coils. Bit of moisture hanging around when its cold could be shorting the spark to earth against the head.

Steve at Speed Technology in Mitcham 9873 5400

There's nothing to be gained performance-wise, other than you won't run out of fuel on a hard corner with a low fuel load. Checkout www.efihardware.com If you're already running a (factory) EFI car, then you shouldn't need one (I'm guessing your nic says you have a R34 GTt)

What in? I've heard them described as a 'de-aeration device'. Basically, they provide a constant head of fuel to the EFI pump, so that, even on a near empty tank during hard cornering, you will always have fuel available for the EFI pump. In-tank pumps have a sort of box surrounding the pump pick point. In an external setup, you have a low-pressure pump which keeps the tank supplied with fuel from the fuel tank, and also excess fuel from the rail returns to the surge tank. Any 'overflow' returns to the fuel tank. Most factory EFI cars already have them installed somewhere.

Does the engine actually turn over, or does the solenoid just click-click-click? If it does, install a relay - use the 'start' trigger wire to switch the relay, and get the relay to feed battery power to the solenoid. (you could test this by feeding power straight to the 'start' terminal on the starter motor)As for aligning your spark plugs, that is really getting serious to get the last 1/10 of a kW. And really, it can only be done with the head off, because you are trying to line the plug electrodes up so that they send the spark into the middle of the combustion chamber. Just bung in the new plugs (I'm using NGK PFR6B-11 (platinum), gapped to 1 mm), and NGK recommend 20 ft-lb tension (and that's not a lot of tension) in a cold engine.

for the brake piston, try releasing the bleed nipple to relieve the pressure. A big screwdriver or similar is usually able to force the piston(s) back - do one side at a time, then fit new pad, because pushing the opposite piston back (in) will simply push the (now) opposite piston back out. For the bolt, your local mechanic should be able to extract it with an 'e-z-out'.

Neither will the cops. Hell, they even let L-platers drive around in HSV Senators (coz there is 'technically' a fully licenced driver in charge - but not in control - of the vehicle). Its absolute BS, if it doesn't raise money, its not good for road safety.

Mine is a bit narrower than it could be, coz we thought the A/C condensor bottle (by driver's side of radiator) was going to interfere. Its about 60 - 70 mm thick, and half the height is behind the bumper bar (the steel one).

There's 3 types of people in the world, those who can count, and those who can't Got to agree about Manson's, and also Traction Tyres

Ditto.Got one built that returns along the underside, so minimal stuffing around to hook into the plumbing. From memory, $700, then couple hundred to have it fitted. ('Eric' gets all his ICs done there).

The fibregalss lower extension on my bumper had basically broken in the middle, and also had several cracks from nosing into gutters. I had it repaired by a mob that primarily builds fibreglass boats - coat of paint and it looks good as new.