blind_elk

I've actually had one idiot STOP in front of me on an on-ramp because there was a car coming down the freeway behind , despite there was a separate lane to get up to speed before merging was necessary.

Bleed the master cylinder first, then the slave cylinder.

That's just my point. The water is not "the same temperature", it is cooler because it has passed through the radiator and has exchanged heat with the cold air that is passing through the radiator by virtue of the fact that the car is moving.Having the fan thermostat set higher - as high as 100 - is only a problem when the car is stationary, like in peak hour stop-start traffic. But that is generally only for short periods of time - as soon as the car gets up some speed again, the water will cool down to near the thermostatted temperature, even if the thermo fan has not cut in. If you don't believe me, why not try it.

Thermo fans do not need to turn on until quite high temps, certainly more than 10 degrees above the thermostatted temperature. The fans are employed because the bulk of the cooling is covered by the fact that the car is moving and air is going through the radiator, thus cooling the engine. So why does the engine need to drive a fan if the air movement is doing the job? Having the thermo fan operating all the time or when the thermostat is open is a waste of resources, and simply shifts the load on the engine from driving a fan to driving the alternator.

I used a Stagea RB25DET in my 32 GTS4, and the stock 32 airbox/AFM matches up perfectly.

No one is suggesting that you MUST drive at 140 (if that is the limit on the particular road). But we have to get driver to respect the "keep left" road rules if a higher limit than is current is to ever happen.

Make sure you didn't bend any of the pins in the connectors when you plugged them back together.

You don't have cruise control, do you?

Had a similar thing when someone tried to steal my 32. New ignition lock cost a bit over $300! Don't know if a 31 unit will fit a 33 or not. Just have to try it, I guess.

As was the case in the 723 other threads that asked this question!

Regulator in the alternator is stuffed. If you don't get it fixed / replaced, you will continue to kill batteries.

I've just done a similar thing with a Falcon. Take the details (VIN / Eng No.) to a Vicroads office, they will confirm that it exists on the system. If so, you won't need to present the car, just get a RWC then pay the registration / transfer / Plates fees.

I think it was a problem with the plug being partially disconnected.

Firstly, having the thermo running 100% of the time is basically defeating the purpose for having a thermo. It only needs to run when the temp gets too high - and by too high, I mean 10 or more over thermostated temp. The general problem I have found is getting air to flow through the radiator. It is too easy for air to simply travel down the front of the radiator and out underneath the car. Is the fan turning in the correct direction, ie pulling air through the radiator? And it probably wouldn't hurt to get the radiator cleaned and serviced, particularly as it's second hand.

While it's a great idea, it won't work for a couple of reasons. Firstly as already stated, most drivers seem incapable of driving safely within the current 100 / 110 kph speed limit. How on earth are they expected to cope with 140? Not until there is a radical improvement in testing and skill levels of drivers will it be possible to consider raising the speed limit to 140. Secondly, many drivers seem to think it their God-given right to drive in the right hand lane on divided highways, like the Hume. Combined with the inability to drive at 100 / 110 kph, such behaviour will undoubtedly anger those drivers both capable of driving and willing to drive at the much higher speed. This is what contributes more to crashes than the actual speed involved. Not until "keep left unless overtaking" is rigorously enforced and drivers get over this "I can drive in whatever lane I like" mentality, it will be difficult to implement a 140 limit. Speed doesn't kill, it is inappropriate speed that kills.

From memory, and strange as it seems, the problem is with the TPS.

If some PoS hadn't stolen my R30, I could have helped you (the full workshop manual was in the car when stolen).

Gee, you've got a Recaro seat. How about asking Recaro - 10 Bignell Rd Moorabbin 95557788 (yellowpages is your friend!) You can also modify (redrill holes) a Bride seat mount adapter. Not sure where you can get those.

No, the ATTESSA will behave itself. (and you could have found the answer in any number of threads which deal with this phenomenon)

Did you fit heavier power and earth cables for the relocated battery? Skylines are notoriously sensitive to voltage (or lack of it). You may be draining too much power through a "small" cable during the start process, which requires a large recharge rate to get the battery back to "normal". The ECUs see this high charge rate as an error, and pack a wobbly.

Not even necessary to wait 20 seconds. The oil will be circulating within a few revolutions of the engine actually starting (don't forget you've been pumping oil while cranking to start). Simply start engine, into gear and away you go. Every second that you delay is wasting fuel, and the excess fuel delivered while the engine is cold is risking dilution / thinning of the oil.

How old is the battery?

@90% humidity, you effectively have a form of water injection, useful for preventing detonation. Now that the air is dry, that water injection has gone, you no longer have the protection against detonation. Try backing a couple of degrees out of the timing.

How about just asking the question in ONE area.

What ever happened to the group I organised a couple of years ago?