blind_elk

Yes, I've put a DC thermo fan (DCSL14) on mt GTS4. It is triggered by the A/C fan which in turn is triggered by the thermal switch in the bottom tank of the radiator. I find it turns on at not much above normal operating temp. On the track, I've found that the engine actually overheats quite significantly. This may be due to the FMIC blocking air to the radiator, rather than the fan situation. I suspect I am going to have to get a couple of extra cores fitted for summer. And because of space restrictions, the fan has to be mounted and operated as a 'draw-through' rather than the more efficient 'blow-through'. The power gains are apparently minimal.

You'll know if its got an atmo-venting BOV - they're the stupid things doing the pssshhh noise on gear changes. If the engine stalls from running to idle, check: 1. the idle speed is correct 2. AAC (Auxilliary Air Control) valve is functioning correctly. One check is to disconnect the plug, see if anything happens. 3. Air-fuel ratio. Probably a crook AFM (Air Flow Meter), but try disconnecting O2 sensor, see if that changes anything. 4. Ignition components.

There is actually a little area built in the fuel tank that creates a sort of swirl pot to prevent fuel surge. Sounds like its been damaged or something, and is allowing fuel to surge away from the pump pickup. You're going to have to open up the tank to find out what's going on. I rarely do it, but I'm pretty sure I don't get any such problems even with a near empty tank.

Start at the master cylinder, apply brake pressure, then crack brake line (I can't recall if they have bleed nipples or not), make sure no air comes out. Tighten joint before letting pedal come up. Then, start at the furthest point from master (ie RL), get pressure, crack open bleed nipple, close bleed nipple, then let pedal up. Repeat a couple of times to ensure no air is coming out. Then RR, FL, FR bleed nipples. Make sure you don't empty the master reservoir

With a flush, you change ALL the fluid. This is how I did it: Basically, jack up the car, and open the bleed nipple. The fluid will just drain out (very slowly). When the master cylinder reservoir is empty, fill with the replacement fluid. Then open each nipple individually, and allow to drain until the new fluid starts coming out (obviously easier if new / old fluids are different colours). ie open LR, drain, close, open RR, drain, close, etc. Once all calipers are running new fluid, do a normal bleed to clear any air from the system.

try www.viper-motorsport.com.au in Adelaide www.uniqueautosports.com.au in Sydney(?)

That's great. Question remains - where is the air coming from?

Yes, mine tends to do it after a warm start, and only apparent at idle. Since it happens even with a full tank, perhaps hard to believe its hot fuel causing this. Had a chat with one of the guys where I got the pump, he's suggesting that with minimal clearance of the pump to the bottom of the tank (mine is set up with only 5-10 mm clearance), the pump is actually sucking itself onto the bottom of the tank. Hard to say, my X-ray vision abilities ran out many years ago.:lol:

The TPS is 2 units in one. The first bit is 2 simple on-off switches, 1 tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, the other tells the ECU that u have WOT. In between, it tells the ECU nothing. The other bit is a position SENSOR, which tells the ECU how much throttle you have applied. It is fully variable from 0 to WOT. Is it possible that the Wolf is reading the SENSOR and not the SWITCH (or vice versa)? Also, from memory of the v3.0, the Wolf ECU needs to be adjusted to tell it where 'closed' and 'WOT' are. If someone else installed it, and they agree that its the problem, then they should be making it right. The Wolf installation manual should be able to tell you if the Nissan TPS is compatible or not.

I get the same in mine. I believe its something like the returning fuel is being dumped right beside the pump, and its hot, and the pump doesn't like pumping hot fuel. I have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up, and it gives a bit of a flutter every time this noise occurs.

Wonder how they'd react to you driving the auto like a manual? ie change back to 2 for a turn, take off from lights in 1, then upshift at appropriate speeds.

Because it can't be done. R33 factory ECU can't be tampered with.

Its a while since I've done this, so here goes: Turn ignition to ON. Hold down the (A/c) OFF button for about 5 sec. I think it starts having a 'flash' attack. Use HOT / COLD buttons to move through the various diagnostic tests that it carries out. Any errors will be flashed as a number after its all over. Turn off ignition to cancel diagnostics. Advice - make sure you park the car in full sunlight to avoid error 26 (sunlight sensor).

One thing I have learned to do is, on upshifts, give a small (about 1/4 sec is more than enough) pause between gears, ie foot on clutch, out of gear to neutral, PAUSE, into next gear. Allows the synchros to mesh nicely, particularly if you've installed a short shift kit. (Totally different on the track, just rip it through!) Also, learn to heel-toe on down-changes, that should save a lot of wear-n-tear on the whole drivetrain.

The little tiny crack could do it - could open up under boost, releasing some of the already metered air. Also, might be detonation with the ECU retarding the spark (unlikely). I'd get the crack fixed.

I think you need a special timing light. The trigger is a loop of wire on the loom that plugs into the igniter module. And, yes, the base timing is 15 BTDC.

its the pair in the top right, not bottom left. Actually, simplest way to reset ECU is disconnect battery and pump brake pedal, or open door - anything that will draw a current.

Toluene = Methyl-Benzene. A search of the net uncovered that it is not on the NIOSH carcinogen list, but it adversely affects the central nervous system.

why not confine your racing to the track, that way you really don't need a launch technique. You don't need to know double-clutching, but you should know heel-toeing - on down-changes, use the side of your braking foot to blip the throttle while the clutch is in. Saves wear and tear on the drivetrain, and reduces risk of compression lockup.

You can't use the 'I shouldhave left it under the pedals' argument. Simple rebuttal is 'you should have pulled over immediately to rectify the situation'. The only complaint you might have is that they have totally ignored your complaint regarding the attitude of the officer(s) involved. I think you should stress that as being the primary intention of your original letter. Forget about WHY they pulled you over, concentrate on what they did after they pulled you over.

I have a similar problem with my R32. The gauge can't make up its mind how much fuel is in the tank. I'm beginning to wonder if its something to do with voltage. Older cars, at least, had a voltage regulator on the gauge circuit, do these modern beasts have the same setup? It could be a faulty one of those.

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The wire is probably cut at the ECU, which hides behind the kick panel in the passenger footwell.

thanks